aliante station San Francisco Reservations, 360 22nd St., Suite 300, Oakland, CA 94612 (& 800/677-1500 or 510/628-44

VISAS The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program allowing citizens of certain countries aliante station to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days. At press time these included Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Citizens of these countries need only a valid passport and a round-trip air or cruise ticket in their possession aliante station upon arrival. If they first enter the United States, they may also visit Mexico, Canada, Bermuda, and/or the Caribbean islands and return to the United States without a visa. Further information is available from any U.S. embassy or consulate. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they need only proof of residence.

San Francisco Reservations, 360 22nd St., Suite 300, Oakland, CA 94612 (& 800/677-1500 or 510/628-4450; www.hotelres.com), arranges reservations at more than 300 of San Francisco s hotels and often offers discounted rates.

Fort Mason Center occupies an area from Bay Street to the shoreline and consists of several buildings and piers, which were used during World War II. Today they re occupied by a variety of museums, theaters, aliante station and organizations, as well as by Greens Restaurant (p. 104), which affords views of the Golden Gate Bridge. For information on Fort Mason Center events, call & 415/441-5706.

stratosphere Halloween, San Francisco. The City by the Bay celebrates with a fantastic parade starting at Market

Chestnut and Union Street bars attract a post-collegiate crowd. Young alternatives frequent Mission District haunts. Upper Haight caters to eclectic neighborhood cocktailers. Lower Haight stratosphere is skate- and snowboarder grungy. Tourists mix with theatergoers stratosphere and thirsty businesspeople in downtown pubs. North Beach serves all types. Castro caters to gay locals and tourists. South of Market (SoMa) offers an eclectic mix. BARS WITH DJ GROOVES Bambuddha Lounge Finds The hottest place for the young and the trendy to feast, flirt, or just be fabulous stratosphere is this restaurant/bar adjoining the funky-cool Phoenix Hotel. With a 20-foot reclining Buddha on the roof, ultramodern SanFrancisco- meets-Southeast-Asian decor (including waterfalls in the dining room.

Halloween, San Francisco. The City by the Bay celebrates with a fantastic parade starting at Market and Castro, and a mixed gay-straight crowd revels in costumes of extraordinary imagination. October 31.

Boulevard Finds AMERICAN Master restaurant designer Pat Kuleto and chef Nancy Oaks are behind stratosphere one of my and the city s all-time favorites. What s the winning stratosphere combination? The dramatic stratosphere Belle Epoque interior combined with Oaks s mouthwatering dishes. Starters alone could make a perfect meal, especially the sweetbreads stratosphere wrapped in prosciutto on watercress and Lola Rose lettuce with garlic croutons and a whole-grain mustard vinaigrette; and Sonoma foie gras with elderberry syrup, toast, and Bosc-pear salad. The main courses are equally creative and might include pan-roasted miso-glazed stratosphere sea bass with asparagus salad, Japanese rice, and shiitake-mushroom broth, or spit-roasted cider- cured pork loin with sweet-potato swirled mashed potatoes and saut ed baby red chard. Vegetarian items, such as wild-mushroom risotto with fresh chanterelles and Parmesan, are also offered. Three levels of formality bar, open kitchen, and main dining room keep things from getting too snobby.

The San Mateo County Transit system, SamTrans (& 800/660-4287 stratosphere in Northern California, or 650/508-6200; www.samtrans.com), runs two buses between the airport and the Transbay Terminal at First and Mission streets. The no. 292 bus costs $1.25 and makes the trip in about 55 minutes. The KX bus costs $3.50 and takes only 35 minutes but permits only one carry-on bag. Both buses run daily. The no. 292 starts at 5:27am, stratosphere and the KX starts at 6:03am. Both run frequently until 8pm, then hourly until about midnight.

disneyland pass Famed humorist and storyteller Mark Twain penned vivid tales during California s Gold Rush era, incl

Famed humorist and storyteller Mark Twain penned vivid tales during California s Gold Rush era, including one of his most popular works, The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County (an annual Gold Country competition that still has legs). Other good gold-rush reads include Bret Harte s The Luck of Roaring Camp, a sentimental tale of hard-luck miners and their false toughness, and J. S. Holliday s The World Rushed In, one of the finest nonfiction accounts of the Gold Rush still in print.

A CHURCH Glide Memorial United Methodist Church Moments There would be nothing special about this Tenderloin-area church if it weren t for its pastor, Cecil Williams. Williams s enthusiastic and uplifting preaching and singing with the homeless and poor of the neighborhood crosses all socioeconomic boundaries and has attracted national disneyland pass fame. Go for an exhilarating experience.

callaway gardens The granddaddy of Nob Hill s ritzy hotels, the Fairmont wins top honors for the most awe-inspiring l

The granddaddy of Nob Hill s ritzy hotels, the Fairmont wins top honors for the most awe-inspiring lobby in San Francisco. Even if you re not staying here, it s worth a trip to gape at its massive marble columns, vaulted ceilings, velvet chairs, gilded mirrors, and spectacular wraparound staircase. Thanks to an $85-million renovation in 2001, the glamour carries to guest rooms where everything is new, opulent, and in good taste. In addition to the expected luxuries, you ll find goose-down pillows, electric shoe buffers, walk-in closets, and multiline phones with voice mail. Whatever you do, try to visit the Tonga Room, a fantastically kitschy tropical bar and restaurant where happy hour hops and rain falls every 20 minutes. 950 Mason St. (at California St.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/441-1414 or 415/772-5000. Fax 415/391-4833. www.fairmont.com. 591 units. Main building $289 $409 double; from $500 suite. Tower $269 $359 double; from $800 suite. Extra person $30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $39. Cable car: California St. line (direct stop). Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; health club ($15 daily); concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; wireless Internet in lobby. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and PlayStation, fax, dataport, kitchenette in some units, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

If you re considering travel by rail along the California coast, or even as far north as Seattle, treat yourself to a ride aboard Amtrak s luxurious Coast Starlight. In an effort to recapture the glory days of 1940s Streamline luxury liners, Amtrak has pulled out all the stops on these double- decker Superliners, complete with a gourmet dining car, first-class and coach lounge cars, standard and deluxe sleeping compartments, and enough diversions (including feature-length films, live entertainment, games for kids and adults, and a full bar) to make the 35-hour trip a pleasure. All sleeping-car fares include three meals daily, prepared onboard with an emphasis on regional flavor, and wines from Washington, Oregon, and California, as well as seasonal specials from along the Coast Starlight s route.

Lake Merritt is Oakland s primary tourist attraction, along with Jack London Square (see below). Three and a half miles in circumference, the tidal lagoon was bridged and dammed in the 1860s and is now a refuge that s home to flocks of migrating ducks, callaway gardens herons, and geese. The 122-acre Lakeside Park, a popular place to picnic, to feed the ducks, and to escape the fog, surrounds it on three sides.

1 Ferry Plaza (at Embarcadero and Market). & 415/861-8032. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $8.50 $16; most dinner callaway gardens dishes $9 $27. AE, MC, V. Mon Sun 11:30am 2:30pm; Sun Thurs 5:30 10pm; Fri Sat 5:30 10:30pm. Streetcar: F or N. Bus: All Market St. buses.

connex 340 Stockton St. (between Post and Sutter sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/235-4300 or 415/781-

Each winter, pods of California gray whales making their annual migration to breeding lagoons at the southern tip of Baja pass close by California shores. If you ve ever been lucky enough to spot one of these graceful behemoths, you ll understand why whale-watching is such an eagerly anticipated activity. From December to March you can view this great parade from land or sea. Recommended spots include Point Reyes National Seashore (& 415/669-1534), where a historic lighthouse offers whale- and elephant-seal viewing; Monterey Peninsula, where January s WhaleFest (& 831/644-7588) celebrates these mammals from the Monterey Aquarium down through Big Sur; and San Diego s Cabrillo National Monument (& 619/557-5450; www.nps. gov/cabr), which offers a glassed-in observatory and educational whale exhibits.

Lake St. Clement St. Geary Blvd. Lincoln Way Irving St. Judah St. Lawton St. Judah St. Noriega St. Taraval St. 43rd Ave. 36th Ave. 34th Ave. 30th Ave. 25th Ave. 25th Ave. California St. 19th Ave. 10th Ave. 8th Ave. 6th Ave. Park Presidio connex Blvd. Sunset Blvd. 46th Ave. Arguello Blvd. LINCOLN PARKLINCOLN PARK GOLDEN GATE PARKGOLDEN GATE PARK THE PRESIDIOTHE PRESIDIO LINCOLN PARK Golden Gate Bridge Irving St. Fulton St. 9th Ave. 7th Ave GOLDEN GATE NATIONAL RECREATIONAL AREA GOLDEN GATE PARK Great Highway Baker Beach China Beach Ocean Beach Cliff House LincolnBlvd. Arguello Blvd. SUNSET DISTRICT RICHMOND DISTRICT THE PRESIDIO 101 PACIFIC OCEAN 1 1 1 Point LobosAve. ParnassusAve. DeweyBlvd. LagunaHonda Blvd. WoodsideAve. connex WarrenDr. John F.KennedyDr. Clarendon CrissyCrissy 1 mi 1 km 0 0 N Sacramento San Francisco connex Los Angeles CALIFORNIA

BY TRAIN International visitors (excluding Canada) can also buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 15 or 30 days of unlimited connex travel on Amtrak (& 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak. com). The pass is available through many overseas travel agents. Prices in 2004 for a 15-day pass were $295 off peak, $440 peak; a 30-day pass costs $385 off peak, $550 peak. With a foreign passport, you can also buy passes at some Amtrak offices in the United States, including locations in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, New

340 Stockton St. (between Post and Sutter sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/235-4300 or 415/781-5555. Fax 415/955-5536. www.camptonplace.com. 110 units. $345 $475 double; $550 $2,000 suite. American breakfast $17. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking $35. Cable car: Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines (1 block west). Bus: 2, 3, 4, 30, or 45. Amenities: Restaurant; health club; concierge; courtesy car; secretarial services; 24-hr. room service; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe, T1 line.

hiltonhonors THE CENTRAL COAST If you re headed to the coastal minitown of Cambria, the rustic, secluded cabins a

Great last-minute deals are available through free weekly e-mail services provided directly by the airlines. Most of these are announced on Tuesday or Wednesday and must be purchased online. Most are only valid for travel that weekend, but some (such as Southwest hiltonhonors s) can be booked weeks or months in advance. Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts at airline websites or check megasites that compile comprehensive lists of last-minute specials, such as Smarter Living (www.smarter living.com). For last-minute trips, site59.com hiltonhonors often has better deals than the major-label sites.

