aventura songs Mario s Bohemian Cigar Store Finds ITALIAN Across the street from Washington Square is one of North

NORTH BEACH CAFE SOIREE Self-described coffeehouse lizard Elaine Sosa leads Javawalk, a 2-hour walking tour. Aside from visiting cafes, Javawalk also serves up a good share of historical and architectural trivia. Sosa keeps the tour interactive and fun, and it s obvious that she knows a wealth of tales and trivia about the history of coffee and its North Beach roots. aventura songs Tours are given Tuesday through Saturday at 10am and Tuesday through Friday for private parties of six or more. The price is $20 for adults and $10 for kids 12 and under. aventura songs For information and reservations, call & 415/673-9255.

Mario s Bohemian Cigar Store Finds ITALIAN aventura songs Across the street from Washington Square is one of North Beach s most popular neighborhood hangouts. The century-old bar small, well worn, and always busy is best known for its focaccia sandwiches, including meatball and eggplant. Wash it all down with an excellent cappuccino or a house Campari as you watch the tourists stroll by. And no, they do not sell cigars.

In the pages that follow, we ve compiled everything you need to know to handle the practical details of planning your trip from making campsite reservations to finding great deals on the Internet, plus a calendar of events and much more.

If an HIV-positive noncitizen applies for a nonimmigrant visa, the question on the application aventura songs regarding communicable diseases is tricky no matter which way it s answered. If the applicant checks no, INS may deny the visa on the grounds that the applicant committed aventura songs fraud. If the applicant checks yes or if INS suspects the person is HIV-positive, it will deny the visa unless the applicant asks for a special waiver for visitors. This waiver is for people visiting the United States for a short time, to attend a conference, for instance, to visit close relatives, or to receive medical treatment. For up-to-the-minute information, contact AIDSinfo (& 800/448-0440 or, outside the U.S., 301/519-0459; www.aidsinfo.nih.gov) or the Gay Men s Health Crisis (& 212/ 367-1000; www.gmhc.org).

houston aquarium Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in trav

Fisherman s Wharf North Beach runs into Fisherman s Wharf, which was once the busy heart of the city s great harbor and waterfront industries. Today it is a tacky-but-attractive tourist area with little if any authentic waterfront life, except for recreational boating and some friendly sea lions.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer s Budget Travel, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Cond Nast Traveler.

beacon hill staffing Still farther along the coast lie Point Lobos, the Sutro Baths, and the Cliff House. The latter has

Avoid carrying valuables with you on the street, and keep expensive cameras or electronic equipment bagged up or covered when not in use. If you re using a map, try to consult it inconspicuously or better beacon hill staffing yet, study it before you leave your room. Hold on to your pocketbook, and place your billfold beacon hill staffing in an inside pocket. In theaters, restaurants, beacon hill staffing and other public places, keep your possessions in sight.

Still farther along the coast lie Point Lobos, the Sutro Baths, and the Cliff House. The latter has been serving refreshments to visitors since 1863 and is slated to undergo renovation in the coming year. Here you can view the Seal Rocks, home to a colony of sea lions and marine birds. Only traces of the Sutro

The Stud The Stud has been around for over 30 years, is one of the most successful gay establishments in town, and is mellow enough for straights as well as gays. The interior has an antiques-shop look and a miniature train circling over the bar and dance floor. Music here is a balanced mix of old and new, and nights beacon hill staffing vary from cabaret and oldies to disco. Call in advance for the evening s venue. Drink prices range from $3 to $15. 399 Ninth St. (at Harrison St.). & 415/863-6623. www.studsf.com. Cover $2 $6 Fri Sat.

As for things to do in Carmel, we re now hip to Carmel Walks (& 831/ 642-2700), a tour guide company offering 2-hour guided walks through Carmel s gardens, hidden pathways, and fairy-tale-like cottages of bohemian writers, artists, beacon hill staffing and movie stars.

reelfoot lake Chestnut and Union Street bars attract a post-collegiate crowd. Young alternatives frequent Mission

Chestnut and Union Street bars attract a post-collegiate crowd. reelfoot lake Young alternatives frequent Mission District haunts. Upper Haight caters to eclectic neighborhood cocktailers. Lower Haight is skate- and snowboarder grungy. Tourists mix with theatergoers and thirsty businesspeople in downtown pubs. North Beach serves all types. Castro caters to gay locals and tourists. South of Market (SoMa) offers an eclectic mix. BARS WITH DJ GROOVES Bambuddha Lounge Finds The hottest place for the young and the trendy to feast, flirt, or just be fabulous is this restaurant/bar adjoining the funky-cool Phoenix Hotel. reelfoot lake With a 20-foot reclining reelfoot lake Buddha on the roof, ultramodern SanFrancisco- meets-Southeast-Asian decor (including waterfalls in the dining room.

Union Square WashingtonSquare SOUTH PARK Yerba Buena Gardens San Francisc reelfoot lake Oakland Bay Bridge SOMA TENDERLOIN NOB HILL CHINATOWN FINANCIAL DISTRICT TELEGRAPH HILL FISHERMAN S WHARF UNION SQUARE RUSSIAN HILL NORTH BEACH McAllister St.Market St. 15th St. FolsomHarrisonAlabama 9th St. 8th St. 10th St. 11th St. 12th St. Howard St. Bryant St. Brannan St. Townsend St. Alameda St. Division St. Berry St. Channel St. King St. 4th St. 5th St. Folsom St. 3rd St. Delancey St. 6th St. 7th St. 2nd St. Harrison St. Mission St. Moscone Convention Center 1st St. Union Square Steuart St. Fremont St. Beale St. Main St. Spear St. Justin Herman PlazaGrant Ave. Kearny St. Battery St. Front St. Davis St. Sansome St. Montgomery St. Drumm St. San Francisco- Oakland Bay Bridge Ferry Building (World Trade Center) Pier 19 Pier 17 Pier 15 Pier 9 Pier 7 Pier 5 Pier 3 Pier 1 Embarcadero Embarcadero Pier 35 Pier 33 Pier 31 Pier 27 Pier 23 North Point St. Bay St. Francisco St. Lombard St. Greenwich St. Filbert St. Union St. Jefferson St. Beach St. Pier 45 Pier 431/2 Pier 43 Pier 41 PIER 39Aquatic Park Chestnut St. Washington St. WashingtonSquare Sacramento St. Clay St. Van Ness Ave. Vallejo St. Broadway Tunnel reelfoot lake Taylor St. Mason St. Polk St. Larkin St. Hyde St. Leavenworth St. Sutter St. Post St. California St. Pine St. Bush St. Powell St. Stockton St. Geary St. O Farrell St. Eddy St. Jones St. Turk St. Golden Gate Ave. SOUTH PARK Ghirardelli Square Yerba Buena Gardens CIVIC CENTER San Francisco Bay Columbus Ave. Pacific Ave. Jackson St. Davis St. Market St. Green St. S. Van Ness Ave. Embarcadero 280101 101 101 101 101 80 80 KezarDr. Grove St. Fulton St. Hayes St. Fell St. Oak St. P A N H A N D L E GOLDEN GATE PARK PANHANDLE GOLDEN GATE PARK Kezar Stadium Pavilion McLaren Lodge Page St. Haight St. Frederick St. Beulah St. Stanyan St. Shrader St. Cole St. Cole St. ClaytonDowneyDelmar St. Belvedere St. Ashbury St. Masonic Ave. Waller St. JohnF.KennedyDr. ConservatoryDr. Carl St. Parnassus Ave. Haight-Ashbury 51 21 22 24 25 26 27 28 31 32 33 35 34 3637 38 3941 42 43 4044 45 46 47 49 50 48 29 30.

kings island ohio 704 Sutter St. (at Taylor St.). & 415/771-0803. www.sanraku.com. Main courses $6.25 $11 lunch, $10 $

704 Sutter St. (at Taylor St.). & 415/771-0803. www.sanraku.com. Main courses $6.25 $11 lunch, $10 $21 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon Sat lunch 11am 4pm, dinner 4 10pm; Sun 4 10pm. Cable car: Powell-Mason line. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 27, or 38.

For location and price, the Andrews is a safe bet for an enjoyable stay. Two blocks west of Union Square, the Andrews was a Turkish bath before its conversion in 1981. As is typical in Euro-style hotels, the rooms are small but well maintained and comfortable, with nice touches like lace curtains and fresh flowers. Recent upgrades included new mattresses, carpets (in most rooms), and fresh paint in the bathrooms. 624 Post St. (between Jones and Taylor sts.), San Francisco, CA 94109. & 800/926-3739 or 415/563-6877. Fax 415/928-6919. www.andrewshotel.com. 48 units (some with shower kings island ohio only). $109 $129 double;

222 Sansome St. (between Pine and California sts.), San Francisco, CA 94104. & 800/622-0404 or 415/276-9888. Fax 415/433-0289. www.mandarinoriental.com. kings island ohio 158 units. $470 $655 double; $675 $725 signature rooms; kings island ohio from $1,400 suite. Continental breakfast $21; American breakfast $32. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $36. Muni Metro: J, K, L, or M to Montgomery. Bus: All Market St. buses. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; fitness center; concierge; car rental; business center; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; laundry service; same-day kings island ohio dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, fax, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player, high-speed Internet access.

canyons resort Embassies & Consulates All embassies are located in the nation s capital, Washington, D.C. Some cons

Embassies & Consulates All embassies are located in the nation s capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn t listed below, call for directory information canyons resort in Washington, D.C. (& 202/555-1212) or log on to www.embassy.org/embassies.

