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From the Cliff House, vamoose bus the Esplanade continues south along the 4-mile-long Ocean Beach, which is not suitable for swimming. At the southern end of Ocean Beach is another area of the park around Fort Funston where there s an easy loop trail across the cliffs (for information, call the ranger station at & 415/239-2366). Here, too, you can watch the hang gliders taking advantage of the high cliffs and strong winds.

For golfers, there s Half Moon Bay Golf Links, 2000 Fairway Dr., at the south end of Half Moon Bay next to the Half Moon Bay Lodge (& 650/7264438; www.halfmoonbaygolf.com). vamoose bus Designed by Arnold Palmer, the ocean-side 18-hole course has been rated among the top 100 courses in the country, as well as the best in the Bay Area. Greens fees range from $145 to $170. Reserve your tee time as far in advance as possible.

Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can t. The general vamoose bus rule is that sharp things are out, nail clippers vamoose bus are okay, and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine. Bring food in your carry-on rather than checking it, as explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate, for some reason) for bombs. Travelers in the U.S. are allowed one carry-on bag, plus a personal item such as a purse, briefcase, or laptop bag. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, it s still considered a personal item. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items; check its web- site (www.tsa.gov/public/index.jsp) for details. vamoose bus