callaway gardens The granddaddy of Nob Hill s ritzy hotels, the Fairmont wins top honors for the most awe-inspiring l

The granddaddy of Nob Hill s ritzy hotels, the Fairmont wins top honors for the most awe-inspiring lobby in San Francisco. Even if you re not staying here, it s worth a trip to gape at its massive marble columns, vaulted ceilings, velvet chairs, gilded mirrors, and spectacular wraparound staircase. Thanks to an $85-million renovation in 2001, the glamour carries to guest rooms where everything is new, opulent, and in good taste. In addition to the expected luxuries, you ll find goose-down pillows, electric shoe buffers, walk-in closets, and multiline phones with voice mail. Whatever you do, try to visit the Tonga Room, a fantastically kitschy tropical bar and restaurant where happy hour hops and rain falls every 20 minutes. 950 Mason St. (at California St.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/441-1414 or 415/772-5000. Fax 415/391-4833. www.fairmont.com. 591 units. Main building $289 $409 double; from $500 suite. Tower $269 $359 double; from $800 suite. Extra person $30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $39. Cable car: California St. line (direct stop). Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; health club ($15 daily); concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; wireless Internet in lobby. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and PlayStation, fax, dataport, kitchenette in some units, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

If you re considering travel by rail along the California coast, or even as far north as Seattle, treat yourself to a ride aboard Amtrak s luxurious Coast Starlight. In an effort to recapture the glory days of 1940s Streamline luxury liners, Amtrak has pulled out all the stops on these double- decker Superliners, complete with a gourmet dining car, first-class and coach lounge cars, standard and deluxe sleeping compartments, and enough diversions (including feature-length films, live entertainment, games for kids and adults, and a full bar) to make the 35-hour trip a pleasure. All sleeping-car fares include three meals daily, prepared onboard with an emphasis on regional flavor, and wines from Washington, Oregon, and California, as well as seasonal specials from along the Coast Starlight s route.

Lake Merritt is Oakland s primary tourist attraction, along with Jack London Square (see below). Three and a half miles in circumference, the tidal lagoon was bridged and dammed in the 1860s and is now a refuge that s home to flocks of migrating ducks, callaway gardens herons, and geese. The 122-acre Lakeside Park, a popular place to picnic, to feed the ducks, and to escape the fog, surrounds it on three sides.

1 Ferry Plaza (at Embarcadero and Market). & 415/861-8032. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $8.50 $16; most dinner callaway gardens dishes $9 $27. AE, MC, V. Mon Sun 11:30am 2:30pm; Sun Thurs 5:30 10pm; Fri Sat 5:30 10:30pm. Streetcar: F or N. Bus: All Market St. buses.