hainan The best things to do in Half Moon Bay are the same things the locals do. There s a wonderful paved

can take as long as 2 hours on some days, especially on summer weekends, hainan so be sure to carry this guidebook or something else to read. This is especially true in the aftermath of the September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks, when security clearances have been considerably beefed up at U.S. airports.

In Carmel I discovered two quality lodgings charging moderate rates: the Pine Inn Hotel, hainan Ocean Avenue (& 800/228-3851), with its turn-ofthe- 20th-century-bordello-meets-theFar- East decor, and the Vagabond House, hainan Fourth Street (& 800/2621262), a warm, homey English Tudor inn. As for new restaurants in Carmel, I discovered two gems: Club Jalape o, San Carlos Avenue (& 831/6261997), the best, hippest, and most authentic Mexican restaurant in town; and Tommy s Wok, Mission Street (& 831/624-8518), a little Chinese restaurant hainan with a make-it-all-fromscratch philosophy and a Mongolian lamb dish that ll blow your taste buds. I ve also included a trio of longtime favorites: The Hog s Breath Inn, San Carlos Street (& 831/625-1044), hainan Clint s Eastwood old hangout; Little hainan

The best things to do in Half Moon Bay are the same things the locals do. There s a wonderful paved beach trail that winds 3 miles from Half Moon Bay to Pillar Point Harbor, where you can watch the trawlers unload their catch. Walking, biking, jogging, and skating hainan are all de rigueur, and be sure to keep a lookout for dolphins and whales.

bouchon santa barbara (Santa Barbara; & 805/730-1160): With an always-intriguing seasonal menu derived from Santa Barbara hainan County s wine country, this intimate restaurant (whose name means wine cork ) lies hidden behind a shrubbery portal in the heart of downtown. The food and service are impeccable, and an experienced staff stands ready to help coordinate by-the-glass (or even half-glass) wines for each course. See p. 437. The Hump (Santa Monica; & 310/313-0977): The chefs here are deadly serious about their sushi. hainan Flown in daily from Tokyo s Tsukijii and Fukuoka fish markets in oxygen-filled containers, it s so fresh that there s a sign at the entrance warning the faint-ofheart that the meat s still moving. See p. 494. Koi Restaurant (West Hollywood; & 310/659-9449): The hottest new restaurant in L.A. has the A-list hainan celebrities arriving here nightly to nosh on addictive dishes such as baked crab rolls with edible rice paper. A killer combination of soothing feng shui ambience and superb Asian fusion cuisine. See p. 519. Laurel (San Diego; hainan & 619/2392222): The polished service and elegant setting at this restaurant near Balboa Park are urbane and discriminating. The food is prepared with inventive flair and the