travel maps One way around these fees is to ask for cash back at grocery stores that accept ATM cards and don t

Two blocks east, at Aquatic Park s Hyde Street Pier, are several historic ships that are open to the public. The Balclutha, one of the last surviving square-riggers, was built in Glasgow in 1886 and carried grain from California around Cape Horn at a near-record speed of 300 miles a day; it rounded the treacherous cape 17 times in its career. Visitors are invited to spin the wheel, squint at the compass, and imagine they re weathering a mighty storm. Kids can climb into the bunking quarters, visit the slop chest (galley to you, matey), and read the sea chanteys (clean ones only) that decorate the walls.

One way around these fees is to ask for cash back at grocery stores that accept ATM cards and don t charge usage fees. Of course, you ll have to purchase something first. The same is true at most U.S. Post Offices.

CALIFORNIA/ASIAN At AsiaSF you ll be entertained by Asian men dressed as women who lip-sync show tunes as they serve excellent grilled-shrimp-and-herb salad, Asian-influenced hamburgers, potstickers, duck quesadillas, travel maps and chicken sate. Fortunately, the food and the atmosphere are as colorful as the staff, which means a night here is more than a meal it s an event. 201 Ninth St. (at Howard St.). & 415/255-2742. www.asiasf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9 $19. AE, DISC, MC, V ($25 minimum). Sun Thurs 6 10pm; Fri Sat 5 10pm. Streetcar: Civic Center on underground streetcar. Bus: 9, 12, or 47. BART: Civic Center.