Sunday, September 30, 2012

alligiant air 500 Presidio Ave. (at California St.). & 415/441-5669. www.ellassanfrancisco.com. Reservations accep





Mardi Gras, West Hollywood. The festivities including live jazz and lots of food take place along Santa Monica Boulevard, from Doheny Drive to La Brea Avenue, and in the alley behind Santa Monica Boulevard. Contact alligiant air the West Hollywood Convention & Visitors Bureau at

PIER 39, on the waterfront at Embarcadero and Beach Street (& 415/ 981-8030), is a 41 2-acre waterfront complex, a few blocks east of Fisherman s Wharf. Ostensibly a re-creation of an early-20th-century street scene, it features walkways of aged and weathered wood salvaged from demolished piers. But don t expect a slice of old-time maritime life. This is the busiest mall of the group, with more than 100 touristy alligiant air stores. alligiant air In addition, there are 20 or so restaurants and snack outlets, some with good views of the bay.

500 Presidio Ave. (at California St.). & 415/441-5669. www.ellassanfrancisco.com. Reservations accepted for lunch. Main courses $5.50 $11 breakfast, $6 $12 lunch. AE, MC, V. Mon Fri 7am 4pm; Sat Sun 8:30am 2pm. Bus: 1, 5, or 43.

o hare airport map 757 Market St. (between 3rd and 4th sts.), San Francisco, CA 94103. & 800/332-3442 or 415/633-3000.





A 45-minute drive from the teeming streets of San Francisco is a heavenly little hamlet called Half Moon Bay, one of the finest and friendliest small towns on the California o hare airport map coast. While other communities like Bolinas make tourists o hare airport map feel unwelcome, Half Moon Bay residents are disarmingly amicable, bestowing greetings on anyone and everyone who stops for a visit.

757 Market St. (between 3rd and 4th sts.), San Francisco, CA 94103. & 800/332-3442 or 415/633-3000. Fax 415/633-3001. www.fourseasons.com. 277 units. $469 $600 double; $800 executive suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $39. Streetcar: F and all underground streetcars. Bus: All Market St. buses. BART: All trains. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; huge fitness center; spa; 24-hr. multilingual concierge; high-tech business center; secretarial services; salon; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; overnight dry-cleaning and laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, fax, minibar, o hare airport map hair dryer, safe.

Union Square WashingtonSquare SOUTH PARK Yerba Buena Gardens San Francisc Oakland Bay Bridge SOMA TENDERLOIN NOB HILL CHINATOWN FINANCIAL DISTRICT TELEGRAPH HILL FISHERMAN S WHARF UNION SQUARE RUSSIAN HILL NORTH BEACH McAllister St.Market St. 15th St. FolsomHarrisonAlabama 9th St. 8th St. 10th St. 11th St. 12th St. Howard St. Bryant St. Brannan St. Townsend St. Alameda St. Division St. Berry St. Channel St. King St. 4th St. 5th St. Folsom St. 3rd St. Delancey St. 6th St. 7th St. 2nd St. Harrison St. Mission St. Moscone Convention Center 1st St. Union Square Steuart St. Fremont St. Beale St. Main St. Spear St. Justin Herman PlazaGrant Ave. Kearny St. Battery St. Front St. Davis St. Sansome St. Montgomery St. Drumm St. San Francisco- Oakland Bay Bridge o hare airport map Ferry Building (World Trade Center) Pier 19 Pier 17 Pier 15 Pier 9 Pier 7 Pier 5 Pier 3 Pier 1 Embarcadero Embarcadero Pier 35 Pier 33 Pier 31 Pier 27 Pier 23 North Point St. Bay St. Francisco St. Lombard St. Greenwich St. Filbert St. Union St. Jefferson St. Beach St. Pier 45 Pier 431/2 Pier 43 Pier 41 PIER 39Aquatic o hare airport map Park Chestnut St. Washington St. WashingtonSquare Sacramento St. Clay St. Van Ness Ave. Vallejo St. Broadway Tunnel Taylor St. Mason St. Polk St. Larkin St. Hyde St. Leavenworth St. Sutter St. Post St. California St. Pine St. Bush St. Powell St. Stockton St. Geary St. O Farrell St. Eddy St. Jones St. Turk St. Golden Gate Ave. SOUTH PARK Ghirardelli Square Yerba Buena Gardens CIVIC CENTER San Francisco Bay Columbus Ave. Pacific Ave. Jackson St. Davis St. Market St. Green St. S. Van Ness Ave. Embarcadero 280101 101 101 101 101 80 80 KezarDr. Grove St. Fulton St. Hayes St. Fell St. Oak St. P A N H A N D L E GOLDEN GATE PARK PANHANDLE GOLDEN GATE PARK Kezar Stadium Pavilion McLaren Lodge Page St. Haight St. Frederick St. Beulah St. Stanyan St. Shrader St. Cole St. Cole St. ClaytonDowneyDelmar St. Belvedere St. Ashbury St. Masonic Ave. Waller St. JohnF.KennedyDr. ConservatoryDr. Carl St. Parnassus Ave. Haight-Ashbury 51 21 22 24 25 26 27 28 31 32 33 35 34 3637 38 3941 42 43 4044 45 46 47 49 50 48 29 30.