THE CENTRAL COAST If you re headed to the coastal minitown of Cambria, the rustic, secluded cabins hiltonhonors and an awesome Olympic-size pool are two good reasons to stay at the Cambria Pines Lodge, 2905 Burton Dr. (& 800/445-6868), and the lobster bisque alone is worth a trip to Cambria s Bistro Sol , 1980 Main St. (& 805/927-0887).

shedd aquarium Baker Beach, a small, beautiful strand outside the Golden Gate, isn t the best place for swimming du

Baker Beach, a small, beautiful strand outside the Golden Gate, isn t the best place for swimming due to strong currents, but it s great for sunning, walking, or fishing. It s wonderful to sit here on a sunny day and take in the view of the bridge. You ll climb down a long flight of stairs from the street to the beach.

MODERATE The Slanted Door Finds VIETNAMESE This restaurant is so popular that Mick Jagger and former President Clinton made stopovers when they hit town. Why? The restaurant serves incredibly fresh and flavorful Vietnamese food. No doubt it s even more of a hot spot since its April 2004 relocation to its spacious bay-inspired custom-designed space in the Ferry Building Marketplace. Make a reservation to pull up a chair and order anything from clay-pot catfish or amazing green papaya salad to one of the lunch rice dishes, which come in a large ceramic bowl and are topped with such options as grilled shrimp and stir- fried eggplant. Dinner items, which change seasonally, might include beef with garlic shedd aquarium and organic onions, grapefruit, shedd aquarium and j cama salad. Whatever you order, it s bound to be wholesome, flavorful, and outstanding. There s also an eclectic collection of teas, which come by the pot for $3 to $5.

skytop lodge and outdoor poolside cocktail lounge), very affordable and above-average Pan- Asian cuisine served l

Above all, Sausalito has scenery and sunshine, for once you cross the Golden Gate Bridge, you re out of the San Francisco fog patch and under blue California sky (I hope). Almost all the tourist action, which is basically limited to window- shopping and eating, takes place at sea level on Bridgeway.

Of the endless array of trinket shops scattered through the neighborhood, two worth noting are Eastwind skytop lodge Books & Arts, 1435 Stockton St., at Columbus Avenue (& 415/772-5877 Chinese department, or 415/772-5899), which carries an incredible selection of Chinese books, stationery, and stamps, as well as Asian-American and English books covering everything skytop lodge from health and cooking to martial arts and medicine. At Ten Ren Tea Company, 949 Grant Ave., between Washington and Jackson streets (& 415/362-0656), you can enjoy a steaming cup of roselle tea, made of black tea and hibiscus, while you browse the selection of almost 50 traditional and herbal teas and related paraphernalia.

and outdoor poolside cocktail lounge), very affordable and above-average skytop lodge Pan- Asian cuisine served late into the eve and topping out at $15, and a state-of-theart sound system streaming ambient, down-tempo, hip-hop, funk, and house music, this is the it joint of the moment. 601 Eddy St. (at Polk St.). & 415/885-5088. www.bambuddhalounge.com.

jtb The park is made up of hundreds of gardens and attractions linked by wooded paths and roads. While m

The park is made up of hundreds of gardens and attractions linked by wooded paths and roads. While many sites worth seeing are clearly visible, the park has infinite hidden treasures, so make your first stop the McLaren Lodge and Park Headquarters (& 415/831-2700) if you want detailed information on the park.

You can get an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information jtb Service jtb at & 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au. Passports for adults are A$144 and for those under 18 A$72.

ddot bus schedule Travel + Leisure, Food & Wine, Bride s, Wine Country Living, San Francisco Magazine, Los Angeles Mag

your film for the bottom, where, if you re lucky, you can find a parking space and take a few snapshots of the spectacle. You can also take staircases (without curves) up or down on either side of the street.

Kids AMERICAN Sure, it s contrived, touristy, and nowhere near healthy, but when you get that urge for a chocolate shake and banana cream pie at midnight or when you want to entertain the kids no other place comes through like Mel s Diner. Modeled after a 1950s diner, down to the jukebox at each table, Mel s harks back to the days when cholesterol and fried foods didn t jab your conscience with every greasy, wonderful bite. Too bad the prices don t reflect the 50s: A burger with fries and a Coke runs about $9.50. There s another Mel s at 3355 Geary St., at Stanyan Street (& 415/3872244); it s open Thursday through Saturday from 6am to 3am.

Travel + Leisure, Food & Wine, Bride s, Wine Country Living, San Francisco Magazine, Los Angeles Magazine, and Time Out. Her latest work is an entertaining and cooking ddot bus schedule guide called The Last-Minute Party Girl: Fashionable, Fearless, and Foolishly Simple Entertaining (www.lastminutepartygirl.com), which mixes fun, humor, and recipes into a tasty, useful guide to living large, Bay Area style.

the london west hollywood SINGAPOREAN Straits Caf is what I like to call adventure dining because you never know quite what yo

INEXPENSIVE Swan Oyster Depot Finds SEAFOOD Swan Oyster Depot is a San Francisco experience you shouldn t miss. Opened in 1912, this hole-in-the-wall boasts 20 or so seats, jammed cheek-by-jowl along a marble bar. Most patrons come for a cup of chowder or a plate of oysters the london west hollywood that arrive chilling on crushed ice. The menu is limited to fresh crab, shrimp, oyster, clam cocktails, Maine lobster, and Boston-style clam chowder, all of which are exceedingly fresh. Note: Don t let the lunchtime line dissuade you it moves fast.

SINGAPOREAN Straits Caf is what I like to call adventure dining because you never know quite what you re going to get. Burlap palm trees, pastel-painted trompe l oeil houses, faux balconies, and clotheslines strung across the walls evoke a surreal image of a Singaporean village. The cuisine, however, is the real thing. Among chef Chris Yeo s spicy Malaysian-Indian- Chinese offerings are murtabak (stuffed Indian bread), chile crab, basil chicken, nonya daging rendang (beef simmered in lime leaves), ikan pangang (fish stuffed with chile paste), and, hottest of all, sambal udang (prawns saut ed in chile-shallot sambal sauce). For dessert, try the sago pudding. 3300 Geary Blvd. (at Parker St.). & 415/668-1783. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14 $22. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon Thurs noon 2:30pm and 5:30 10pm; Fri Sat noon 11pm; Sun noon 10pm. Bus: 2, 3, 4, or 38.

annenberg beach house Avoid carrying valuables with you on the street, and keep expensive cameras or electronic equipment

Avoid carrying valuables with you on the street, and keep expensive cameras or electronic annenberg beach house equipment bagged up or covered when not in use. If you re using a map, try to consult it inconspicuously or better yet, study it before you leave your room. Hold on to your pocketbook, and place your billfold in an inside pocket. In theaters, restaurants, and other public places, annenberg beach house keep your possessions in sight.

Attractions Universal Studios Hollywood (& 818/662-3801) has a new thrill ride called Revenge of the Mummy, a super-high-tech indoor rollercoaster with creepy animatronic Warrior Mummies that drop down and scare the heck out of you. Six Flags Magic Mountain (& 661/2554500) beefed up their ride selection with Scream!, a coaster where riders are strapped into a flying chair and raced upside down at 65 mph.

jet star p. 473. Beverly Hills Hotel and Bungalows (Beverly Hills; & 800/2838885): It s well worth the heavy

p. 473. Beverly Hills Hotel and Bungalows (Beverly Hills; & 800/2838885): It s well worth the heavy hit to your credit card for the opportunity to take afternoon tea in the famous Polo Lounge next to Ozzy Osbourne, swim laps in the same pool Katharine Hepburn once dove into fully clothed, and eat pancakes in the fabled Fountain Coffee Shop. See p. 479. La Quinta Resort & Club (La Quinta; & 800/598-3828): This luxury jet star resort, set in a grove of palms at the base of the Santa Rosa Mountains, is in the midst of some of the desert jet star s best golf courses. Spanish-style cottages are surrounded by a gardenlike setting and 24 private swimming pools. The lounge and library in the original hacienda hearkens back to the early days of the resort, when Clark Gable, Greta Garbo, and other luminaries escaped to the seclusion of La Quinta. See p. 648. The Lodge at Torrey Pines (La Jolla; & 858/777-6690): You don t need to know much about Craftsman-style architecture to appreciate the taste and artistry that went into creating this luxury resort. The lodge sits next to the Torrey Pines Golf Course, and you can enjoy a fireplace in your room, sunset ocean views from your balcony, and superb meals at the hotel s A.R. Valentine restaurant. See p. 692. 10 The Best Affordable Small Hotels & Inns St. Orres (Gualala; & 707/8843303): Designed in a Russian style complete with two Kremlinesque onion-domed towers jet star St. Orres offers secluded accommodations constructed from century-old timbers jet star salvaged from a nearby mill. One of the most eye-catching inns on California s North Coast. See p. 212.