Northern California may be frightfully demure in comparison, but in the long run, its subdued charms and natural beauty prevail. Wealth is certainly in abundance, but rarely displayed. The few hard bodies that exist are usually swathed in loose jeans and shirts. The few celebrities who live here keep very low profiles, and are more likely canyons resort to be on their ranches than on Rodeo Drive. Ostentation in any form is looked down upon (of course, it s okay to own a BMW, as long as it s slightly dirty), and unlike Los Angeles, you can actually explore smog-free San Francisco on foot.

splashtown san antonio Ruby Skye Downtown s most glamorous and gigantic nightspot is all aglitter thanks to a dramatic reno

Ruby Skye Downtown s most glamorous and gigantic nightspot is all aglitter thanks to a dramatic renovation and the addition of killer light and sound systems within the 1890s Victorian playhouse previously known as The Stage Door. Inside, hundreds of partiers boogie on the ballroom floor, mingle on the mezzanine, and puff freely in the smoking room while DJs or live music bring the dancing house down Thursday through Saturday. Big spenders should splashtown san antonio book the VIP lounge, which offers a glitzy place to kick it and bird s-eye views of the whole club scene. 420 Mason St. (between Geary and Post sts.). & 415/693-0777. www.rubyskye.com. Cover $10 $25.

MEXICAN While most restaurants gussy up their goods with high-priced decor and gimmicks, splashtown san antonio La Cumbre s celebrity is the burrito. Craftily constructed with fresh pork, steak, splashtown san antonio chicken, or vegetables, plus cheese,.

There are only three lines in the city, and they re concentrated in the downtown area. The most scenic, and exciting, is the Powell-Hyde line, which follows a zigzag route from the corner of Powell and Market streets, over both Nob Hill and Russian Hill, to a turntable at gaslit Victorian Square in front of Aquatic Park. The Powell-Mason line starts splashtown san antonio at the same intersection and climbs over Nob Hill before descending splashtown san antonio to Bay Street, just 3 blocks from Fisherman s Wharf. The least scenic is the California Street line, which begins at the foot of Market Street and runs a straight course through Chinatown and over Nob Hill to Van Ness Avenue. All riders must exit at the last stop and wait in line for the return trip. The cable-car system operates daily from approximately 6:30am splashtown san antonio to 1:30am.

downtown disney Sloat Blvd. at 47th Ave. and Great Hwy. & 415/753-7080.www.sfzoo.org. Admission to main zoo and Chil

Sloat Blvd. at 47th Ave. and Great Hwy. & 415/753-7080.www.sfzoo.org. Admission to main zoo and Children s Zoo $10 adults, $7 seniors and youths 12 17, $4 children 3 11, free for children under 3 accompanied by an adult; $1 discount with valid Muni transfer. Free to all 1st Wed of each month, except $2 fee for Children s Zoo. Carousel downtown disney $2. Main zoo daily 10am 5pm. Children s Zoo Mon Fri 11am 4pm; weekends and summer 10:30am 4:30pm. Metro: L from downtown Market St. to the end of the line.

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. For most airlines, you must report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, to your house or destination free of charge.

madrid airport FILLMORE STREET Some of the best shopping in town is packed into 5 blocks of Fillmore Street in Paci

MODERATE The Mosser Value Hip on the Cheap might best sum up the Mosser, a highly atypical budget hotel that incorporates Victorian architecture with modern interior design. It originally opened in 1913 as a luxury hotel, but a major multimillion-dollar renovation in the fall of 2001 transformed this aging charmer into a sophisticated, stylish, and surprisingly affordable option. Guest rooms are replete with original Victorian flourishes bay windows, high ceilings, hand-carved moldings and contemporary custom-designed furnishings, granite showers, stainless-steel fixtures, ceiling fans, Frette linens, and modern electronics. The least expensive rooms share a bathroom but are great deals with rates starting at $60. The location is excellent as well 3 blocks from Union Square, 2 blocks from MOMA and Moscone Convention Center, and half a block from the cable-car turnaround.

UNION STREET Union Street, from Fillmore to Van Ness, caters to the upper-middle-class crowd. It s a great place to stroll; to window-shop the plethora of boutiques, cafes, and restaurants; and to watch the beautiful people parade by. Bus lines include nos. 22, 41, 42, and 45.

CHINESE If you want a sure thing in Chinatown, go to R&G Lounge. madrid airport During lunch, both newly redecorated floors are packed with neighborhood workers who go straight to the $5 rice-plate specials. But you can also order from the dinner menu, which features madrid airport legendary (and very greasy and rich) deep-fried salt-and-pepper crab. My favorites include R&G s melt-in-yourmouth Special Beef, which explodes with the tangy flavor of the accompanying sauce; savory seafood in a clay pot; and delicious classic roast duck. 631 Kearny St. (at Clay St.). & 415/982-7877. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9 $30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon Thurs 11am 9:30pm; Fri 11am 10pm; Sat 11:30am madrid airport 10pm; Sun 11:30am 9:30pm. Parking validated across the street at Portsmouth Sq. garage or Holiday Inn after 5pm. Bus: 1, 9AX, 9BX, 12, or 15.

FILLMORE STREET Some of the best shopping in town is packed into 5 blocks of Fillmore Street in Pacific Heights. madrid airport From Jackson to Sutter madrid airport streets, Fillmore is the perfect place to grab a bite and peruse the boutiques, crafts shops, and housewares stores. It s serviced by bus lines 1, 2, 3, 4, 12, 22, and 24.

mazatlan Kids ITALIAN From the street, Tommaso s looks unappealing a drab brown facade sandwiched between sex

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the end of their visit to the United States, and (2) a tourist visa, which may be obtained from any U.S. consulate.

Less wearable but equally collectable are the oldies-but-goodies at Recycled Records, 1377 Haight St., between Central and Masonic streets (& 415/6264075). Easily one of the best used-record stores in the city, this loud shop has a good selection of promotional CDs and cases of used classic rock LPs. Sheet music, tour programs, and old TV Guides are also sold.

Kids ITALIAN From the street, Tommaso s looks unappealing a drab brown facade sandwiched between sex shops. Then why are people always waiting to get in? Because everyone knows Tommaso s has been packing them in since 1935. The center of attention in the dining room is the chef, who continuously tosses huge hunks of garlic and mozzarella onto pizzas before sliding them into the brick oven. Nineteen toppings make pizza the dish of choice, even though Italian classics mazatlan such as veal Marsala, chicken cacciatore, lasagna, and calzones mazatlan are available. Tommaso s also offers half-bottles of house wines, homemade manicotti, and Italian coffee. If you can overlook the seedy surroundings, this fun, boisterous restaurant mazatlan is a great place to take the family. 1042 Kearny St. (at Broadway). & 415/398-9696. www.tommasosnorthbeach.com. Reservations not accepted. Pasta and pizza $14 $24; main courses mazatlan $11 $18. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues Sat 5 10:30pm; Sun 4 9:30pm. Closed Dec 15 Jan 15. Bus: 15 or 41.

Though lack of health insurance may prevent you from being admitted to a hospital in nonemergencies, don t worry about being left on a street mazatlan corner to die: The American way is to fix you now and bill the living daylights out of you later.

duck tours boston CHAPTER 2. PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CALIFORNIA 44 information, including detailed maps. Also, many hote

Electricity Like Canada, the United States uses 110 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. If your small appliances use 220 240 volts, you ll need a 110volt transformer and a plug adapter with two flat parallel pins to operate them here. Downward converters that change 220 240 volts to 110 120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

In 2003 the TSA phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with e-tickets and without checked bags can still beat the ticket- counter lines by using electronic kiosks or even online check-in. Ask your airline which alternatives are available, and if you re using a kiosk, bring the credit card you used to book the ticket. duck tours boston If you re checking bags, you will still be able to use most airlines kiosks; call your airline for up-to-date information. Curbside check-in is a good way to avoid lines, although a few airlines duck tours boston still ban curbside check-in entirely; call before you go.

CHAPTER 2. PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CALIFORNIA 44 information, including detailed maps. Also, many hotels and attractions throughout California offer discounts to AAA members always ask. Call & 800/922-8228 or visit www.aaa. com for membership information.

wachusett mountain The cheapest way to downtown San Francisco (and easiest during traffic snarls) involves taking the s

The cheapest way to downtown wachusett mountain San Francisco (and easiest during wachusett mountain traffic snarls) involves taking the shuttle bus from the airport to BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit; & 510/464-6000; www.bart.gov). The AirBART shuttle bus runs about every 15 minutes Monday wachusett mountain through Saturday from 6am to 11:30pm and Sunday from 8:30am to 11:30pm, stopping in front of Terminals wachusett mountain 1 and 2 near the ground-transportation signs. The cost is $2 for the 10-minute ride to BART s Coliseum terminal, and tickets must be purchased at the airport s vending machines. BART fares vary, depending on your destination; the trip to downtown San Francisco costs $2.75 and takes 20 minutes once onboard. The entire excursion wachusett mountain should take around 45 minutes.

Lou s Pier 47 Club There are few locals in the place, but Lou s happens to be a good old-fashioned casual wachusett mountain spot where you can let your hair down with Cajun seafood (downstairs), other tourists, and live jazz, blues, rock, and country bands (upstairs). A vacation attitude makes the place one of the more sloppy happy spots near the wharf. There s a $5 cover on weekdays and a $10 cover on weekends for the first band, which plays nightly from 4 to 7pm. Arrive in time for the second, which comes on at 9pm, and it will cost you $10. 300 Jefferson St. (at Jones St.). & 415/771-5687. www.louspier47.com. Cover $5 $10.

harrahs kansas city Avoid excess charges and hidden costs. When you book a room, ask whether the hotel charges for parki

Avoid excess charges and hidden costs. When you book a room, ask whether the hotel charges for parking. Use your own cellphone, pay phones, harrahs kansas city or prepaid phone cards instead of dialing direct from hotel phones. And don t be tempted by the room s minibar offerings: Most hotels charge through the nose for water, soda, and snacks. Finally, ask about local taxes and service charges, which can increase the cost of a room by 15% or more. If a hotel insists upon tacking on a surprise energy surcharge that wasn t mentioned at check-in or a resort fee for amenities you didn t use, you can often make a case for getting it removed. Book an efficiency. A room with a kitchenette allows you to cook your own meals. This is a big money saver, especially harrahs kansas city for families on long stays. LANDING THE BEST ROOM

1 Mission St. (between Embarcadero and Steuart sts.). & 415/543-6084. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9 $17 lunch, $24 $32 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon Fri 11:30am 2:15pm; Sun Thurs 5:30 10pm; Fri Sat 5:30 10:30pm. Valet parking $12 lunch, $10 dinner. Bus: 15, 30, 32, or 45.

birch aquarium bonsai crossed by winding paths and high-arched bridges were it not for the hordes of tourists and s

HAIGHT STREET Green hair, spiked hair, no hair, or mohair even the hippies look conservative next to Haight Street s dramatic fashion freaks. The shopping in the 6 blocks of upper Haight Street, between Central Avenue and Stanyan Street, reflects birch aquarium its clientele and offers everything from incense and European and American street birch aquarium styles to furniture and vintage and bertrendy clothing. Bus lines 7, 66, 71, and 73 run down Haight Street. The Muni Metro N line stops at Waller Street and at Cole Street.

bonsai crossed by winding paths and high-arched bridges were it not for the hordes of tourists and screaming children who can all but destroy any semblance of peace. Come early to enjoy the places for contemplation, including the bronze Buddha that was cast in Japan in 1790 and donated by the Gump family, the Buddhist pagoda, and the Wishing Bridge, which reflected in the water looks as though it completes a circle. The garden is open daily November through February from 8:30am to 5pm (teahouse 10am 4:30pm), March through October from 8:30am to 6pm (teahouse 10am 5:30pm). For information on admissions, call & 415/752-4227. For the teahouse, call & 415/ 752-1171.

