graves 601 (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 wor

(2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not

U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (& 0891/200-290) or by visiting the Visas to the U.S. section of the American Embassy London s web- site at www.usembassy.org.uk. Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the Embassy of the USA Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Dublin 4, Ireland (& 353/1-6688777), or by checking the Visas to

891 Beach St. (at Polk St.). & 415/771-6800. www.anamandara.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17 $29. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon Fri 11:30am 2pm; Sun Thurs 5:30 9:30pm; Fri Sat 5:30 10:30pm. Valet parking Tues Sun $9. Bus: 19 or 32. Metro: F.

Among San Francisco s small hotels occupying historic buildings are some real gems, and the Golden graves 601 Gate Hotel is one of them. It s 2 blocks north of Union Square and 2 blocks down (literally) from the crest of Nob Hill, with cable-car stops at the corner for easy access to Fisherman s Wharf and Chinatown. (The city s theaters and best restaurants are within walking graves 601 distance.) But the best thing about the Golden Gate is that it s a family-run establishment: John and Renate Kenaston and daughter Gabriele are hospitable innkeepers who take pleasure in making their guests comfortable. Each individually decorated room has antique furnishings (plenty of wicker), quilted bedspreads, and fresh flowers. (Request a room with a claw-foot tub if you enjoy a good, hot soak.) Complimentary afternoon tea is served daily from 4 to 7pm, and guests are welcome to use the house fax and computer with wireless DSL free of charge. 775 Bush St. (between Powell and Mason sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/835-1118 or 415/392-3702. Fax 415/392-6202. www.goldengatehotel.com. 25 units, 14 with bathroom. $85 double without bathroom; graves 601 $130 double with bathroom. Rates include graves 601 continental breakfast and afternoon tea. AE, DC, MC, V. Self-parking $15. Cable car: Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines (1 block east). Bus: 2, 4, 30, 38, or