clyfford still museum Shopping This year I enlisted my resident L.A. shopping expert, Tracy Larrua, to fill me in on all t

Shopping This year I enlisted my resident L.A. shopping expert, Tracy Larrua, to fill me in on all the hot new stores. Some highlights include: Cloud s, 2719 Main St. (& 310/3992059), where you ll find heavenly scented clyfford still museum candles; Arts & Letters, 2665

The Carnelian Room On the 52nd floor of the Bank of America building, the Carnelian Room offers uninterrupted views of the city. From a window- front table, you feel as if you can reach out, pluck up the TransAmerica Pyramid, and stir your martini with it. Note: The restaurant has the most extensive wine list in the city 1,600 selections. 555 California St., in the Bank of America Building (between Kearny and Montgomery sts.). & 415/433-7500. www.carnelianroom.com. Jacket and tie required for men.

Lots of new stuff in Santa Barbara: The Four Seasons Biltmore, 1260 Channel Dr. (& 800/332-3442), just built a multimillion-dollar, 10,000square- foot Spanish-style spa. Nu, 1129 State St. (& 805/965-1500), is my new favorite restaurant for lobster risotto and cocktails; and Don Pepe, 701 Chapala St. (& 805/730-1612), is another delicious reason clyfford still museum why I m always on the prowl for authentic Mexican taco stands. I ve added several of Santa Barbara s best nightlife venues as well (old stomping grounds clyfford still museum from my college days). Also new to this chapter is the San Ysidro Ranch,