BY METRO STREETCAR birch aquarium Five of Muni s Metro streetcar lines, designated F, J, K, L, M, N, and S, run underground downtown and on the street in the outer neighborhoods. The sleek railcars make the same stops as BART (see below) along Market Street, including Embarcadero birch aquarium Station (in the Financial District), Montgomery and Powell streets (both near Union Sq.), and the Civic Center (near City Hall). Past the Civic Center, the routes branch off in different directions: The J line will take you to Mission Dolores; the K, L, and M lines to Castro birch aquarium Street; and the N line parallels Golden Gate Park and now extends all the way to the Embarcadero. Streetcars run about every 15 minutes, more frequently during birch aquarium rush hours. Service is offered Monday through Friday from 5am to 12:30am, on Saturday birch aquarium from 6am to 12:20am, and on Sunday from 8am to 12:20am. The L and N lines operate all day and all night.

wachusett mountain your hand forward, a hand comes out to touch you, and the hands pass in midair. Every exhibit is des

name our price game (though the site has recently added a feature that lets you purchase fares knowing wachusett mountain the airline and flight for a slightly higher set price). If you re new at this, the helpful folks at BiddingForTravel (www.biddingfortravel.com) do a good job of demystifying Priceline s prices. Priceline and Hotwire are great for flights within North America and between wachusett mountain the U.S. and Europe.

BY BUS Buses reach almost every corner of San Francisco and travel over the bridges to Marin County and Oakland. All are numbered and display their destinations on the front. Stops are designated by signs, curb markings, and yellow bands on utility poles. Most bus shelters exhibit Muni s transportation map and schedule. Many buses travel along Market wachusett mountain Street or near Union Square and run daily from about 6am to midnight, wachusett mountain after which there is infrequent all-night Owl service. For safety and convenience, avoid taking buses late at night.

your hand forward, a hand comes out to touch you, and the hands pass in midair. Every exhibit is designed to be used. You can whisper into a concave reflector and have a friend hear you 60 feet away, or you can design your own animated abstract art using sound. The museum is at the Palace of Fine Arts

brit marling of Morocco. Chef-owner Mourad Lahlou creates an excellent dining experience through colorful, distin

Big Bear Lake. Watch dozens of nighttime skiers follow a serpentine path down Snow Summit s ski slopes bearing glowing torches it s one of the state s loveliest traditions. Afterward, the party continues indoors with live bands and plenty to eat and drink. For more information on this 21-and-over brit marling event, call & 909/866-5766 or visit www.big bearmountainresorts.com.

of Morocco. Chef-owner Mourad Lahlou creates an excellent dining experience through colorful, distinctly Moroccan surroundings and his modern, but still authentic, take on the food of his homeland. In any of the three opulently brit marling adorned dining rooms, you might glimpse belly dancers gyrating (Thurs Sun) as you indulge in the affordable five-course tasting menu ($39) or individual treats such as saffron Cornish hen with preserved lemon and olives, or lavender honey-braised squab. Finish off with the rhubarb galette with rose- and geranium- scented cr me fr iche, vanilla aspic, and rhubarb consomm.

hainan airlines Monterey Jazz Festival. Features top names in traditional and modern jazz. One of the oldest annual

Monterey Jazz Festival. Features top names in traditional and modern jazz. One of the oldest annual jazz festivals in the world. Log on to the festival s website for more information: www.montereyjazzfest.com. Mid-September.

54 Fourth St. (at Market St.), San Francisco, CA 94103. hainan airlines & 800/227-3804 or 415/986-4400. Fax 415/495-4091. www.themosser.com. 166 units, 112 with bathroom. $109 $179 with bathroom; $59 $89 without bathroom. Rates include safe-deposit boxes, fax, and mail services. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking hainan airlines $27. Metro: F, and all underground Muni and BART. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; 24-hr. concierge; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: TV, direct-dial telephone with dataport and voice mail, hair dryer, iron and board, AM/FM stereo with CD player, ceiling fan.

Another nature excursion is the University of California Botanical Garden, in Strawberry Canyon on Centennial hainan airlines Drive (& 510/643-2755; hainan airlines http:// botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu), which features a vast collection of plant life ranging from cacti to redwoods.

vamoose bus Rafting Scenic Northern California Rivers: You can white- water raft through thrilling cascades of r

FRENCH One of the city s veteran vamoose bus contenders for best French restaurant stays in the spotlight with executive Chef Ron Siegel vamoose bus s three-, six-, and nine-course tasting menus and an almost startlingly trendy (think hip hotelier vamoose bus Ian Schrager) room. Beyond the tiny bar and backlit white curtains is the dark, sleek, and minimalist vamoose bus dining room with delightedly well spaced tables and cozy refinement. Menus vary, but are always vamoose bus creative. Think delicate seared scallops elevated both literally and figuratively vamoose bus by microgreens and a dab of decadent uni (sea urchin) or savory skate balanced atop a short-rib ravioli bathed in a mushroom jus. In addition to the dessert menu, the candy cart adds a sweet finale as it s wheeled by so you can select lollipops, vamoose bus chocolates, and minicookies.

The Warwick Regis Value Louis XVI might have been a rotten vamoose bus monarch, vamoose bus but he certainly had taste. Fashioned in the style of pre-Revolutionary France, the Warwick is awash with French and English antiques, vamoose bus Italian marble, chandeliers, four-poster beds, hand-carved vamoose bus headboards, and the like. The result is an expensive-looking hotel that, for all its perks, is surprisingly affordable compared to its Union Square contemporaries. Rooms can be on the small side, but they re some of the city s most charming. Bathrooms are charming but small. Honeymooners should splurge on the fireplace rooms with canopy beds. Adjoining the lobby is La Scene Caf , a beautiful place to start your day with a latte and end it with a nightcap.

Rafting Scenic Northern California Rivers: You can white- water raft through thrilling cascades of raging Class IV water or float through tranquil vamoose bus vistas vamoose bus of blue skies, vamoose bus deep forests, and wildlife. Depending on the river and the time of year, some trips are okay for children over age 6. See chapters 7 and 8.

wolf trap 2011 For golfers, there s Half Moon Bay Golf Links, 2000 Fairway Dr., at the south end of Half Moon Bay n

For golfers, there s Half Moon Bay Golf Links, 2000 Fairway Dr., at the south end of Half Moon Bay next to the Half Moon Bay Lodge (& 650/7264438; www.halfmoonbaygolf.com). Designed by Arnold wolf trap 2011 Palmer, the ocean-side 18-hole course has been rated among the top 100 courses in the country, as well as the best in the Bay Area. Greens fees range from $145 to $170. Reserve your tee time as far in advance as possible. wolf trap 2011

FRENCH Diners are crammed into the 45-seat dining area of this cheery small dining room, but the French tapas are so delicious and affordable, no one seems to care. Indeed, this friendly, fast-paced neighborhood haunt has become a blueprint for other restaurants that understand the allure wolf trap 2011 of small plates. But Chez Nous stands out as more than a petite-portion trendsetter. Most of its Mediterranean dishes taste so clean and fresh you can t wait to come back again. Start with the soup, whatever it is; don t skip tasty french fries with harissa aioli; savor the lamb chops with lavender sea salt; and save room for their famed dessert, the mini custard cake like canneles de Bordeaux. 1911 Fillmore St. (between Pine and Bush sts.). & 415/441-8044. Reservations wolf trap 2011 recommended. Main courses $3.50 $12. MC, V. Daily 11:30am 3pm and 5:30 10pm (Fri Sat until 11pm). Bus: 22, 41, or 45.

holidays in 2012 3.8 liters or.85 imperial gallons. Holidays Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores

3.8 liters or.85 imperial gallons. Holidays Banks, government offices, post offices, holidays in 2012 and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year s Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther holidays in 2012 King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents Day, Washington s Birthday), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). holidays in 2012 Also, the Tuesday following the first Monday in November is Election Day and is a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2008). Legal Aid If you are pulled holidays in 2012 over for a minor infraction (such as speed

This is the best B&B option holidays in 2012 in the Castro, and one of the best in the entire city. The gay-friendly, 5,000-square-foot, beautifully restored Edwardian home is a few blocks from the heart of Castro s action. The bright, cheery urban compound boasts period antiques, and spacious guest rooms are wonderfully appointed with smart, patterned furnishings, voice mail, robes, and a spotless private bathroom (plus amenities) en suite or across the hall. A fire burns nightly in the cozy living room, and guests are welcome to make themselves at home in the wood-paneled common library (with fireplace and piano), sunny breakfast room overlooking the garden, and spacious garden with fountains and a steam room. 520 Church St. (between 17th and 18th sts.), San Francisco, CA 94114. & 888/520-7275 holidays in 2012 or 415/621-3222. Fax 415/621-4139. www.parkerguesthouse.com. 21 units. $119 $200 double; $200 junior suite. Rates include extended holidays in 2012 continental breakfast and evening wine and cheese. holidays in 2012 AE, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking $15. Streetcar: J Church. Bus: 22 or 33. Amenities: Access holidays in 2012 to nearby health club; steam room; concierge, wireless computer access. In room: TV, dataport, hair dryer, iron.

hoover dam CITY STAIR-CLIMBING You don t need a StairMaster in San Francisco. The Filbert Street Steps, 377 of

CITY STAIR-CLIMBING You don t need a StairMaster in San Francisco. The Filbert Street Steps, 377 of them between Sansome Street hoover dam and Telegraph Hill, scale the eastern face of Telegraph Hill, from Sansome and Filbert past 19th-century cottages and lush gardens. Napier Lane, a wooden plank walkway, leads to Montgomery Street. Turn right and follow the path to the end of the cul-de-sac, where another stairway continues to Telegraph s panoramic summit.

