porcupine mountains CHINESE To its legion of fans, the wait at this dive sometimes up to an hour is worth what s on the

CHINESE To its legion of fans, the wait at this dive sometimes up to an hour is worth what s on the plate. When the line is reasonable, I drop by for a plate of potstickers and chef-owner Peter Fang s signature shrimp-and-green-onion pancake, served with peanut sauce. You can select from a good number of pork, rice, beef, seafood, chicken, or vegetable porcupine mountains dishes, but I suggest you trust the waiter when he recommends a special, or simply point to what looks good on someone else s table. Even with an expansion that doubled the space, seating is tight, so prepare to be bumped around a bit and don t expect good service it s all part of the Nanking experience. 919 Kearny St. (at Columbus Ave.). & 415/421-1429. Reservations accepted for groups of 8 or more. Main courses $6 $12. MC, V. Mon Fri 11am 10pm; Sat Sun noon 10pm. Bus: 9, 12, 15, or 30.

In addition to the major carriers listed earlier in this section, several airlines provide service within the state, including American Eagle (& 800/ 433-7300), Southwest (& 800/4359792), United Express (& 800/2416522), and US Airways Express (& 800/428-4322). The round-trip fare between Los Angeles and San Francisco ranges from $79 to $200. See Orientation or Getting There in each city s chapter for further information.

It s a ridiculously popular excursion porcupine mountains and space is limited, so purchase tickets as far in advance as possible. The tour is operated by Blue & Gold Fleet (& 415/705-5555; www.blueandgoldfleet.com) and can be charged to American Express, MasterCard, or Visa ($2.25 per ticket service charge on phone orders). You can also buy tickets in advance from the Blue & Gold ticket office on Pier 41 or online at www.telesales.com. Wear comfortable shoes and take a heavy sweater or windbreaker even when the sun s out, it s cold. The National Park Service also notes that there are a lot of steps to climb on the tour.

San Francisco s temperate marine climate means relatively mild weather year-round. In summer, temperatures porcupine mountains rarely top 70 F (21 C; pack sweaters, even in Aug), and the city s famous fog rolls in most mornings and evenings. In winter the mercury seldom falls below freezing, and snow is almost unheard of. Because of the fog, summer rarely sees more than a few hot days in a row. Head a few miles inland, though, and it s likely to be clear and hot.