Following long-standing tradition, sailors decorate their crafts with colorful lights. Several Southern California harbors hold nighttime parades to showcase the creations, which range from tiny dinghies

usairways Automobile Organizations Auto clubs will supply maps, suggested routes, guidebooks, accident and bai

Automobile Organizations Auto clubs will supply maps, suggested routes, guidebooks, accident and bail-bond insurance, and emergency road service. The American Automobile Association (AAA) is the major auto club in the United States. If you belong to an auto club in your home country, inquire about AAA reciprocity before you leave. You may be able to join AAA even if you re not a member of a reciprocal club; to inquire, call AAA (& 800/222-4357). AAA is actually an organization of regional auto clubs; so look under AAA Automobile Club in the White Pages of the telephone directory. AAA has a nationwide emergency road service telephone number (& 800/AAA-HELP).

THE BEST PLACES TO STAY WITH THE KIDS 19 11 The Best Places to Stay with the Kids The Lost Whale Bed and Breakfast Inn (Trinidad; & 800/ 677-7859): Parents will love the beautiful inn and the outdoor spa, and kids will love the play area and the menagerie of horses, goats, and other animals down the road. It has a private beach, and it s near interesting redwood parks. Best of all, a fabulous breakfast is included. See p. 235. KOA Kamping Kabins (Point Arena; & 800/562-4188): Once you see the adorable usairways log cabins at this KOA campground, you can t help but admit that this is one cool way to spend the weekend on the coast. Rustic is the key word: mattresses, a heater, and a light bulb are the standard amenities. All you need is some bedding (or sleeping bags), cooking and eating utensils, and charcoal for the barbecue out front. See p. 215. City Hotel and Fallon Hotel (Columbia; & 800/532-1479): Some parents may roll their eyes at this preserved Gold Rush town, but it s rather remarkable, with rides on a 100-year-old stagecoach, a blacksmith shop, and lots of relics from mining. And these reasonably priced Victorian hotels dish up a great buffet breakfast. Cars are barred from the dusty main street. See p. 347. Grey Squirrel Resort (Big Bear Lake; & 800/381-5569): Like a camp for kids and adults alike, this cluster of kitchen-equipped cottages near the lake and Big Bear s village offers economical lodgings for a night or the entire season (winter or summer). Enjoy a heated, enclosed pool, barbecues, volleyball and basketball courts plus skiing, boat rental, and plenty of other family recreation. See p. 591.

Value Three words sum up this hotel: clean, colorful, and cheap. Although it s on the periphery of the gritty Tenderloin (3 blocks off Union Sq.), this 1911 hotel is cheery, bright, and perfect for the budget traveler who wants a little style, too. The hotel s age is disguised with lively usairways decor, a Deco theater theme, and a lot of vibrant paint. Off the small lobby is a theater where guests can watch San Francisco based movies nightly (on old-fashioned theater seating in front of a TV showing videos). Upstairs, rooms named after local films are small but clean and colorful (think buttercup, burgundy, and purple), and have all the basics usairways from clock radios, dressers, and small desks to tiny bathrooms. Some mattresses could be firmer and there s one small, slow elevator. 111 Mason St., San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/771-1022 or 415/771-1200. www.hotelbijou.com. 65 units. $95 $139 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $21. Metro: Powell St. station. Bus: All Market St. buses. Amenities: Concierge; limited room service; same-day laundry service/ dry cleaning. In room: TV, dataport, hair dryer, iron.

irvine regional park Last year downtown s Shannon Court got a new name Hotel Adagio, 550 Geary St. (& 800/228-8830 or 415

334 Mason St. (between Geary and O Farrell sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/288-6005 or 415/781-5050. Fax 415/835-5991. www.kinggeorge.com. 153 units. $140 double; $240 suite. Breakfast $6.50 $8. Special-value packages available seasonally. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $25; self-parking $22. Cable car: Powell-Hyde irvine regional park and Powell-Mason lines (1 block west). Bus: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 30, 38, 45, 70, or 71. Amenities: Tearoom; evening lounge/bar; access to health club 1 2 block away; concierge; 24-hr. business center; secretarial services; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry/dry cleaning; wireless Internet access in lobby. In room: TV w/pay movies and Nintendo, dataport, hair dryer, irvine regional park iron, safe, complimentary high-speed Internet access.

Last year downtown s Shannon Court got a new name Hotel Adagio, 550 Geary St. (& 800/228-8830 or 415/775-5000) and new interiors under the creative eye of the Joie de Vivre hotel group. Its restaurant and bar Cortez (& 415/292-6360)is the creation of one of the city s favorite restaurateurs, Pascal irvine regional park Rigo of Pacific

tt. Jackson St. Madison St. Oak St. Brush St. Castro St. Brush St. Castro St. ictory Ct. HarrisonSt. LakesideDr Children s airyland Preservation ark City Center City Hall The Rotunda Oakland Convention Center Asian Cultural Center Po Office Camron Stanfor House Laney College irvine regional park Amtrak erminal ack London irvine regional park Squar Greyhound Bus Depot Oakland Museum of California OLD OAKLAND CHINATOWN LAKESIDE PARK SNOW PA MADISON ARK CHINESE GARDEN LINCOLN SQUARE JEFFERSON SQUARE ESTUAR PA Lake Merritt BART 12th St./ City Center BART 19th St. BART o Bay Bridge/ San Francisco To Bay Bridge/San Francisco Fal ll onSt. Municipal Boathouse (Rentals) Alameda/ Oakland erry erminal Embarcadero oo Embarcadero oo 2nd St. 3rd St. 4th St. 5th St. 6th St. 12th St. 14th St. 15th St. 18th St. 17th St. 16th St. 11th St. 10th St. 9th St. 8th St. 7th St. 2nd St. 3rd St. 4th St. 5th St. 6th St. 12th St. 13th St. 14th St. 15th St. 11th St. 10th St. 9th St. 8th St. 7th St. 23rd St. 18th St. W

U.S. cities, it can also be slow, uncomfortable, and chock-full of nutcases certainly not an option for everyone (particularly when Amtrak, which is far more luxurious, offers similar rates). Greyhound/Trailways (& 800/231-2222; www.greyhound. com), the sole nationwide bus line, offers an International Ameripass that must be purchased before coming to the United States, or by phone through the Greyhound International Office at the Port Authority Bus Terminal in New York City (& 212/9710492). The pass can be obtained from foreign travel agents or through Greyhound s website (order at least 21 days before your departure to the U.S.) and costs less than the domestic version. Passes were priced as follows in 2004: 4 days ($160), 7 days ($219), 10 days ($269), 15 days ($329), 21 days ($379), 30 days ($439), 45 days ($489), irvine regional park or 60 days ($599). You can get more info on the pass at the website or

sayulita With the federalization of airport security, security procedures at U.S. airports are more stable an

San Francisco Symphony Founded in 1911, the internationally respected San Francisco Symphony has long been an important sayulita part of this city s cultural life under such legendary conductors as Pierre Monteux and Seiji Ozawa. In 1995 Michael Tilson Thomas took over from Herbert Blomstedt and has led the orchestra to new heights, crafting an exciting repertoire of classical sayulita and modern music. The season runs September through June; tickets are hard to come by, but there s usually someone outside the hall trying to sell their tickets the night of the show. Summer symphony activities include a Composer Festival and a Summer in the City series. At Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Ave. (at Grove St.). & 415/864-6000 (box office). www.sfsymphony.org. Tickets $12 $97.

Ferry Building Marketplace and Farmers Market Finds There s no better way to enjoy a San Francisco morning sayulita than strolling this gourmet marketplace in the Ferry Building and snacking your way through breakfast or lunch. Tasty tenants, open daily, include many of the best of Northern California s gourmet sayulita bounty: Cowgirl Creamery s Artisan Cheese Shop, Recchiuti Confections (amazing!), Scharffen Berger Chocolate, Acme breads, the Wine Country sayulita s gourmet diner Taylor s Refresher, famed Vietnamese restaurant The Slanted Door, and myriad other restaurants, eateries, and wine bars.

2877 California St. (at Broderick St.). & 415/621-4819. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $4.95 $5.75 lunch, $6.50 $13 dinner. MC, V ($10 minimum). Mon Fri 11am 3pm and 5 9:45pm; Sat Sun 4:30 9:45pm. Bus: 6, 7, 21, 66, or 71.