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn t mean it ll work elsewhere in the country (thanks to our nation s fragmented cellphone system). It s a good bet that your phone will work in major cities. But take a look at your wireless company s coverage map on its website before heading out T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are particularly weak in rural areas. If you need to stay in touch at a destination where you know your phone won t work, rent a phone that does from InTouch USA (& 800/8727626; www.intouchglobal.com) or a rental-car location, but beware that you ll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.

Even without going inside the building, hoover dam this spot is one of San Francisco s most beautiful. Designed as a memorial to California s World War I casualties, the neoclassical structure is an exact replica of the Legion of Honor Palace in Paris, down to the inscription HONNEUR ET PATRIE above the portal. Reopened after a 2-year, $29-million renovation and upgrading project that was stalled by the discovery of almost 300 coffins, the museum s collection contains hoover dam paintings, sculpture, and decorative arts from Europe, as well as tapestries, prints, and drawings. The chronological display of more than 800 years of European art includes a collection of Rodin sculpture. The clincher: Grassy expanses and astounding views of the Golden Gate. In Lincoln Park (34th Ave. and Clement St.). & 415/750-3600, or 415/863-3330 (recorded information). www.thinker.org. Admission $8 adults, $6 seniors 65 and over, $5 youths 12 17, free for children under 12. Fees may be higher for special exhibitions. Free to all on Tues. Tues Sun 9:30am 5pm. Bus: 18 or 38.

When the Embarcadero Freeway was torn down after the Big One in 1989, one of the major benefactors was this hotel, whose backyard view went from a wall of cement to a view of the Bay Bridge (a bay-view room costs extra). Just off the Embarcadero at the edge of the Financial District, this former YMCA books a lot of corporate travelers, but anyone who prefers stylish, high-quality accommodations half-canopy beds, large armoires, writing desks, soundproof hoover dam windows and a lively scene will be content here. 165 Steuart St. (between Mission and Howard sts.), San Francisco, CA 94105. & 800/346-0555 or 415/882-1300. Fax 415/882-1313. www.harborcourthotel.com. 131 units. $165 $399 double. Continental breakfast $15. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking $32. Muni Metro: Embarcadero. Bus: 14, 32, or 80X. Pets accepted. hoover dam Amenities: Access to adjoining health club and large, heated indoor pool; courtesy car; room service (breakfast only); same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, fax, dataport, minibar, hoover dam hair dryer, iron, safe.

golden princess tradition at the Hollywood Bowl, where festival goers pack their picnic baskets and enjoy music, bal

tradition at the Hollywood Bowl, where festival goers pack their picnic baskets and enjoy music, ballet folkl rico (Mexican folk dancing), and related performances golden princess by special guests. Call & 323/848-7717. Late June.

San Francisco was also a popular setting for many early works, including Twain s San Francisco, a collection of articles that glorified the liveliest, heartiest community golden princess on our continent. It was also the birthplace of Jack London, who wrote several short stories of his younger days as an oyster

THE WINE COUNTRY Fab food is still a big draw in Napa Valley, and two new additions up the culinary golden princess ante. Famed French Laundry chef Thomas golden princess Keller has opened Bouchon Bakery, 6528 Washington St., Yountville (& 707/944-2253), next

San Diego County Fair. Referred to as the Del Mar Fair by locals, this is the other big happening (besides horse racing) at the Del Mar Fairgrounds. The whole county turns out for the 3-week event, with livestock competitions, rides, flower and garden golden princess shows, food and craft booths, carnival games, and home- arts exhibits; concerts by name performers are included golden princess with admission. golden princess Call & 858/793-5555, or check www.sdfair.com. Mid-June through early July.

new york 529 UNION STREET Union Street, from Fillmore to Van Ness, caters to the upper-middle-class crowd. It s a

Lou s Pier 47 Club There are few locals new york 529 in the place, new york 529 but Lou s happens to be a good old-fashioned casual spot where you can let your hair down with Cajun seafood (downstairs), other tourists, and live jazz, blues, rock, and country bands (upstairs). A vacation attitude makes the place one of the more sloppy happy spots near the wharf. There s a $5 cover on weekdays and a $10 cover on weekends for the first band, which plays nightly from 4 to 7pm. Arrive in time for the second, which comes on at 9pm, and it will cost you $10. 300 Jefferson St. (at Jones St.). & 415/771-5687. www.louspier47.com. Cover $5 $10.

I ve also added a couple of great cabin-style lodgings on the lake: the North Lake Lodge, 8716 N. Lake Blvd. (& 888/923-5253), offering lakeside cabins for as little as $60 a night; and the Tamarack Lodge, 2311 N. Lake Blvd. (& 888/8246323), which has been around so long that Clark Gable and Gary Cooper played new york 529 poker in these gleaming knotty-pine cabins new york 529 secreted among pines.

U.S. cities, it can also be slow, uncomfortable, new york 529 and chock-full of nutcases certainly not an option for everyone (particularly when Amtrak, which is far more luxurious, offers similar rates). Greyhound/Trailways new york 529 (& 800/231-2222; www.greyhound. com), the sole nationwide bus line, offers an International Ameripass that must be purchased before coming to the United States, or by phone through the Greyhound International Office at the Port Authority Bus Terminal in New York City (& 212/9710492). The pass can be obtained from foreign travel agents or through Greyhound s website (order at least 21 days before your departure to the U.S.) and costs less than the domestic version. Passes new york 529 were priced as follows in 2004: 4 days ($160), 7 days ($219), 10 days ($269), 15 days ($329), 21 days ($379), 30 days ($439), 45 days ($489), or 60 days ($599). You can get more info on the pass at the website or

UNION STREET Union Street, from Fillmore to Van Ness, caters to the upper-middle-class crowd. It s a great place to stroll; to window-shop the plethora of boutiques, cafes, and restaurants; and to watch the beautiful people parade by. Bus lines include nos. 22, 41, 42, and 45.

carneros inn Thirsty Bear Brewing Company Seven superb, handcrafted varieties of brew are always on tap at this s

1015 Battery St. (at Green St.). & 415/391-2555. carneros inn www.piperade.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15 $18. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon Fri 11:30am 3pm; Mon Sat 5:30 10:30pm. Bus: 10, 12, 30, or 82x.

Thirsty Bear Brewing Company Seven superb, handcrafted varieties of brew are always on tap at this stylish high-ceilinged brick edifice. Excellent Spanish food, too. Pool tables and dartboards are upstairs, and flamenco music can be heard on Sunday nights. 661 Howard St. (1 block east of the Moscone Center). & 415/974-0905. www.thirstybear.com.

hard rock albuquerque Telegraph and telex services are provided primarily by Western Union. You can bring your telegram in

Telegraph and telex services are provided primarily by Western Union. You can bring your telegram into the nearest Western Union office (there are hundreds across the country) or dictate it over the phone (& 800/3256000). You can also telegraph money, or have it telegraphed to you, very quickly over the Western Union system, hard rock albuquerque but this service can cost as much as 15% to 20% of the amount sent.

Taxes California s state sales tax is 7.25%. Some cities include an additional percentage or fraction, so the tax varies throughout the state; for example, it s 7.75% in San Diego, hard rock albuquerque 8.25% in Los Angeles, and 8.5% in San Francisco. Hotel taxes are almost always higher than tariffs levied on goods and services.

trip advisor San Francisco was also a popular setting for many early works, including Twain s San Francisco, a co

San Francisco was also a popular setting for many early works, including Twain s San Francisco, a collection of articles that glorified the liveliest, heartiest community on our continent. It was also the birthplace of Jack London, who wrote several short stories of his younger days as an oyster

490 Geary St. (between Mason and Taylor sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/827-3447 or 415/928-7900. Fax 415/441-8788. www.warwicksf.com. 80 units. $119 $159 double; $159 $269 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $28. Cable car: Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 27, or 38. Amenities: Restaurant; access to nearby health club ($15 per day); concierge; business center; secretarial services; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: TV, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe, wireless Internet access.

belvita For information on state parks, contact the Department of Parks and Recreation, P.O. Box 942896, Sac

INFORMATION ON CALIFORNIA S PARKS To find out more about California s national parks, contact the Pacific West Region Information Center, National Park Service, 1111 Jackson St., Suite 700, Oakland, CA 94607 (& 510/817-1300; www.

For information on state parks, contact the Department belvita of Parks and Recreation, P.O. Box 942896, belvita Sacramento, CA 94296-0001 (& 800/ 777-0369; http://cal-parks.ca.gov). Thousands of campsites are on the department s reservation system and can be booked up to 8 weeks in advance by calling Park-Net at & 800/444-PARK. You can also get reservations information online at www.reserveamerica.com.

kaaterskill falls The Fitzgerald Value The Fitzgerald s guest accommodations may be outfitted with newish furniture an

For you mystery buffs headed to California, two must-reads include Frank Norris kaaterskill falls s McTeague: A Story of San Francisco, a tale of love and greed set at the turn of the 20th century, and Dashiell Hammett s The Maltese Falcon, a detective novel that captures the seedier kaaterskill falls side of San Francisco in the 1920s. Another favorite is Raymond Chandler s The Big Sleep, in which Philip Marlowe explores the darker side of Los Angeles in the 1930s.

