go mokulele Pretend you re a local: Plant yourself at a cafe, sip a latte, and ponder something intellectual whi

Pretend you re a local: Plant yourself at a cafe, sip a latte, and ponder something intellectual while you survey go mokulele the populace bustling by. Bibliophiles must stop at Cody s Books, 2454 Telegraph Ave. (& 510/845-7852; www.cody books.com), to peruse its huge selection of titles, independent-press books, and magazines. For used and antique books, stop by Moe s Books, 2476 Telegraph Ave. (& 510/849-2087; www.moesbooks.com). With four floors of new, used, and out-of-print books, go mokulele you re not likely to leave empty-handed.

BELGIAN-CALIFORNIA Deep-fried offerings are as abundant as sea lions in the Fisherman s Wharf area, but thankfully this funky-artsy Belgian fries, crepes, and DJ/Art teahouse features killer, go mokulele fat french fries with a barrage of exotic dipping sauces that are head and flippers above the rest. Grab a bag of the addictively crisp and thick fried potatoes perhaps with chipotle r moulade or balsamic mayo or swerve toward less lardy options such as a sweet or savory crepe, which range from Nutella, banana, and whipped cream to grilled rosemary chicken go mokulele and Swiss cheese. Or choose a leafy salad or a focaccia sandwich packed with roasted peppers, red onions, pesto mayo, grilled eggplant, and melted Gorgonzola. Wash it down with Belgian ale. A second, equally groovy location is in Hayes Valley at 579 Hayes St., at Laguna Street (& 415/ 864-7654). Ghirardelli Sq., 900 N. Point St. (between Larkin and Polk sts). & 415/928-3886. www.frjtzfries.com. No reservations. Fries $3 $4.50; crepes $4.25 $7.50; sandwiches $5.95 $7.25. AE, MC, V. Sun Thurs 10am 6pm; Fri Sat 10am 7pm; open later during summer so call for hours.

FRENCH/CALIFORNIA This adorable French bistro was a smash when it opened in 1992 and continues to earn raves for its small yet enticingly eclectic menu. The menu, which draws the flavors of France, Italy, and Spain with fresh California produce for results you aren t likely to have tasted elsewhere, changes every few weeks. Dishes might range from aioli-breadcrumb-crusted Sonoma rack of lamb atop grilled ratatouille, to spicy bayou seafood stew brimming with fried oysters, shrimp, snapper, and bell-pepper-and-tomato sauce, to rich saffron artichoke risotto. A word of advice: If you re into classic foods you can identify by name, head elsewhere. It s all about creative cooking here. 5484 College Ave. (north of Broadway between Taft and Lawton sts.). & 510/653-5484. www.citronacote. com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $20 $26; 3- to 5-course fixed-price menu (Sun Fri only) $35 $46. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon Tues 5:30 9pm; Wed Thurs 5:30 9:30pm; Fri 5:30 10pm; Sat 5 10pm; Sun 5 9pm.