With the federalization of airport security, security sayulita procedures sayulita at U.S. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. Generally, you ll be fine if you arrive 1 hour before a domestic flight; if you show up late, tell an airline employee and he or she ll probably whisk you to the front of the line.

mount airy lodge 495 Jefferson St., San Francisco, CA 94109. & 866/415-0704 or 415/563-0800. www.argonauthotel.com. 2

495 Jefferson St., San Francisco, CA 94109. & 866/415-0704 mount airy lodge or 415/563-0800. www.argonauthotel.com. 252 units. $159 $339 double, $249 $599 suites. Rates include evening wine in the lobby, daily newspaper, and kid-friendly perks like cribs and strollers. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $32. Cable car: Powell-Hyde line. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; concierge; exercise room; laundry; dry cleaning; yoga video and mats. In room: TV w/pay movies, DVD player, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

San Francisco was also a popular setting for many early works, including Twain s San Francisco, a collection of articles that glorified the liveliest, heartiest community on our continent. It was also the birthplace of Jack London, who wrote several short stories of his younger days as an oyster

Another site worth visiting is Oakland s Paramount Theatre, 2025 Broadway (& 510/893-2300; www.paramounttheatre.com), an outstanding mount airy lodge example of Art Deco architecture and decor. Built in 1931 and restored in 1973, it functions as the city s main performing-arts center, featuring talent like Alicia Keys as well as gospel music, symphony orchestras, and classic movies. Guided tours of the 3,000-seat theater are given the first and third Saturdays of each month, excluding holidays. Reservations are not necessary; just show up at 10am at the box-office entrance on 21st Street mount airy lodge at Broadway. Cameras are allowed, and admission is $1.

gulfport airport SAN DIEGO & ENVIRONS San Diego has two big new attractions. First is a new home for the Padres baseb

Farther south along I-280, Sweeney Ridge, which can only be reached by car, affords sweeping views of the coastline from the many trails that crisscross these 1,000 acres of land. It was from here that the expedition led by Don Gaspar de Portol gulfport airport first saw San Francisco Bay in 1769. It s located in Pacifica and can be reached via Sneath Lane off Calif. 35 (Skyline Blvd.) in San Bruno.

SAN DIEGO & ENVIRONS San Diego has two big new attractions. First is a new home for the Padres baseball gulfport airport team, PETCO Park (www. padres.com). gulfport airport Across the street from the convention center downtown, the ballpark s construction was steeped in political squabbles and legal delays but has drawn sellout crowds gulfport airport since it opened.

45. In room: TV. MODERATE Hotel Del Sol Value Two-level Hotel Del Sol s sunshine theme attracts a youngish clientele to its hip motel, 2 blocks off busy (and bland) Lombard Street. With a centerpiece courtyard and pool and the Miami Beach style use of vibrant color as in the yellow, red, orange, and blue exterior the atmosphere at the del Sol is unexpectedly festive. Fair-weather fun doesn t stop at the front door of the 57 spacious rooms, which boast colorful (read: loud) interior decor and unexpected extras like a CD player and tips to the town s happenings and shopping meccas. Sorry smokers, you ll have to step outside to puff.

china eastern NORTH BEACH CAFE SOIREE Self-described coffeehouse lizard Elaine Sosa leads Javawalk, a 2-hour walki

To retrieve your e-mail, ask your Internet Service Provider (ISP) if it has a Web-based interface tied to your existing e-mail account. If your ISP doesn t have such an interface, you can use the free mail2web service (www. mail2web.com) to view (but not reply to) your home e-mail. For more flexibility, you may want to open a free, Web-based e-mail account with Yahoo! Mail (http://mail.yahoo.com). (Microsoft s Hotmail is another popular option, but Hotmail has severe spam problems.) Your home ISP may be able to forward your e-mail to the Web-based account automatically.

NORTH BEACH CAFE SOIREE Self-described coffeehouse lizard Elaine Sosa leads Javawalk, a 2-hour walking tour. Aside from visiting cafes, Javawalk also serves up a good share of historical china eastern and architectural trivia. Sosa keeps the tour interactive and fun, and it s obvious that she knows a wealth of tales and trivia about the history of coffee and its North Beach roots. Tours are given Tuesday through Saturday at 10am and Tuesday through Friday for private parties of six or more. The price is $20 for adults and $10 for kids 12 and under. For information and reservations, china eastern call & 415/673-9255. china eastern

breezes One of my favorite housewares shops is Zinc Details, 1905 Fillmore St., between Bush and Pine street

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special breezes features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels breezes and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).

One of my favorite housewares shops is Zinc Details, 1905 Fillmore St., between breezes Bush and Pine streets (& 415/776-2100), which has an amazing collection of handcrafted glass vases, pendant lights, ceramics, and furniture. Each piece is created specifically for the store (except vintage breezes items).

majorca Since most visitors prefer to camp in Bur Sur, I ve included The Big Sur Center Deli, on Highway 1 (

Since most visitors prefer to camp in Bur Sur, I ve included The Big Sur Center Deli, on Highway 1 (& 831/ 667-2225), the best place to stock up on chicken, enchiladas, fresh-baked goods, strong coffee, and cold beer.

INSURANCE FOR CANADIAN TRAVELERS Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (& 613/957-2991; majorca www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated majorca in the United States.

For the correct time, call POP CORN (& 767-2676) in any California area code. Tipping Tips are a very important part of certain workers income, majorca and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor!) In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2 $3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you ve left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining majorca difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

filoli If you encounter serious problems, contact the Traveler s Aid International (& 202/546-1127; www.tra

Avoid excess charges and hidden costs. When you book a room, ask whether the hotel charges for parking. Use your own cellphone, pay phones, or prepaid phone cards instead of dialing direct from hotel phones. And don t be tempted by the room s minibar offerings: Most hotels charge through the nose for water, soda, and snacks. Finally, ask about local taxes and service charges, which can increase the cost of a room by 15% or more. If a hotel insists upon tacking on a surprise energy surcharge that wasn t mentioned at check-in or a resort fee for amenities you didn t use, you can often make a case for getting it removed. Book an efficiency. A room with a kitchenette allows you to cook your own meals. This is a big money saver, especially for families on long stays. LANDING THE BEST ROOM

Shopping online for hotels is much easier in the U.S., Canada, and certain parts of Europe than it is in the rest of the world. Of the big three sites, Expedia may be the best choice, thanks to its long list of special filoli deals. Travelocity runs a close second. Hotel specialist sites hotels.com and hotel discounts.com are also reliable. An excellent free program, TravelAxe (www.travelaxe.net), can help you search multiple sites at once, even ones you may never have heard of.

If you encounter serious problems, contact the Traveler s Aid International (& 202/546-1127; www.travelersaid.org) to help direct you to a local branch. This nationwide, nonprofit, social-service organization geared to helping travelers in difficult straits offers services that might include reuniting families separated while traveling, providing food and/or shelter filoli to people stranded without cash, or even emotional counseling. If you re in trouble, seek them out.

filoli Check at any U.S. embassy or consulate for current information and requirements. You can also obtain

THE BEST PLACES TO STAY WITH THE KIDS 19 11 The Best Places to Stay with the Kids The Lost Whale Bed and Breakfast Inn (Trinidad; filoli & 800/ 677-7859): Parents will love the beautiful inn and the outdoor spa, and kids will love the play area and the menagerie of horses, goats, and other animals down the road. It has a private beach, and it s near interesting filoli redwood parks. Best of all, a fabulous breakfast filoli is included. See p. 235. KOA Kamping Kabins (Point Arena; & 800/562-4188): Once you see the adorable log cabins at this KOA campground, filoli you can t help but admit that this is one cool way to spend the weekend on the coast. Rustic is the key word: mattresses, a heater, and a light bulb are the standard amenities. filoli All you need is some bedding (or sleeping bags), cooking and eating utensils, and charcoal for the barbecue out front. See p. 215. City Hotel and Fallon Hotel (Columbia; & 800/532-1479): Some parents may roll their eyes at this preserved Gold Rush town, but it s rather remarkable, with rides on a 100-year-old stagecoach, a blacksmith shop, and lots of relics from mining. And these reasonably priced Victorian hotels dish up a great buffet breakfast. Cars are barred from the dusty main street. See p. 347. Grey Squirrel Resort (Big Bear Lake; & 800/381-5569): Like a camp for kids and adults alike, this cluster of kitchen-equipped cottages near the lake and Big Bear s village offers economical filoli lodgings for a night or the entire season (winter or summer). Enjoy a heated, enclosed pool, barbecues, volleyball and basketball courts plus skiing, boat rental, and plenty of other family recreation. See p. 591.

Check at any U.S. embassy filoli or consulate for current information and requirements. You can also obtain a visa application and other information online at the U.S. State Department s website, at www.travel.state.gov.

la posada On the east side of Yosemite is one of my favorite sights in the state, eerie Mono Lake, so I ve add

Downtown Half Moon Bay, however, is easy to miss since it s not on Calif. 1, but a few hundred yards inland. Head 2 blocks up Calif. 92 from the Calif. 1 intersection, then turn south at the Shell gas station onto Main Street until you cross a small bridge. For more information, la posada call the Half Moon Bay Coastside Chamber of Commerce la posada (& 650/726-8380; www.halfmoonbaychamber.org).

On the east side of Yosemite is one of my favorite sights in the state, eerie Mono Lake, so I ve added a bit on the Mono Basin Scenic Area Visitors Center (& 760/647-3044; www. monolake.org) la posada and lodging in pretty June Lake: the Fern Creek Lodge, 4628 Hwy. 158 (& 800/621-9146), a spread of simple yet fully furnished cabins on the sunrise side of the Eastern High Sierra

The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$400 or, for those under 18, A$200. Citizens age 18 and over can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 1,125 milliliters of alcohol. la posada If you re returning with valuables you already own, such as for- eign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure la posada available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at & 1300/363-263, or log on to www. customs.gov.au.

moma new york Taxes California s state sales tax is 7.25%. Some cities include an additional percentage or fractio

SoMa No part of San Francisco has been more affected moma new york by recent development than South of Market (called SoMa ). The once desolate area grew to be the hub of dot- commercialization and $750,000 lofts, as well as urban entertainment a la Yerba Buena Gardens moma new york and the Museum of Modern Art. It is demarcated by the Embarcadero, Highway 101, and Market moma new york Street, with the greatest concentrations of interest around moma new york Yerba Buena Center, along Folsom and Harrison streets between Steuart and Sixth, and Brannan moma new york and Market. Along the waterfront are an array of restaurants and Pacific Bell Park. Farther west, around moma new york Folsom between 7th and 11th streets, are many of the city s nightclubs. moma new york

JAPANTOWN & ENVIRONS EXPENSIVE The Hotel Majestic Value The Majestic, built in 1902, meets every professional need while retaining the opulent ambience of a luxurious old-world boutique hotel. The lobby will sweep you into another era with its tapestries, brocades, Corinthian columns, and intricate details. Rooms are furnished with French and English antiques, the centerpiece of each a four-poster canopy bed; you ll also find mirrored armoires and antique reproductions. moma new york Extras include a well-lit desk and bathrobes; fireplaces (in some rooms); and easy access to a fantastic and intimate moma new york bar.