Wish Bar Flirtation, fun, and an attractive staff await at this mellow, kaaterskill falls narrow bar in the popular area around 11th and Folsom streets. Swathed in burgundy and black with exposed cinderblock walls and cement floors, all s aglow a la candlelight and red-shaded sconces. With a bar in the front, a DJ spinning housey kaaterskill falls lounge music in the back, and seating including cushy leather couches in between, it s often packed with a diverse (albeit youthful) crowd and ever filled with eye candy. 1539 Folsom St. (between 11th and 12th sts.). & 415/278-9474.

The Fitzgerald Value The Fitzgerald s guest accommodations may be outfitted with newish furniture and sweet striped wallpaper, and accented with bright bedspreads and patterned carpet, but some of the rooms are really small. (One I saw had a dresser less than a foot from the bed.) Of course, at $80 a night there s no room for complaining. But do ask for a larger room. If you can live without a sizable closet, you ll find that the price, breakfast (home-baked breads, muffins, juice, tea, and coffee), and cleanliness make it a good value. Note: The view of the Golden Gate on their brochure is not actually visible from the hotel.

49. Amenities: Bar; access to nearby health club ($10 per day); concierge; 24-hr. kaaterskill falls room service; in-room massage; babysitting; same-day laundry/dry-cleaning service. In room: TV, dataport, fridge in some rooms, hair dryer, iron, wireless Internet access. MODERATE The Queen Anne Hotel Value This majestic 1890 Victorian is a charming boutique hotel that remains true to its heritage kaaterskill falls and emulates San Francisco s golden days. The lavish grand salon greets you with oak paneling and antiques; rooms follow suit with armoires, kaaterskill falls marble-top dressers, and other period pieces. Some have corner turret bay windows that look out onto tree-lined streets, kaaterskill falls plus separate parlor areas and wet bars; others have cozy reading nooks and fireplaces. All rooms have phones kaaterskill falls in the bathroom, computer hookups, and fridges. You can relax in the parlor, with its floor-to-ceiling fireplace, or in the hotel library. kaaterskill falls Amenities include complimentary afternoon tea and sherry.

basin harbor club Passengers who can book their tickets long in advance, who can stay over Saturday night, or who fly

4 Where to Dine San Francisco s dining scene is one of the best in the world. Below is a cross section of San Francisco s best restaurants in every price range. For a greater selection of reviews, see Frommer s San Francisco 2005 or Frommer s San Francisco from $70 a Day.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Berkeley Convention & Visitors Bureau, basin harbor club 2015 Center St., Berkeley, CA 94703 (& 800/847-4823 or 510/549-7040; www.berkeleycvb.com), basin harbor club can answer your questions and even find accommodations for you.

In the upstairs cafe are displays of pastries and fruit and an oak bar adorned with large bouquets of fresh flowers. At lunch or dinner, the menu might feature delicately basin harbor club smoked gravlax or roasted eggplant soup with pesto, followed by lamb ragout garnished with apricots, basin harbor club onions, and spices and served with couscous. basin harbor club

Passengers who can book their tickets long in advance, who can stay over Saturday night, or who fly midweek or at less-trafficked hours will pay substantially less than full fare. If your schedule is flexible, say so, and ask if you can secure a cheaper fare by changing your flight plans. You can also save on airfares by keeping an eye out in local newspapers for promotional specials or fare wars, when airlines lower prices on their most popular routes. You rarely see fare wars offered for peak travel times, but if you can travel in the off-months, you may snag a bargain. Search the Internet for cheap fares (see Planning Your Trip Online, earlier in this chapter). Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, are great sources for international basin harbor club tickets, although they usually can t beat the Internet on fares within North America. Start by looking in the travel sections of major newspapers at home. Beware: Bucket shop tickets are usually nonrefundable or have stiff cancellation penalties, often as high as 50% to 75% of the price, and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available on the Net. STA Travel (www.statravel.com) is now the world s leader basin harbor club in student travel, thanks to its purchase of Council basin harbor club Travel. It also offers good fares for travelers of all ages. Flights. com (www.flights.com) basin harbor club started in Europe and now has excellent fares worldwide. FlyCheap (& 800/ FLY-CHEAP; www.1800flycheap. com) is owned by package-holiday megalith MyTravel and so has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations. Air Tickets Direct (& 800/778-3447; www. airticketsdirect.com) is based in Montreal and leverages the currently weak Canadian dollar for low fares.

obitz In the Sir Francis Drake hotel, 432 Powell St. (at Sutter St.). & 415/395-8555. Reservations recomme

If you re considering travel by rail along the California coast, or even as far north as Seattle, treat yourself to a ride aboard Amtrak s luxurious Coast Starlight. In an effort to recapture the glory days of 1940s Streamline obitz luxury liners, Amtrak has pulled out all the stops on these double- decker Superliners, complete with a gourmet dining car, first-class and coach lounge cars, standard and deluxe sleeping compartments, and enough diversions (including feature-length films, live entertainment, games for kids and adults, and a full bar) to make the 35-hour trip a pleasure. All sleeping-car fares include three meals daily, prepared onboard with an emphasis on regional flavor, and wines from Washington, Oregon, and California, as well as seasonal specials from along the Coast Starlight s route.

1 Mission St. (between Embarcadero and Steuart sts.). & 415/543-6084. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9 $17 lunch, $24 $32 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon Fri 11:30am 2:15pm; Sun Thurs 5:30 10pm; Fri Sat 5:30 10:30pm. Valet parking $12 lunch, $10 dinner. Bus: 15, 30, 32, or 45.

In the Sir Francis obitz Drake hotel, 432 Powell St. (at Sutter St.). & 415/395-8555. Reservations recommended. Breakfast $7 $10; main courses $12 $24 lunch and dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon Fri 7 10:30am; Sat Sun 8 10:30am; daily 11:30am 4pm and 5:15pm midnight. Cable car: Powell-Hyde line. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 30, 45, or 76.

icon parking coupons to look at the local websites: For instance, the San Diego Convention and Visitors Bureau (& 800/350

But there s more a lot more to California that isn t scripted, icon parking coupons sanitized, and broadcast to the world s mesmerized masses. Beyond the glitter and glamour is an incredibly diverse state that, if it ever seceded from the Union, icon parking coupons would be a productive and powerful nation. We ve got it all: redwood forests, an incredibly icon parking coupons verdant Central Valley, the Sierra Nevada, deserts, a host of world-renowned cities, and hundreds icon parking coupons of miles of stunning coastline.

If you re considering travel by rail along the California coast, icon parking coupons or even as far north as Seattle, treat yourself to a ride aboard Amtrak s luxurious Coast Starlight. In an effort to recapture the glory days of 1940s Streamline luxury liners, Amtrak has pulled out all the stops on these double- decker Superliners, complete with a gourmet dining car, first-class and coach lounge icon parking coupons cars, standard and deluxe sleeping compartments, and enough diversions (including feature-length films, live entertainment, games for kids and adults, and a full bar) to make the 35-hour trip a pleasure. All sleeping-car fares include three meals daily, prepared onboard with an emphasis on regional flavor, and wines from Washington, Oregon, and California, as well as seasonal specials from along the Coast Starlight icon parking coupons s route.

to look at the local websites: For instance, the San Diego Convention and Visitors Bureau (& 800/3506205; www.sandiego.org) has its own booking engine for packages incorporating air, hotel, and activities. Also note that the Walt Disney Travel Company (& 714/520-5047; www.disney.com) is one of the state s largest tour operators, featuring packages that go well beyond the Magic Kingdom.

cyberrentals I ve also included a couple of my favorite new South Lake restaurants: The Naked Fish, 3940 Lake Tah

Although the San Francisco Oakland Bay Bridge is visually cyberrentals less appealing cyberrentals than the Golden Gate Bridge, it is in many ways more spectacular. Opened in 1936, before the Golden Gate, at 81 miles long it s one of the world s longest

INEXPENSIVE Swan Oyster Depot Finds SEAFOOD Swan Oyster Depot is a San Francisco experience cyberrentals you shouldn t miss. Opened cyberrentals in 1912, this hole-in-the-wall boasts 20 or so seats, jammed cheek-by-jowl along a marble bar. Most patrons come for a cup of chowder or a plate of oysters that arrive chilling on crushed ice. The menu is limited to fresh crab, shrimp, oyster, clam cocktails, Maine lobster, and Boston-style clam chowder, all of which are exceedingly fresh. Note: Don t let the lunchtime cyberrentals line dissuade you it moves fast.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most public libraries offer Internet access free or for a small charge. Hotels that cater to business travelers often have in-room dataports and business cyberrentals centers, but the charges can be exorbitant. Also, most youth hostels nowadays

I ve also included a couple of my favorite new South Lake restaurants: cyberrentals The Naked Fish, 3940 Lake Tahoe Blvd. (& 530/541-3474), by far the best sushi bar in Tahoe, complete with Japanese cyberrentals chefs who love to party; and Ivano s, 605 Hwy. 50 (& 775/5861070), an intimate 10-table room serving Tahoe s best Italian cuisine.

google travel Pretend you re a local: Plant yourself at a cafe, sip a latte, and ponder something intellectual whi

the latest arrivals. The eatery has more than a dozen affectionately kitschy Tiki gods and masks custom-carved by San Diego Poly-pop lover Bosko Hrnjak. No one visits San Diego without experiencing one of the city s fantastic animal parks, and there s news at all three this year. Continuing its move toward ride-type enhancements, SeaWorld, 500 SeaWorld Dr. (& 619/226-3901), debuted Journey to Atlantis, a water-coaster taking guests on a splash-filled ride. At the

Pretend you re a local: google travel Plant yourself at a cafe, sip a latte, and ponder something intellectual while you survey the populace bustling by. Bibliophiles must stop at Cody s Books, 2454 Telegraph Ave. (& 510/845-7852; google travel www.cody books.com), to peruse its huge selection of titles, independent-press books, and magazines. For used and antique books, stop by Moe s Books, 2476 Telegraph Ave. (& 510/849-2087; www.moesbooks.com). With four floors of new, used, and out-of-print books, you re not likely to leave empty-handed.

moline airport You can pick up a passport application at one of 28 regional passport offices or most travel agencie

IMMIGRATION & CUSTOMS moline airport CLEARANCE Visitors moline airport arriving by air, no matter what the port of entry, should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. Getting through moline airport immigration control

You can pick up a passport application at one of 28 regional passport moline airport offices or most travel moline airport agencies. Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires. Passports cost C$85 for those 16 years and older (valid 5 years), C$35 for children 3 to 15 (valid 5 years), and C$20 for children under 3 (valid 3 years). Applications, which must be accompanied by two identical passport-size photographs and proof of Canadian citizenship, are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (& 800/567-6868; www. dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport). Processing takes 5 to 10 days if you apply in person, or about 3 weeks by mail.

Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravel files.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-thebeaten- path tours and tour operators for families.

It may be small and lack common areas, but the boutique Prescott Hotel has some big things going for it. The staff treats you like royalty, moline airport rooms are attractively unfrilly and masculine, the location (just a block from Union Sq.) is perfect, and limited room service is provided by one of the most popular downtown restaurants, Postrio. Ralph Lauren fabrics moline airport in dark tones of green, plum, and burgundy blend well with the cherrywood furnishings in each of the soundproof rooms; the view, alas, isn t so pleasant. The very small bathrooms contain moline airport terry robes and Aveda products, and the suites have Jacuzzi bathtubs. Concierge-level i.e., higher-paying guests are pampered with a free continental breakfast, evening cocktails and hors d oeuvres, and, 3 days per week, even head-and-shoulders massages. 545 Post St. (between Mason and Taylor sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/283-7322 or 415/563-0303. Fax 415/563-6831. www.prescotthotel.com. 164 units. $275 $340 double; $300 concierge-level double (including breakfast and evening cocktail reception); from $365 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $35. Cable car: Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines (1 block east). Bus: 2, 3, 4, 30, 38, or 45. Amenities: Restaurant/ bar; small exercise room; concierge; limited courtesy car; limited room service. In room: TV w/pay movies, fax/printer, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe, video games, high-speed Internet access.

mckittrick hotel (& 800/275-8777). Safety Few locals would recommend walking alone late at night in certain areas, pa

PREPARING FOR YOUR TRIP 55 claimed them within the preceding mckittrick hotel 6 months. It is forbidden to bring in foodstuffs (particularly fruit, cooked meats, and canned goods) and plants (vegetables, seeds, tropical plants, and the like). Foreign tourists may bring in or take out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency mckittrick hotel with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs, which includes filing form CM 4790. For more specific information regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, contact your nearest

Just off the northern end of the Golden Gate Bridge mckittrick hotel is the eclectic little town of Sausalito, a slightly bohemian, nonchalant, and quaint adjunct to San Francisco. With approximately 8,000 residents, Sausalito feels rather like St. Tropez on the French Riviera minus the starlets and the European aristocracy. It has its quota of paper millionaires, but they rub permanently suntanned shoulders with a good number of hard-up artists, struggling authors, shipyard workers, and fishers. Next to the swank restaurants, plush bars, and antiques shops and galleries, you ll see hamburger joints, beer parlors, and secondhand bookstores.

(& 800/275-8777). Safety Few locals would recommend walking alone late at night in certain areas, particularly the Tenderloin, between Union Square and the Civic Center. mckittrick hotel Compared to other cities, however, mckittrick hotel even this section of San Francisco is relatively tranquil. Other areas where you should be alert are

Ferries of the Blue & Gold Fleet (& 415/705-5555; www.blueandgoldfleet. com) leave from Pier 41 (Fisherman s Wharf) and cost $6.50 one-way, $4 for kids 5 to 11, and free for children under 5. Boats run on a seasonal schedule; phone or check out the website for departure information. mckittrick hotel

idaho falls airport Festival of Arts & Pageant of the Masters, Laguna Beach. A fantastic performance-art production in w

DANCE CLUBS Nickie s Bar-be-cue Don t come here for dinner the only hot thing you ll find is the small, crowded dance floor. But don t let that stop you from checking it out. Every time I come here, the old-school hits are in full force, casually dressed dancers lose all inhibitions, and the crowd is mixed with all types of friendly San Franciscans. This place is perpetually hot, so dress accordingly, and don t expect a full bar it s beer and wine only. 460 Haight St. (between Fillmore and Webster sts.). & 415/621-6508. www.nickies.com. Cover $3 $5.

Festival of Arts & Pageant of the Masters, Laguna Beach. A fantastic performance-art production in which actors recreate famous old- masters paintings. Other festivities include live music, crafts sales, art demonstrations and workshops,

hotel transylvania In addition to the hotels below, I also recommend those represented by the reasonably priced and fas

chair) in the same room, it s a supper club that s my criteria. Harry Denton s Starlight Room Come dressed to the nines or in casual attire to this old-fashioned cocktail-lounge-turned-nightclub, where tourists and locals sip drinks at sunset and boogie down to live swing and big-band hotel transylvania tunes after dark. The room is classic 1930s San Francisco, with red-velvet banquettes, chandeliers, and fabulous views. But what really attracts hotel transylvania flocks of all ages is a night of Harry Denton style fun, which usually includes plenty of drinking and unrestrained dancing. Atop the Sir Francis Drake hotel, 450 Powell St., 21st floor. & 415/ 395-8595. www.harrydenton.com. Cover $10 Wed after 7pm; $5 Thurs after 8pm; $10 Fri after 8pm; $15 Sat after 8pm.

181 Third St. (between Mission and Howard sts.), San Francisco, hotel transylvania CA 94103. & 800/877-WHOTEL or 415/777-5300. Fax 415/817-7823. www.whotels.com/sanfrancisco. 423 units. From $469 double; from $1,000 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40. Streetcar: J, K, L, or M to Montgomery. Bus: 15, 30, or 45. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; heated atrium pool and Jacuzzi; fitness center; spa; concierge; business center; secretarial services; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning, WiFi in public spaces. In room: A/C, TV/VCR w/pay movies and Internet access, fax, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player, wireless phone. hotel transylvania

In addition to the hotels below, hotel transylvania I also recommend those represented by the reasonably priced and fashionable Joie de Vivre chain (& 800/SF-TRIPS; hotel transylvania www.sftrips.com) and Personality Hotels (& 800/553-1900; www.personality hotels.com), which spiffs hotel transylvania up older buildings in central locales. hotel transylvania Pricier options include the Kimpton Group, which owns the Juliana Hotel (& 800/ 328-3880) and the Hotel Serrano (& 415/885-2500), and the Donatello (& 800/227-3184). The Hilton San Francisco (& 800/HILTONS) and San Francisco Marriott (& 800/228-9290) both have convention-hotel ambience but are conveniently located and have enough rooms to sleep thousands. Ditto the Pan Pacific (& 800/533-6465), which despite its size exudes elegance.

san alfonso del mar resort THE VICTORIAN LEGACY Jay Gifford, founder of Victorian Homes Historical Walking Tour (& 415/252-9485

Farther west along the bay at the northern end of Fillmore, san alfonso del mar resort Marina Green is a favorite san alfonso del mar resort spot for flying kites or watching the sailboats on the bay. Next stop along the bay is the St. Francis Yacht Club. From here begins the 31 2-mile paved Golden Gate Promenade, a favorite biking-and-hiking path that defines san alfonso del mar resort the outer limits san alfonso del mar resort of the Presidio (see below) and leads to the fantastic and recently reestablished marshland preserve Crissy Field, which is the city s latest san alfonso del mar resort favorite playground and a seriously spectacular destination (make a point of it!), complete with sandy beach, lots of native birds, and jogging paths.

THE VICTORIAN LEGACY Jay Gifford, founder of Victorian Homes Historical Walking Tour (& 415/252-9485) and San Francisco resident for 2 decades, portrays his enthusiasm and love of San Francisco throughout this entertaining 21 2-hour tour. Set at a leisurely place, it incorporates a wealth of interesting facts about San Francisco s Victorian architecture, as well as the city s storied history particularly san alfonso del mar resort the periods before and after the great earthquake san alfonso del mar resort and fire of 1906. You ll stroll through Japantown, the Western Addition (where you can take a break to cruise the trendy shops on Fillmore St.), and onward to Pacific Heights and Cow Hollow. In the process you ll see more than 200 meticulously restored Victorians, including the one where Mrs. Doubtfire was filmed. Jay s guests often find they are the only ones on the quiet neighborhood streets, where tour buses are forbidden. The tour ends with a trolley ride back to Union Square, passing though North Beach and Chinatown. Tours, which start at Union Square at 11am, are offered daily April through December and Thursday through Monday from January through March, and cost $20 per person. Reservations are required. You can preview the tour at www.victorianwalk.com.

aquarium boston After Dark There s no shortage of weird and wonderful in this city. Nightclubs I ve included are The

SACRAMENTO & THE GOLD COUNTRY I used to live in Sac- town so I know the scoop. Ergo, I added an entire page of Sacramento bests best burgers, best coffee joint, best Mexican, best breakfast, and of course the best brewpub. I also added the Best Western Sutter House, 1100 H St. (& 800/8301314), a modern hotel with a pool, central location, and far better rates than the Hyatt or Hilton.

550 Geary St., San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/228-8830 or 415/775-5000. www.thehoteladagio.com. 173 units. $209 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $29. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; fitness center; concierge; business center w/free wireless Internet; room service; laundry service; dry cleaning; luggage storage room. In room: TV w/pay movies and Nintendo, dataport, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player, complimentary high-speed Internet access.

After Dark There s no shortage of weird and wonderful in this city. Nightclubs I ve included are The Avalon Hollywood, 1735 N. Vine St., Hollywood aquarium boston (& 323/462-8900), aquarium boston a good place to imbibe, dance, and cavort until the wee hours; Babe s & Ricky s Inn, 4339 Leimert Blvd., Leimert Park (& 323/295-9112), where great blues guitarists are the rule; and Nacional, 1645 Wilcox aquarium boston Ave., Hollywood (& 323/962-7712), Hollywood s hottest dance floor and a magnet for the hip crowd

600 Stockton St. (between Pine and California sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/241-3333 or 415/296-7465. Fax 415/986-1268. www.ritzcarlton.com. 336 units. $395 $695 double; $475 $695 club-level double; from $695 suite. Buffet breakfast $27; Sun Champagne brunch $65. Weekend discounts and packages available.AE,DC,DISC,MC,V.Parking $45.Cable car:Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines (direct stop). Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; indoor heated pool; outstanding health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; courtesy car; business center; secretarial services; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage and manicure; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe, high-speed Internet access.