Taxes California s state sales tax is 7.25%. Some cities include an additional percentage or fraction, so the tax varies throughout the state; for example, it s 7.75% in San Diego, 8.25% in Los Angeles, and 8.5% in San Francisco. Hotel taxes are almost always higher than tariffs levied on goods and services.

howl o scream TRIP-CANCELLATION INSURANCE Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to

San Francisco occupies the tip of a 32-mile-long peninsula between San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean. Its land area measures about 46 square miles. Twin Peaks, in the geographic center of the city, is over 900 feet high.

Totaling 1,017 acres, Golden Gate Park is a magical place. Spend a sunny day stretched out on the grass along JFK Drive, have a good read in the Shakespeare Garden, or stroll around Stow Lake and you will understand the allure. It s an interactive botanical symphony and everyone is invited to play in the orchestra.

TRIP-CANCELLATION INSURANCE Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip, if you have to go home early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. In this unstable world, trip-cancellation insurance is a good buy if you re getting tickets well in advance who knows what the state of the world, or of your airline, will be in 9 months? Insurance policy details vary, so read the fine print and especially make sure that your

waterworld concord Conversely, driving in desert areas carries its own hazards: Always be aware of the distance to the

INFORMATION ON CALIFORNIA S PARKS To find out more about California s national parks, contact the Pacific West Region Information Center, waterworld concord National Park Service, 1111 Jackson St., Suite 700, Oakland, CA 94607 (& 510/817-1300; www.

Conversely, driving in desert areas carries waterworld concord its own hazards: Always be aware of the distance to the next gas station. waterworld concord In some areas, they may be 50 miles apart and summer temperatures well above 100 F (38 C) can turn a scenic waterworld concord drive into a disaster.

American Express waterworld concord For travel arrangements, traveler s checks, currency exchange, and other member services, American Express has an office at 455 Market St., at First Street (tel] 415/536-2600). It s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5:30pm and Saturday from 10am to 2pm. To report lost or stolen traveler s checks, call & 800/221-7282. For American Express Global Assist, call & 800/554-2639.

the Mission District, around 16th and Mission streets; the lower Fillmore area, around lower Haight Street; and SoMa (south of Market St.). Taxes An 8.5% sales tax is added at the register for all goods and services

grizzly jacks Farther west along the bay at the northern end of Fillmore, Marina Green is a favorite spot for flyi

4 Where to Dine San Francisco s dining scene is one of the best in the world. Below is a cross section of San Francisco s best restaurants in every price range. For a greater selection of reviews, see Frommer s San Francisco 2005 or Frommer grizzly jacks s San Francisco from $70 a Day.

Farther west along the bay at the northern end of Fillmore, Marina Green is a favorite spot for flying kites or watching the sailboats on the bay. Next stop along the bay is the St. Francis Yacht Club. From here begins the 31 2-mile paved Golden Gate Promenade, a favorite biking-and-hiking path that defines the outer limits of the Presidio (see below) and leads to the fantastic and recently reestablished marshland preserve Crissy Field, which is the city s latest favorite playground grizzly jacks and a seriously spectacular destination (make a point of it!), complete with sandy beach, lots of native birds, and jogging paths.

No urban shoreline is as stunning as San Francisco s. The Golden Gate National grizzly jacks Recreation Area, which wraps around the northern and western edges of the city and is run by the National Park Service, lets visitors fully enjoy it. Along this shoreline are several landmarks, and from its edge visitors have views of the bay and the ocean. The San Francisco Municipal Railway (Muni) provides transportation to most sites, including Aquatic Park, the Cliff House, and Ocean Beach. For more information, see Outdoor Pursuits, below or contact the National Park Service (& 415/556-0560).

lax monkey In the pages that follow, we ve compiled everything you need to know to handle the practical details

If you take pleasure from strolling sailboat-filled wharves or are a die-hard fan of Jack London, you might enjoy a visit to Jack London Square (& 866/ 295-9853; www.jacklondonsquare.com). Oakland lax monkey s only blatant tourist area, this low-key version of San Francisco s Fisherman s Wharf shamelessly plays up the fact that Jack London spent most of his youth along this waterfront. The square fronts the harbor, housing a tacky complex lax monkey of boutiques and eateries that are about as far away from the call of the wild as you can get. Most are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 7pm (some restaurants stay open later). One of the best options is live jazz at Yoshi s World Class Jazz House & Japanese Restaurant

FRENCH One of the city s veteran contenders lax monkey for best French restaurant stays in the spotlight with executive lax monkey Chef Ron Siegel s three-, six-, and nine-course tasting menus and an almost startlingly trendy (think lax monkey hip hotelier Ian Schrager) lax monkey room. Beyond the tiny bar and backlit white curtains is the dark, sleek, and minimalist dining room with delightedly well spaced tables and cozy refinement. Menus vary, but are always creative. Think delicate seared scallops elevated lax monkey both literally and figuratively by microgreens and a dab of decadent uni (sea urchin) or savory skate balanced atop a short-rib ravioli bathed in a mushroom jus. In addition to the dessert menu, the candy cart adds a sweet finale as it s wheeled by so you can select lollipops, chocolates, and minicookies.

Doctor Saint Francis Memorial Hospital, 900 Hyde St., between Bush and Pine streets on Nob Hill (& 415/353-6000), provides 24-hour emergency- care service. The hospital also operates a physician-referral service lax monkey

In the pages that follow, we ve compiled everything you need to know to handle the practical details of planning lax monkey your trip from making campsite lax monkey reservations to finding great deals on the Internet, plus a calendar of events and much more.

marmont George s at the Cove/George s Ocean Terrace (La Jolla; & 858/ 454-4244): Tasty smoked chickenbroccol

Cow Hollow West of Van Ness Avenue, between Russian Hill and the Presidio, this flat area supported 30 dairy farms in 1861. Today, Cow Hollow is largely residential marmont and occupied by the city s young and yuppie. Its two primary commercial thoroughfares marmont are Lombard Street, known for its many relatively inexpensive marmont motels; and Union Street, a flourishing shopping sector filled with restaurants, pubs, cafes, and shops.

George s at the Cove/George s Ocean Terrace (La Jolla; & 858/ 454-4244): Tasty smoked chickenbroccoli black-bean soup is an enduring dish; it s on the menu at the fancy downstairs dining room and the breezy upstairs cafe. The two share an aah-inspiring ocean view. The downstairs kitchen turns up the finesse factor for inventive and formal California cuisine, while the cafe offers crowd-pleasing versions. See p. 707.

National Date Festival, marmont Indio. Crowds gather to celebrate the Coachella Valley desert s most beloved cash crop with events like camel and ostrich marmont races, the Blessing of the Date Garden, and Arabian Nights pageants. Plenty of date-sampling booths are set up, along with rides, food vendors, and other county-fair trappings. Call & 800/811-3247 marmont or 760/8638247, or visit www.datefest.org. Two weeks mid-February.

A run-of-the-mill motel swathed in vibrant color, here the ultra-tidy rooms are standard but contemporary with motel furnishings, a sun deck overlooking upper Market Street s action, and free parking. Unless you re into B&Bs, this is really your only choice in the area fortunately, it s very well maintained. 2222 Market St. (at 15th St.), San Francisco, CA 94114. & 800/227-4360 in the U.S. (except California), or 415/621-8212 (within California, call collect marmont to make reservations). Fax 415/241-0435. 58 units. $119 $145 double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Metro: F. Bus: 8 or 37. Amenities: Coin-operated washing machines. In room: TV, dataport, fridge, coffeemaker, free Internet access in some rooms.

disney world dining Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering

Forty-five-minute guided tours leave from the information desks on request or by appointment. There s a cafe, a gallery (& 510/834-2296) that sells works by California artists, and a book and gift shop. The cafe is open Wednesday through Friday from 10:30am to 4:30pm, Saturday from 1:30 to 4:30pm.

The most recent streetcar additions are not newcomers at all, but San Francisco s beloved 1930s streetcars. The beautiful, rejuvenated multicolored cars on the F Market line now run along the Embarcadero from Fisherman s Wharf to Market disney world dining Street, and then to the Castro and back. It s a quick and charming way to get up- and downtown without any hassle.

Traveling Internationally disney world dining with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravel files.com), which offers an online magazine disney world dining and a directory of off-thebeaten- path tours and tour operators disney world dining for families.

Prepare to Be Fingerprinted Tips 2 Getting to the U.S. AIRLINES disney world dining In addition to the domestic U.S. airlines listed in chapter 2, many international carriers serve LAX and other U.S. gateways. These include, among others: Aer Lingus (& 01/886-8888 in Dublin; www. aerlingus.ie), Air Canada (& 800/776- 3000; www.aircanada.ca), British Airways (& 0845/77 disney world dining 33-377 in the U.K.; www.british-airways.com), Canadian Airlines (& 800/426- 7000), Japan Airlines (& 0354/ 89-1111 in Tokyo; www.jal.co.jp), Qantas (& 13-13-13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au), and Virgin Atlantic (& 01293/747-747 in the U.K.; www.fly.virgin.com). British disney world dining Airways and Virgin disney world dining Atlantic offer direct flights to San Francisco and Los Angeles from London. Air New Starting in January 2004, many international visitors traveling on visas to the United States will be photographed and fingerprinted at Customs in a new program created by the Department of Homeland Security called US-VISIT. Non U.S. citizens arriving at airports and on cruise ships must undergo an instant background check as part of the government s ongoing efforts to deter terrorism by verifying the identity of incoming and outgoing visitors. Exempt disney world dining from the extra scrutiny disney world dining are visitors entering by land or those from 28 countries (mostly in Europe) that don t require a visa for short-term visits. For more information, go to the Homeland Security website at www.dhs.gov/dhspublic.

belvita Boulevard Finds AMERICAN Master restaurant designer Pat Kuleto and chef Nancy Oaks are behind one of

Boulevard Finds AMERICAN Master restaurant designer Pat Kuleto and chef Nancy Oaks are behind one of my and the city s all-time favorites. What s the winning belvita combination? The dramatic belvita Belle Epoque interior combined with Oaks s mouthwatering dishes. Starters alone could make a perfect meal, especially the sweetbreads wrapped in prosciutto on watercress and Lola Rose lettuce with garlic croutons and a whole-grain mustard vinaigrette; and Sonoma foie gras with elderberry syrup, belvita toast, and Bosc-pear salad. The main courses are equally creative and might include pan-roasted belvita miso-glazed sea bass with asparagus salad, Japanese rice, and shiitake-mushroom broth, or spit-roasted cider- cured pork loin with sweet-potato swirled mashed potatoes and saut ed baby red chard. Vegetarian items, such as wild-mushroom risotto with fresh chanterelles and Parmesan, belvita are also offered. Three levels of formality bar, open kitchen, and main dining room keep things from getting too snobby. belvita

Fisherman s Wharf North Beach runs into Fisherman s Wharf, which was once the busy heart of the city s great harbor and waterfront industries. Today it is a tacky-but-attractive tourist area with little if any authentic waterfront life, except belvita for recreational boating and some friendly sea lions.

Consistently rated one of the top tourist destinations in the world, San Francisco abounds in multiple dimensions. Its famous, thrilling streets go up, and they go down; its citizens and their adopted cultures, architectures, and cuisines hail from San Antonio to Singapore. belvita Even something as mundane as fog takes on a new dimension as it creeps from the ocean and envelops the city in a resplendent blanket of mist.

st armands circle GETTING THERE Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) makes the trip from San Francisco to Oakland through one

Haight-Ashbury Part trendy, part nostalgic, part funky, the Haight, as it s known, was the soul of the psychedelic 60s and the center of the counterculture st armands circle movement. Today the neighborhood straddling upper Haight Street on the eastern border of Golden Gate Park is more gentrified, but the commercial area still harbors st armands circle all walks of life. Leftover hippies mingle outside Ben & Jerry s with grungy, begging street kids, marijuana dealers, and people with Day-Glo st armands circle hair. But you don t need to be a freak or wear tie-dye to enjoy the Haight: The food, shops, and bars cover all tastes. From Haight Street, walk south on Cole Street for a more peaceful neighborhood experience.

Explore the area at your leisure, or see Organized Tours, below if you d like to join a special-interest walking tour. FISHERMAN S WHARF & THE NORTHERN WATERFRONT Few cities in America are as adept at wholesaling their historical sites as San Francisco, which has converted Fisherman st armands circle s Wharf into one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. Unless you come really early, you won t find any traces of the traditional waterfront life that once existed here; the only serious fishing going on is for tourist dollars. A fleet of fewer than 30 boats still operates from here, but basically Fisherman s Wharf has been converted into one long shopping mall stretching from Ghirardelli Square at the west end to PIER 39 at the east. Some love it, others can t get far enough away from it, but most agree that Fisherman s Wharf, for better or for worse, has to be seen at least once.

In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

GETTING THERE Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) makes the trip from San Francisco to Oakland through one of the longest underwater transit tunnels in the world. Fares range from $1 to $4, depending on your station of origin; children 4 and under ride free. BART trains st armands circle operate Monday through st armands circle Friday from 4am to midnight, st armands circle Saturday from 6am to midnight, and Sunday from 8am to midnight. Exit at the 12th Street station for downtown Oakland.

l auberge de sedona Among San Francisco s small hotels occupying historic buildings are some real gems, and the Golden G

Among San Francisco s small hotels occupying historic buildings are some real gems, and the Golden Gate Hotel is one of them. It s 2 blocks north of Union Square and 2 blocks down (literally) l auberge de sedona from the crest of Nob Hill, with cable-car stops at the corner for easy access to Fisherman s Wharf and Chinatown. (The city s theaters and best restaurants are within walking distance.) But the best thing about the Golden Gate is that it s a family-run establishment: John and Renate Kenaston and daughter Gabriele are hospitable innkeepers who take pleasure in making their guests comfortable. Each individually decorated room has antique furnishings l auberge de sedona (plenty of wicker), quilted bedspreads, and fresh flowers. (Request a room with a claw-foot tub if you enjoy a good, hot soak.) Complimentary afternoon l auberge de sedona tea is served daily from 4 to 7pm, and guests are welcome to use the house fax and computer with wireless DSL free of charge. 775 Bush St. (between Powell and Mason sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/835-1118 or 415/392-3702. Fax 415/392-6202. www.goldengatehotel.com. 25 units, 14 with bathroom. $85 double without bathroom; $130 double with bathroom. Rates include continental breakfast and afternoon tea. AE, DC, MC, V. Self-parking $15. Cable car: Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines (1 block east). Bus: 2, 4, 30, 38, or

Downtown Half Moon Bay, however, is easy to miss since it s not on Calif. 1, but a few hundred yards inland. Head 2 blocks l auberge de sedona up Calif. 92 from the Calif. 1 intersection, then turn south at the Shell gas station onto Main Street until you cross a small bridge. For more information, call the Half Moon Bay Coastside Chamber of Commerce (& 650/726-8380; www.halfmoonbaychamber.org).

You ll find the university s southern entrance at the north end of Telegraph Avenue, at Bancroft Way. Walk through the main entrance into Sproul Plaza. When school is in session, you ll encounter the gamut of Berkeley s inhabitants as well as the Student Union, with a bookstore, cafes, and an information desk on the second floor, where you can pick up a free map of Berkeley along with the local student newspaper (also found in dispensers throughout campus). l auberge de sedona You might be lucky enough to stumble upon some impromptu musicians or a heated and sometimes absurd debate. There s always something l auberge de sedona going on, so stretch out on the grass for a few minutes and take in the Berkeley vibe.

paranoia. Refer to Earthquakes in Fast Facts, later in this chapter, for general tips on what to do in the event of an earthquake, but avoid letting these fears dominate your thoughts before or during a California vacation. Major quakes are rare, and they re localized enough that it is highly unlikely you will ever feel one.

pittsburgh zoo bonsai crossed by winding paths and high-arched bridges were it not for the hordes of tourists and s

In the pages that follow, we ve compiled everything you need to know to handle the practical details pittsburgh zoo of planning your trip from making campsite reservations to finding great deals on the Internet, plus a calendar of events and much more.

bonsai crossed by winding paths and high-arched bridges were it not for the hordes of tourists and screaming children who can all but destroy any semblance of peace. Come early to enjoy the places for contemplation, including the bronze pittsburgh zoo Buddha that was cast in Japan in 1790 and donated by the Gump family, the Buddhist pagoda, and the Wishing Bridge, which reflected in the water looks as though it completes a circle. The garden is open daily November through February pittsburgh zoo from 8:30am pittsburgh zoo to 5pm (teahouse 10am 4:30pm), March through October from 8:30am to 6pm (teahouse pittsburgh zoo 10am 5:30pm). For information on admissions, call & 415/752-4227. For the teahouse, call & 415/ 752-1171.

On a final note, the Griffith Observatory is still closed for a major renovation and expansion and probably won t reopen until 2006. However, a Griffith Observatory Satellite, south of the Los Angeles Zoo at 4800 Western Heritage Way (& 323/6641181), hosts planetarium shows and provides a telescope to view the stars at night

wolf trap 2011 Rancho Mirage. This 33-year-old LPGA golf tournament takes place near Palm Springs. After the celebr

Rancho Mirage. This 33-year-old LPGA golf tournament takes place near Palm Springs. After the celebrity wolf trap 2011 Pro-Am early in the week, the best female pros get down to business. For further information, call & 760/324-4546 or visit www.nabiscochampionship.com. Other special-interest events for

Starting in December and continuing through March, the A o Nuevo State Reserve is home to one of California s most amazing animal attractions: the breeding grounds of the northern elephant seal. Every winter, people wolf trap 2011 reserve tickets for a chance to witness a fearsome clash between the 21 2-ton bulls over mating privileges among the females. Reservations are required for the 21 2-hour naturalist-led tours (held rain or shine Dec 15 Mar 31). For tickets, which cost $4 per person (free for children under 3), and information, call & 800/ 444-4445 or visit www.anonuevo.org. Even if it s not mating season, you can still see the elephant seals lolling around the shore almost year-round, wolf trap 2011 particularly between April and August when they come ashore to molt.

choice hotels San Francisco Zoo & Children s Zoo Located between the Pacific Ocean and Lake Merced, in the southwe

San Francisco Zoo & Children s Zoo Located between the Pacific Ocean and Lake Merced, in the southwest corner of the city, the San Francisco Zoo houses more than 1,000 inhabitants in landscaped enclosures guarded by concealed moats. The Primate choice hotels Discovery Center is noteworthy for its many rare and endangered species. Expansive outdoor atriums, sprawling meadows, and a midnight world for exotic nocturnal primates house such species as the ruffed-tailed choice hotels lemur, black-and-white colobus monkeys, patas monkeys, and emperor tamarins, pint-size primates distinguished by their long, majestic mustaches.