2012 holidays Del Mar. The turf meets the surf during the Thoroughbred racing season at the Del Mar Race Track. Po

ee. Martin Luther King Jr. Way Jefferson St. BroadwayFranklin St. Web bb ster St. Harrison 2012 holidays St. Harrison St. Jackson St. Madison St. Oak St. BroadwayFranklin 2012 holidays St. Web bb ster St. Jackson St. Madison St. Oak St. Brush St. Castro St. Brush St. Castro St. V

Torrey Pines Golf Course (La Jolla): Two 18-hole championship courses overlook the ocean and provide players with plenty of challenge. In February the Buick Invitational Tournament is held here. The rest of the year, these popular municipal courses are open to everybody. See Outdoor Pursuits in chapter 16. 4 The Best Californian Travel Experiences Hot-Air Ballooning 2012 holidays over Napa Valley: Sure, you have to rise at dawn, but there s no better way to view Napa Valley than drifting over the vineyards in a balloon. Flights are offered in the morning on clear days, when the air is calm and cool. You can book a trip through your hotel or with Bonaventura Balloon Company (& 800/FLY-NAPA) or Adventures Aloft (& 800/944-4408). See Hot-Air Ballooning over the Valley in chapter 6.

In Carmel I discovered two quality 2012 holidays lodgings 2012 holidays charging moderate rates: the Pine Inn Hotel, Ocean Avenue (& 800/228-3851), with its turn-ofthe- 20th-century-bordello-meets-theFar- East decor, and the Vagabond House, Fourth Street (& 800/2621262), a warm, homey English Tudor inn. As for new restaurants in Carmel, I discovered two gems: Club Jalape o, San Carlos Avenue (& 831/6261997), the best, hippest, and most authentic Mexican restaurant in town; and Tommy s Wok, Mission Street (& 831/624-8518), a little Chinese restaurant with a make-it-all-fromscratch philosophy and a Mongolian lamb dish that ll blow your taste buds. I ve also included a trio of longtime favorites: The Hog s Breath Inn, San Carlos Street (& 831/625-1044), Clint s Eastwood old hangout; Little

Del Mar. The turf meets the surf during the Thoroughbred racing season at the Del Mar Race Track. Post time is 2pm most days; the track is dark on Tuesdays. Keep your eyes out for the occasional celeb. For this year s schedule, call & 858/792-4242 or 858/7551141. Mid-July to mid-September.

usairways dividend miles The EndUp It s a different nightclub every night of the week, but regardless of who s throwing the p

The EndUp It s a different nightclub every night of the week, but regardless of who s throwing the party, the place is always jumping with the DJs blasting tunes. There are two pool tables, a flaming fireplace, an outdoor patio, and a mob of gyrating souls on the dance floor. Some nights are straight, so call for gay nights. 401 Sixth St. (at Harrison St.). & 415/357-0827.

Cliff House Lands End China Beach Baker Beach Golden Gate Bridge Seal Rocks Sutro Baths (Ruins) Palace of the Legionof Honor Lincoln Park Golf Course Fort Point RICHMOND DISTRICT Point Lobos Ave. Clement St. El Camino del Mar Seacliff Ave. California St. 25th Ave. Geary Blvd. 34th Ave. Park Presidio Blvd. Lincoln Blvd. PACIFIC OCEAN Coastal Trail Coastal Trail Coastal Trail Coastal Trail GGT Bus Stop Fishing Food Service Parking Picnic area Trail / Promenade MUNI Bus Stop Ranger station Restrooms Showers Swimming Access for disabled 1 1 101 280To 9 Outdoor Pursuits The prime places to enjoy all kinds of recreational activities in San Francisco have already been described earlier in this chapter. usairways dividend miles See The Top Attractions, earlier in this chapter for a complete description of Golden Gate Park, and Golden Gate National Recreation Area & the Presidio above for complete details on these sights.

blueridge parkway Jazz at Pearl s This is one of the best venues for jazz in the city. Ribs and chicken are served wit

to 9:05pm. Shuttles on the 30-minute circuit stop at several Union Square area hotels, including the San Francisco Hilton, San Francisco Marriott, Westin St. Francis, Renaissance Parc Fifty-Five, Hyatt Regency, Hotel Nikko, and Sheraton Palace. A shuttle running every 60 minutes stops at the Palace Hotel, Crowne Plaza, Hyatt Regency, and Grand Hyatt. No reservations are needed. The cost is $14 each way, $22 round-trip; children under age 3 ride free.

This 31-story, 423-room property adjacent to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art is one of the most hip hotels blueridge parkway in town. Sophisticated, sleek, and stylish, its octagonal, three-story glass entrance and lobby give way to a great lounge and two bars. The interior has a residential feel in the guest rooms, and a hip, urban style throughout. All guest rooms offer a luxury featherbed with goose-down comforters and pillows, an oversize dark- wood desk, and upholstered chaise lounge, plus louvered blinds opening to usually great city views. Rooms also feature a compact media wall complete with CD and videocassette players with an extensive CD library, 27-inch color TV, plus Internet service via an infrared keyboard and portable two-line phones. Bathrooms are supersleek and stocked with Aveda products.

Following long-standing tradition, sailors decorate their crafts with colorful lights. blueridge parkway Several Southern California harbors hold nighttime parades to showcase the creations, which range from tiny dinghies

Jazz at Pearl s This is one of the best venues for jazz in the city. Ribs and chicken are served with the sounds, too, with prices ranging from $6 to $14. The live jams last until 1:30am nightly. 256 Columbus Ave. (at Broadway). & 415/2918255. www.jazzatpearls.com. No cover. 2-drink minimum.

capitol grill Further south in Laguna Beach is a spectacular new 30-acre resort called Montage Resort & Spa, 30801

Further south in Laguna Beach is a spectacular new 30-acre resort called Montage Resort & Spa, 30801 S. Coast Hwy. (& 888/715-6700). This neo-Craftsman-style hotel and spa is on the beach, and everything capitol grill about it is spacious, immaculate, tasteful, and expensive but worth the splurge. capitol grill

At press time, two major U.S. airlines were struggling in bankruptcy court and most of the rest weren t doing very well either. To protect yourself, buy your tickets with a credit card, as the Fair Credit Billing Act guarantees you can get your money back from the credit card company if a travel supplier goes under (and if you request the refund within 60 days of the bankruptcy). Travel insurance can also help, but make sure it covers against carrier default for your travel provider. And be aware that if a

limoliner Cliff House Lands End China Beach Baker Beach Golden Gate Bridge Seal Rocks Sutro Baths (Ruins) Pala

If you plan to rent a car in the United States, limoliner you probably won t need the services of an additional automobile organization. If you re planning to buy or borrow a car, automobile- association membership is recommended. AAA, the American limoliner Automobile Association (& 800/ 222-4357), is the country s largest auto club and supplies its members with maps, insurance, and, most important, emergency road service. The cost of joining runs from $63 for singles to $87 for two members, but if you re a member of a foreign limoliner auto club with reciprocal arrangements, you can enjoy free AAA service in America. See Getting There, in chapter 2 for more information.

FAST FACTS: CALIFORNIA 51 emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa s U.S. emergency number is & 800/847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler s check holders should call & 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call & 800/307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at & 800/555-1212.

Cliff House Lands End China Beach Baker Beach Golden Gate Bridge Seal Rocks Sutro Baths (Ruins) limoliner Palace of the Legionof Honor Lincoln limoliner Park Golf Course Fort Point RICHMOND DISTRICT Point Lobos Ave. Clement St. El Camino del Mar Seacliff Ave. California St. 25th Ave. Geary Blvd. 34th Ave. Park Presidio Blvd. Lincoln Blvd. PACIFIC OCEAN Coastal Trail Coastal Trail Coastal limoliner Trail Coastal Trail GGT Bus Stop Fishing Food Service Parking Picnic area Trail / Promenade MUNI Bus Stop Ranger station Restrooms Showers Swimming Access for disabled 1 1 101 280To 9 Outdoor Pursuits The prime places to enjoy all kinds of recreational activities in San Francisco limoliner have already been described earlier in this chapter. See The Top Attractions, earlier in this chapter for a complete description of Golden Gate Park, and Golden Gate National Recreation Area & the Presidio above for complete details on these sights.

, the only building limoliner left standing from the Panama-Pacific Exposition of 1915. The adjoining park and lagoon the perfect place for an afternoon pic- nic are home to ducks, swans, seagulls, and grouchy geese, so bring bread. 3601 Lyon St., in the Palace limoliner of Fine Arts (at Marina Blvd.). limoliner & 415/563-7337 or 415/561-0360 (recorded information). www.exploratorium.edu. limoliner Admission $10 adults; $7.50 seniors, youths 13 17, and college students with ID; $6 children 4 12; free for children under 4. Free to all 1st Wed of each month. AE, MC, V. Tues Sun 10am 5pm. Closed Mon except Martin Luther King, Jr., Presidents , Memorial, and Labor days. Free parking. Bus: 30 from Stockton St. to the Marina stop.

disney jr channel The main thing to do in Tiburon is stroll along the waterfront, pop in to the stores, and spend an e

The main thing to do in Tiburon is stroll along the waterfront, pop in to the stores, and spend an easy $50 on drinks disney jr channel and appetizers before heading back to the city. For a taste of the Wine Country, stop in at Windsor Vineyards, 72 Main St. (& 800/214-9463 or 415/435-3113; disney jr channel www.windsorvineyards.com), which has a Victorian disney jr channel tasting room dating back to 1888. Thirty-five choices are available for a free tasting. Wine accessories and gifts glasses, cork pullers, gourmet sauces, posters, and maps are also for sale. Carry-packs (which disney jr channel hold six bottles) are available; ask about personalized labels for your own selections. The shop is open Sunday through Thursday from 10am to 6pm, Friday and Saturday until 7pm.