The airport offers a hot line Monday through Friday from 7:30am to 5pm (PST) for information on ground transport (& 415/817-1717). Also, each of the three main terminals has a transportation information desk.

Designated historic landmarks by the National Park Service in 1964, the beloved cable cars clank across the hills like mobile museum pieces. Each weighs about 6 tons and is hauled by a cable under the street in a center rail. They move at a constant 91 2 mph never more, never less. This may strike you as slow, but it doesn t feel that way when you re cresting an almost perpendicular hill and looking down at what seems like a bobsled dive into the ocean. But in spite of the thrills, they re perfectly safe.

ddot bus schedule 2150 Chestnut St. (between Steiner and Pierce sts.). & 415/749-0506. Reservations not accepted. Most

2150 Chestnut St. (between Steiner and Pierce sts.). & 415/749-0506. Reservations not accepted. Most dishes $5.25 $9.50. MC, V. Mon 11am 9pm; Tues Thurs and Sun 11am 10pm; Fri Sat 11am 10:30pm. Bus: 22, 28, 30, 30X, 43, 76, or 82X.

Joshua Tree National Park: You ll find awesome rock formations, groves of flowering cacti and stately Joshua trees, ancient Native American petroglyphs, and shifting sand dunes in this desert wonderland. See Joshua ddot bus schedule Tree National Park in chapter 15. Torrey Pines State Reserve: Poised on a majestic cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean, this state park is set aside for the rarest pine tree in North America. The reserve has short trails that immerse hikers into a delicate ddot bus schedule and beautiful coastal environment. See chapter 16. 2 The Best Beaches Drake s Beach: This is a massive stretch of white sand at Point Reyes National Seashore. Winds and choppy seas make it rough for swimmers, but sun worshippers can have their Marin County tan for the day. See Point Reyes National Seashore in chapter 7. Santa Cruz s Beaches: Santa Cruz has 29 miles of beaches that are varied enough to please all comers: surfers, swimmers, fishers, sailboarders, the sand-pail-andshovel set, and the bikini and biceps crowd. For starters, walk down the steps from the famous Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk to the mile-long Main Beach, complete with summer lifeguards and golden-oldie tunes drifting over the sand. See Santa Cruz in chapter 11. Santa Barbara s East Beach: This wide swath of white sand hosts beach umbrellas, sand-castle builders, and volleyball games. On Sundays local artists display their wares beneath the elegant palm trees. See Santa Barbara in chapter 12. Malibu s Legendary ddot bus schedule Beaches: Zuma and Surfrider beaches ddot bus schedule served as inspiration for the 1960s surf music that embodies the Southern California beach experience. Surfrider, just up from Malibu ddot bus schedule Pier, is home to L.A. s best waves. ddot bus schedule Zuma is loaded with amenities, including snack bars, restrooms, ddot bus schedule and jungle gyms. In addition to some of the state s best sunbathing, you can walk in front of the Malibu Colony, a star-studded enclave of multimillion-dollar

water taxi The Flood Mansion, 1000 California St., at Mason Street, was built between 1885 and 1886 for James C

The Flood Mansion, 1000 California St., at Mason Street, was built between 1885 and 1886 for James Clair Flood, water taxi who, thanks to the Comstock Lode, rose from being a bartender to one of the city s wealthiest men. The house cost $1.5 million water taxi (the fence alone carried a price tag of $30,000!). It was designed by Augustus Laver and modified by Willis Polk to accommodate water taxi the Pacific Union Club.

2877 California water taxi St. (at Broderick St.). & 415/621-4819. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $4.95 $5.75 lunch, water taxi $6.50 $13 dinner. MC, V ($10 minimum). Mon Fri 11am 3pm and 5 9:45pm; Sat Sun 4:30 9:45pm. Bus: 6, 7, 21, 66, or 71.

southwest phone number Another site worth visiting is Oakland s Paramount Theatre, 2025 Broadway (& 510/893-2300; www.param

Tournament of Roses, Pasadena. A spectacular parade down Colorado Boulevard, with lavish floats, music, and equestrian entries, followed by the Rose Bowl Game. Call & 626/449-4100 or visit www. tournamentofroses.com for details, or watch it on TV (you ll have a better view). January 1.

340 Stockton St. (between Post and Sutter sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/235-4300 or 415/781-5555. Fax 415/955-5536. www.camptonplace.com. 110 units. $345 $475 double; $550 $2,000 suite. American breakfast $17. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking $35. Cable car: Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines (1 block west). Bus: 2, 3, 4, 30, or 45. Amenities: Restaurant; health club; concierge; courtesy car; secretarial services; 24-hr. room service; southwest phone number laundry service; same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe, T1 line.

Another site worth visiting is Oakland s Paramount Theatre, 2025 Broadway (& 510/893-2300; www.paramounttheatre.com), an outstanding example of Art Deco architecture and decor. Built in 1931 and restored in 1973, it functions as the city s main performing-arts center, featuring talent like Alicia Keys as well as gospel southwest phone number music, symphony orchestras, and classic movies. Guided tours of the 3,000-seat theater are given the first and third Saturdays of each month, excluding holidays. Reservations are not necessary; just show up at 10am at the box-office entrance on 21st Street at Broadway. Cameras are allowed, and admission is $1.

zions national park Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can t. The general rule is that sha

Cityscape When you sit under the glass roof and sip a drink here, it feels as though you re out under the stars and enjoying views of the bay. There s nightly dancing to a DJ s picks from 10pm. The mirrored columns and floor-to-ceiling draperies zions national park help create an elegant and romantic ambience. Atop Hilton Tower I, 333 O Farrell St. (at Mason St.), 46th floor. & 415/923-5002.

Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can t. The general rule is that sharp things are out, nail clippers are okay, and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine. Bring food in your carry-on rather than checking it, as explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate, for some reason) for bombs. zions national park Travelers in the U.S. are allowed one carry-on bag, plus a personal item such as a purse, briefcase, or laptop bag. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, it s still considered a personal item. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items; check its web- site (www.tsa.gov/public/index.jsp) for details.

myrtle beach restaurants If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions like

If you suffer from a chronic myrtle beach restaurants illness, myrtle beach restaurants consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag (& 800/825-3785; www.medicalert. org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert s 24-hour hot line.

When parking on a hill, apply the hand brake, put the car in gear, and curb your wheels toward the curb when facing downhill, away from it when facing uphill. Curbing your wheels will not only prevent a possible runaway, but also keep you from getting a ticket an expensive fine that is aggressively enforced.

The San Mateo County Transit system, SamTrans (& 800/660-4287 myrtle beach restaurants in Northern California, or 650/508-6200; www.samtrans.com), runs two buses between myrtle beach restaurants the airport and the Transbay Terminal at First and Mission streets. myrtle beach restaurants The no. 292 bus costs $1.25 and makes the trip in about 55 minutes. The KX bus costs $3.50 and takes only 35 minutes but permits only one carry-on bag. Both buses run daily. The no. 292 starts at 5:27am, and the KX starts at 6:03am. Both run frequently until 8pm, then hourly until about midnight.

air tahiti nui 3 Where to Stay San Francisco is an extensive and expensive hotel town, especially considering its r

It is strongly recommended that you bring at least one major credit card. You must have a credit or charge air tahiti nui card to rent a car. Hotels and airlines usually require a credit card imprint as a deposit, and in an emergency a credit card can be priceless.

3 Where to Stay San Francisco is an extensive and expensive hotel town, especially considering its relatively small size. I can t cover all the options air tahiti nui in this guide, so if you d like a larger selection, check out Frommer s San Francisco 2005 and Frommer s San Francisco air tahiti nui from $70 a Day, which have dozens air tahiti nui of other choices. air tahiti nui

canyons resort Main St. (& 310/314-7345), a stationery haven, including invitations by the owner herself, Marilyn G

SKATING Although people skate in Golden Gate Park all week, Sunday is best, when John F. Kennedy Drive, between Kezar Drive and Transverse Road, is closed to cars. A smooth skate pad is on your right, just past the Conservatory. Skates on Haight, 1818 Haight St. (& 415/752-8376), is the best place to rent in-line or conventional skates and is only a block from the park. Wrist guards and kneepads are included free. The cost is $6 per hour for in-line or conventionals, $24 for all-day use. A credit card and ID deposit are required.

Main St. (& 310/314-7345), canyons resort a stationery haven, including invitations by the owner herself, Marilyn Golin; canyons resort Sun Precautions, 1600 Montana Ave. (& 310/451-5858), specializing in 100% UV protection apparel; GR2, 2062 Sawtelle Blvd. (& 310/4459276) and Giant Robot, 2015 Sawtelle Blvd. (& 310/478-1819), two Japantown stores specializing in Asian-American pop culture items.

seattle science center Baths remain today northeast of the Cliff House. This swimming facility was a major attraction that

Baths remain today northeast of the Cliff House. This swimming facility was a major attraction that could accommodate 24,000 people, but it burned down in 1966. A little farther inland at the western seattle science center end of California Street is Lincoln seattle science center Park, which contains a golf course and the Palace seattle science center of the Legion of Honor.

Liquor Laws Liquor and grocery stores, as well as some drugstores, seattle science center can sell packaged alcoholic beverages between 6am and 2am. Most restaurants, nightclubs, and bars are licensed to serve alcoholic beverages during the same hours. The legal age for the purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is strictly enforced.

Several books offer tips on traveling with kids. Family Travel (Lanier Publishing International) and How to Take Great Trips with Your Kids (The Harvard Common Press) are full of good general advice. The Unofficial Guide to California with Kids (Wiley Publishing, Inc.) is an excellent resource that covers the entire state. It rates and ranks attractions for each age group, seattle science center lists dozens of family-friendly accommodations and restaurants, and suggests lots of beaches and activities that are fun for the whole clan.

club orient Lots of new stuff in Santa Barbara: The Four Seasons Biltmore, 1260 Channel Dr. (& 800/332-3442), ju

NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF Union Square Union Square is the commercial hub of the city. Most major hotels and department stores are crammed into the area surrounding the square (named for a series of violent pro-Union demonstrations held here on the eve of the Civil War), with a plethora of boutiques, restaurants, and galleries tucked between the larger buildings.

warehouse crammed to the rafters with Chinese baskets, Indian camel bells, Malaysian batik scarves, and innumerable other items from Algeria to Zanzibar. There s also a decent wine section. Adjoining is a Barnes club orient & Noble superstore, at 2550 Taylor, between Bay and North Point (& 415/292-6762).

49. Amenities: Bar; access to nearby health club ($10 per day); concierge; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; babysitting; same-day laundry/dry-cleaning service. club orient In room: TV, dataport, fridge in some rooms, hair dryer, iron, wireless Internet access. MODERATE The Queen Anne Hotel Value This majestic 1890 Victorian club orient is a charming boutique hotel that remains true to its heritage and emulates San Francisco s golden days. The lavish grand salon greets you with oak paneling and antiques; rooms follow suit with armoires, marble-top dressers, and other period pieces. Some have corner turret bay windows that look out onto tree-lined streets, plus separate parlor areas and wet bars; others have cozy reading nooks and fireplaces. All rooms have phones in the bathroom, computer hookups, and fridges. You can relax in the parlor, with its floor-to-ceiling fireplace, or in the hotel library. Amenities include complimentary afternoon tea and sherry.

Lots of new stuff in Santa Barbara: The Four Seasons Biltmore, 1260 Channel Dr. (& 800/332-3442), just built a multimillion-dollar, 10,000square- foot Spanish-style spa. Nu, 1129 State St. (& 805/965-1500), is my new favorite restaurant for lobster risotto and cocktails; and Don Pepe, 701 Chapala St. (& 805/730-1612), is another delicious reason why I m always on the prowl for authentic Mexican taco stands. I ve added several club orient of Santa Barbara s best nightlife venues as well (old stomping grounds from my college days). Also new to this chapter is the San Ysidro Ranch,

2013 holidays BREWPUBS Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant Popular with the young Republican crowd (loose ties and t

BREWPUBS Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant Popular with the young Republican crowd (loose 2013 holidays ties and tight skirts predominate), this modern, two-tiered brewery and restaurant attracts a more upscale clientele than your typical beer garden. The food beer-braised lamb shank, baby back ribs, lemon roasted half chicken is pretty good, but it s the gourmet lagers and ales that account for the line out the door. One caveat: When the lower-level bar fills up, you practically have to shout to be heard. 2 Harrison St. (on the Embarcadero). & 415/243-8246. www.gordonbiersch.com.

FRENCH One of the city s veteran 2013 holidays contenders for best French restaurant stays in the spotlight with executive Chef Ron Siegel 2013 holidays s three-, six-, and nine-course tasting menus and an almost startlingly trendy (think hip hotelier Ian Schrager) room. Beyond the tiny bar and backlit white curtains 2013 holidays is the dark, sleek, and minimalist dining room with delightedly well spaced tables and cozy refinement. Menus vary, but are always creative. Think delicate seared scallops elevated both literally and figuratively by microgreens and a dab of decadent 2013 holidays uni (sea urchin) or savory skate balanced atop a short-rib ravioli bathed in a mushroom jus. In addition to the dessert menu, the candy cart adds a sweet finale as it s wheeled by so you can select lollipops, chocolates, and minicookies.

Finds North Beach romance awaits you at the Boh me. Although located in the center 2013 holidays of North Beach, this hotel s style and demeanor are more reminiscent of a prestigious home in upscale Nob Hill. The decor evokes the Beat generation, which flourished here in the 1950s; rooms are small but hopelessly romantic, with gauze-draped canopies and walls artistically accented with lavender, sage green, 2013 holidays black, and pumpkin. 2013 holidays The staff is ultra-hospitable, and bonuses include free sherry in the lobby each afternoon. Take note: While the bathrooms are sweet, they re also absolutely tiny (no tubs). Tip: Request a room off the street side; they re quieter. 444 Columbus Ave. (between Vallejo and Green sts.), San Francisco, CA 94133. & 415/433-9111. Fax 415/362-6292. www.hotelboheme.com. 15 units. 2013 holidays $149 $169 double. Rates include afternoon sherry. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $31 at nearby public garage. Cable car: Powell-Mason line. Bus: 12, 15, 30, 41, 45, or

surfrider The Lyon Street Steps, between Green Street and Broadway, comprise another historic stairway street,

The Lyon Street Steps, between Green Street and Broadway, comprise another historic stairway street, containing four steep sets of stairs totaling 288 steps. Begin at Green Street and climb all the way up, past manicured hedges surfrider and flower gardens, to an iron gate that opens into the Presidio. A block east, on Baker Street, another set of 369 steps descends to Green Street.

warehouse crammed to the rafters with Chinese baskets, Indian camel bells, Malaysian batik scarves, and innumerable other items from Algeria to Zanzibar. There s also a decent wine section. Adjoining is a Barnes & Noble superstore, at 2550 Taylor, between Bay and North Point (& 415/292-6762).

Farther west along the bay at the northern end of Fillmore, Marina Green is a favorite spot for flying kites or watching the sailboats on the bay. Next stop along the bay is the St. Francis Yacht Club. From here begins the 31 2-mile paved Golden Gate Promenade, surfrider a favorite biking-and-hiking path that defines the outer limits of the Presidio (see below) and leads to the fantastic and recently reestablished marshland preserve surfrider Crissy Field, which is the city s latest favorite playground and a seriously spectacular destination (make a point of it!), complete with sandy beach, lots of native birds, and jogging paths.

alligant air Conversely, driving in desert areas carries its own hazards: Always be aware of the distance to the

MEDITERRANEAN Enrico s is the most fun sidewalk restaurant and supper club destination on this North Beach strip. Families might want to skip this one, but anyone with an appreciation for live jazz (played nightly), late- night noshing, and people-watching from the patio would be quite content spending an alfresco evening under the heat lamps. alligant air (However, the best view of the band is from inside.) alligant air Chewy brick-oven pizza, a handful of pastas, zesty tapas, and thick steaks are hot items on the menu, which changes monthly. 504 Broadway (at Kearny St.). & 415/982-6223. www.enricossidewalkcafe.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7 $12 lunch, $11 $23 dinner. AE, MC, V. Sun Thurs 11:30am 11pm; Fri Sat 11:30am midnight; bar daily 11:30am 1:30am or earlier depending on patronage. Valet parking (dinner only) $10. Bus: 9X, 12, or 15.

Conversely, driving in desert areas carries its own hazards: Always be aware of the distance to the next gas station. In some areas, they may be 50 miles apart and summer temperatures well above 100 F (38 C) can turn a scenic drive into a disaster.

1 Ferry Plaza (at Embarcadero and Market). & 415/861-8032. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $8.50 $16; most dinner dishes $9 $27. AE, MC, V. Mon Sun 11:30am 2:30pm; Sun Thurs 5:30 10pm; Fri Sat 5:30 10:30pm. Streetcar: F or N. Bus: All Market St. buses.

new haven train station risotto, saut ed spinach, and oven-dried tomatoes. Finish the evening with an assortment of cheeses

risotto, saut ed spinach, and oven-dried tomatoes. Finish new haven train station the evening with an assortment of cheeses or a warm chocolate truffle torte with hazelnut ice cream, orange cr me anglaise, new haven train station and chocolate new haven train station sauce.

THE VICTORIAN LEGACY Jay Gifford, founder of Victorian Homes Historical Walking Tour (& 415/252-9485) new haven train station and San Francisco new haven train station resident for 2 decades, portrays his enthusiasm and love of San Francisco throughout new haven train station this entertaining 21 2-hour tour. Set at a leisurely place, it incorporates new haven train station a wealth of interesting facts about San Francisco s Victorian architecture, as well as the city s storied history particularly the periods before and after the great earthquake and fire of 1906. You ll stroll through Japantown, the Western Addition (where new haven train station you can take a break to cruise the trendy shops on Fillmore St.), and onward to Pacific Heights and Cow Hollow. In the process you ll see more than 200 meticulously restored Victorians, including the one where Mrs. Doubtfire was filmed. Jay s guests often find they are the only ones on the quiet neighborhood streets, where tour buses are forbidden. new haven train station The tour ends with a trolley ride back to Union Square, passing though new haven train station North Beach and Chinatown. Tours, which start at Union Square at 11am, are offered daily April through December and Thursday through Monday from January through March, and cost $20 per person. Reservations new haven train station are required. You can preview the tour at www.victorianwalk.com.

2355 Chestnut St. (between Divisadero and Scott sts.). & 415/771-2216. www.a16sf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses lunch $8 $10, dinner $14 $19. Wed Fri 11:30am 2:30pm; Sun Thurs 5 10pm; Fri Sat 5 11pm. Bus: 30 or 30X.