For you mystery buffs headed to California, two must-reads include Frank Norris s McTeague: A Story of San Francisco, a tale of love and greed set at the turn of the 20th century, and Dashiell Hammett s The Maltese Falcon, a detective novel that captures the seedier side of San Francisco in the 1920s. Another favorite is Raymond Chandler s The Big Sleep, in which Philip Marlowe explores the darker side of Los Angeles in the 1930s.

You can get an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at & 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au. Passports for adults are A$144 and for those under 18 A$72.

trolley san diego GETTING THERE 41 Northwest (& 800/225-2525; www. nwa.com), Southwest (& 800/4359792; www.southwest.c

Half Moon Bay is also known for its organically grown produce, and the best place to stock up on fruits and vegetables is the Andreotti Family Farm, 329 Kelly Ave., off Calif. 1 (& 650/726-9151), an old-fashioned outfit in business since 1926. Every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, a member of the Andreotti family slides trolley san diego open the door to their old barn at 10am sharp to reveal trolley san diego a cornucopia of strawberries, artichokes, cucumbers, and more. Head toward the beach and you ll see the barn on your right-hand side. It s open until 6pm year-round. trolley san diego

GETTING THERE 41 Northwest (& 800/225-2525; www. nwa.com), Southwest (& 800/4359792; www.southwest.com), United (& 800/241-6522; www.united.com), and US Airways (& 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com). The lowest round-trip fares to the West Coast from New York fluctuate between about $350 and $500; from Chicago, they range from $300 to $400. International travelers should also see Getting to the U.S. in chapter 3 for information on overseas flights into California. For details on air travel within California, see Getting Around, below.

Passengers who can book their tickets long in advance, who can stay over Saturday night, or who fly midweek or at less-trafficked hours will pay substantially less than full fare. If your schedule is flexible, say so, and ask if you can secure a cheaper fare by changing your flight plans. You can also save on airfares by keeping an eye out in local newspapers for promotional specials or fare wars, when airlines lower prices on their most popular routes. You rarely see fare wars offered for peak travel times, but if you can travel in the off-months, you may snag a bargain. Search the Internet for cheap fares (see Planning Your Trip Online, earlier in this chapter). Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, trolley san diego are great sources for international tickets, although trolley san diego they usually can t beat the Internet on fares within North America. Start by looking in the travel sections of major newspapers at home. Beware: Bucket shop tickets are usually nonrefundable or have stiff cancellation penalties, often as high as 50% to 75% of the price, and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records. Several trolley san diego reliable consolidators are worldwide and available on the Net. STA Travel (www.statravel.com) is now the world s leader in student travel, thanks to its purchase of Council Travel. It also offers good fares for travelers of all ages. Flights. com (www.flights.com) started in Europe and now has excellent fares worldwide. FlyCheap (& 800/ FLY-CHEAP; www.1800flycheap. com) is owned by package-holiday megalith MyTravel and so has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations. Air Tickets Direct (& 800/778-3447; www. airticketsdirect.com) is based in Montreal and leverages the currently weak Canadian dollar for low fares.

trainline San Diego. The city s urban park is decked out in holiday splendor for a weekend of evening events,

San Diego. The city s urban park is decked out in holiday splendor for a weekend of evening events, including a candlelight procession, caroling and baroque music, craft displays, ethnic food, and hot cider. The event and the park s 13 museums are free these evenings. For more information, call & 619/ 239-0512 or visit www.balboapark. org. First weekend in December.

3100 Webster St. (at Greenwich St.), San Francisco, CA 94123. & 877/433-5765 or 415/921-5520. Fax 415/931-4137. trainline www.thehoteldelsol.com. 57 units, including 10 1-bedroom suites. $119 $165 double; $160 $235 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 22, 28, 41, 43, 45, or 76. Amenities: Heated trainline outdoor trainline pool; dry cleaning. In room: TV/VCR, dataport, kitchenette in some units, iron, CD player, wireless high-speed Internet access ($10 per day).

THAI By successfully incorporating flavors from India, China, Burma, Malaysia, and the West, Thep Phanom has risen through the ranks to become one of the best Thai restaurants in San Francisco. (The line out the front door proves it s no secret.) trainline Start with the signature dish, ped swan boneless duck in a honey sauce served on a bed of spinach. Larb ped (minced duck salad), velvety basil-spiked seafood curry served on banana leaves, and spicy yum plamuk (calamari salad) are also recommended. The Haight location attracts an eclectic crowd; the atmosphere is informal, and the decor quite tasteful. 400 Waller St. (at Fillmore St.). & 415/431-2526. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7 $12. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30 10:30pm. Bus: 6, 7, 22, 66, or 71.

gay las vegas The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$400 or, for those under 18, A$200. Citizens age 18 and ove

A cab from the airport to downtown will cost $30 to $35, plus tip. SFO Air- porter buses (& 650/246-8942; www.sfoairporter.com) depart from outside the lower-level baggage claim area to downtown every 30 minutes from 5:35am.

1 Mission St. (between Embarcadero and Steuart sts.). & 415/543-6084. gay las vegas Reservations recommended. Main courses $9 $17 lunch, $24 $32 dinner. gay las vegas AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon Fri 11:30am 2:15pm; Sun Thurs 5:30 10pm; Fri Sat 5:30 10:30pm. Valet parking $12 lunch, $10 dinner. Bus: 15, 30, 32, or 45.

The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$400 or, for those under 18, A$200. Citizens age 18 and over can bring in 250 cigarettes gay las vegas or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 1,125 milliliters of alcohol. If you re returning with valuables you already own, such as for- eign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at & 1300/363-263, or log on to www. customs.gov.au.

greyhound schedule Mardi Gras, West Hollywood. The festivities including live jazz and lots of food take place along Sa

Mardi Gras, West Hollywood. The festivities greyhound schedule including live jazz and lots of food take place along Santa Monica Boulevard, from Doheny Drive to La Brea Avenue, and in the alley behind Santa Monica Boulevard. Contact the West Hollywood Convention & Visitors Bureau at

Further south on Highway 49 in Sonora is the newly renovated Gunn House Hotel, greyhound schedule 286 S. Washington St. (& 209/532-3421), one of the best deals in the Gold Country. It s loaded with charm, history, quality antiques, and a pretty pool and patio. greyhound schedule

BY BUS Buses reach almost every corner of San Francisco and travel over the bridges to Marin County and Oakland. All are numbered and display their destinations on the front. Stops are designated by signs, curb markings, and yellow bands on utility poles. Most bus shelters exhibit Muni s transportation map and schedule. Many buses travel along Market Street or near Union Square and run daily from about 6am to midnight, after which there is infrequent all-night Owl service. For safety and convenience, avoid taking buses late at night.

The embassy of Japan is at 2520 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (& 202/238-6700; www.embjapan.org). Japanese consulates are located in many cities including Atlanta, Boston, Detroit, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

california national parks PRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCOPRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCO SANSAN FRANCISCOFRANCISCO NATIONALNATIONAL MILITA

For what I consider the best in women s fashions, check out M tier, 355 Sutter california national parks St., between Grant and Stockton streets (& 415/989-5395). Its inventory of European ready-to-wear lines is expensive, but in the best taste; featured designers include Italian designer Anna Molinari and Alberto Biani, as well as a distinguished collection of antique-style, high-end jewelry from L.A. s Kathie Waterman and ultrapopular custom-designed poetry jewelry by Jeanine Payer.

If you encounter serious problems, contact the Traveler california national parks s Aid International (& 202/546-1127; www.travelersaid.org) to help direct you to a local branch. This nationwide, california national parks nonprofit, social-service organization geared to helping travelers in difficult straits offers services that might include reuniting families separated while traveling, providing food and/or shelter to people stranded without cash, or even emotional counseling. If you re in trouble, seek them out.

PRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCOPRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCO SANSAN FRANCISCOFRANCISCO NATIONALNATIONAL MILITARYMILITARY CEMETERYCEMETERY PRESIDIO california national parks OF SAN FRANCISCO Crissy Field Palace ofPalace of Fine ArtsFine Arts (Exploratorium)(Exploratorium) Palace of Fine Arts (Exploratorium) SAN FRANCISCO NATIONAL california national parks MILITARY CEMETERY Presidio Army Museum Fort Mason Center california national parks Hyde Street Pier Fisherman california national parks s Wharf Aquatic Park Fort Mason Ghirardelli california national parks Square National Maritime Museum WESTERN ADDITION PACIFIC HEIGHTS COW HOLLOW CIVIC CENTER MARINA RUSSIAN HILL CHINATOWN NOB HILL Arguello Blvd. Geary Blvd. Masonic Ave. California St. Presidio Ave. Jackson St. Union St. Lyon St. Doyle Dr. Mason St. FunstonAve. Graham St. Lombard St. BroderickSt. Baker St. Marina Blvd. Fillmore St. Divisadero St. Laguna St. Geary Expressway Franklin St. Van Ness Ave. Hyde St. Columbus Ave. Beach St. Jefferson St. Washington St. California St. Geary St. McAllister St. Market St. San Francisco Bay PresidioBlvd. Golden Gate Promenade 101 101 101 1/2 mi 0.5 km 0 0 N BICYCLING Two city-designated bike routes are maintained by the Recreation and Parks Department. One winds for 71 2 miles through Golden Gate Park to Lake Merced; the other traverses the city, starting in the south, and follows a route over the Golden california national parks Gate Bridge. A map is available from the San Francisco Visitor Information Center and from bike shops all around town.

THAI Ever-bustling Manora s cranks out dependable Thai to an eclectic mix of local diners. It s perpetually packed (unless you come early), so you ll be seated sardinelike at one of the cramped but well-appointed tables. During the dinner rush, the noise level can make conversation among larger parties almost impossible, but the food is so good, you ll probably prefer to turn toward your plate and stuff your face. Start with tangy soup or chicken satay. Follow with any of the wonderful dinner dishes which should be shared and a side of rice. There are endless options, including a vast array of vegetarian california national parks plates. Tip: Come before 7pm or after 9pm if you don t want a loud, rushed meal. 1600 Folsom St. (at 12th St.). & 415/861-6224. Reservations recommended for 4 or more. Main courses $7 $12. MC, V. Mon Fri 11:30am 2:30pm; Mon Sat 5:30 10:30pm; Sun 5 10pm. Bus: 9, 12, or 47.