fao schwarz nyc Rockridge Market Hall, 5655 College Ave. (off the northeast end of Broadway at Shafter/Keith St., ac





Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals-and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you ll also find the following:

San Diego native David Swanson s first travels were in the back of a Volkswagen bus with his parents through Yosemite and the Sierras, San Francisco, and Santa Barbara. His stories and photography have appeared in the Los Angeles Times, Chicago Tribune, Boston Globe, Miami Herald, Dallas Morning News, and The Globe and Mail among many others. His work also appears in National Geographic Traveler, Bride s, TravelAge West, and he is a contributing editor fao schwarz nyc at Caribbean Travel & Life.

Rockridge Market Hall, 5655 College Ave. (off the northeast end of Broadway at Shafter/Keith St., across from the Rockridge BART station). & 510/547-5356. www.oliveto.com. Reservations recommended fao schwarz nyc for restaurant. Main courses $9 $15 lunch, $16 $30 dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues Fri 11:30am 2pm; Tues Wed 5:30 9:30pm; Thurs Sat 5:30 10pm; Sun 5 9pm.

the london west hollywood Major Internet Service Providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to





Major Internet Service Providers the london west hollywood (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by simply placing a local call. Check your ISP s website or call its toll-free number the london west hollywood and ask how you can use your current account away from home, and how much it will cost.

As for the adventure part, I risked my life to review Barnstorming Adventures (& 800/759-5667), an aviation company in Carlsbad that gives nonpilots the chance to fly in a 1920s-era biplane ride, and to actually fly as in control the stick a World War II fighter plane.

new haven train station and outdoor poolside cocktail lounge), very affordable and above-average Pan- Asian cuisine served l





and outdoor poolside cocktail lounge), very affordable and above-average Pan- Asian cuisine served late into the eve and topping out at $15, and a state-of-theart sound system streaming ambient, down-tempo, hip-hop, funk, and house music, this is the it joint of the moment. 601 Eddy St. (at Polk St.). & 415/885-5088. www.bambuddhalounge.com.

VISAS The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program allowing citizens of certain countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days. At press time these included Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, new haven train station New Zealand, Norway, new haven train station Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Citizens of these countries need only a valid passport and a round-trip air or cruise ticket in their possession upon arrival. new haven train station If they first enter the United States, they may also visit Mexico, Canada, Bermuda, and/or the Caribbean islands and return to the United States without a visa. Further information is available from any U.S. embassy or consulate. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they need only proof of residence.

congaree national park Two fine midrange hotel options in Oaktown are the Waterfront Plaza Hotel, 10 Washington St., Jack L





Two fine midrange hotel options in Oaktown are the Waterfront Plaza Hotel, 10 Washington St., Jack London Square, congaree national park Oakland (& 800/729-3638 or 510/836-3800; www.waterfrontplaza.com), and the Oakland Marriott City Center, 1001 Broadway, Oakland (& 510/451-4000; www.marriott.com). Most major motel chains also have locations (and budget prices) congaree national park around town and near the airport.

INFORMATION ON CALIFORNIA S PARKS To find out more about California s national parks, contact the Pacific West Region Information Center, National Park Service, 1111 Jackson St., Suite 700, Oakland, CA 94607 (& 510/817-1300; www.

vivaaerobus One way around these fees is to ask for cash back at grocery stores that accept ATM cards and don t





One way around these fees is to ask for cash back at grocery stores that accept ATM cards and don t charge usage fees. Of course, you ll have to purchase something first. The same is true at most U.S. Post Offices.

Calaveras County vivaaerobus Fair and Jumping Frog Jubilee, Angels Camp. The event is inspired by Mark Twain s story The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County. Entrants from all over arrive with their frog participants. There s also a parade, livestock competition, rodeo, carnival, and fireworks. Call & 209/736-2561 or visit www.frog town.org. Third weekend in May.

In addition to the hotels below, I also recommend those represented by the reasonably priced and fashionable Joie de Vivre chain (& 800/SF-TRIPS; www.sftrips.com) and Personality Hotels (& 800/553-1900; www.personality hotels.com), which spiffs up older buildings in central locales. Pricier options include the Kimpton Group, which owns the Juliana Hotel (& 800/ 328-3880) and the Hotel Serrano (& 415/885-2500), and the Donatello (& 800/227-3184). The Hilton San Francisco (& 800/HILTONS) vivaaerobus and San Francisco Marriott (& 800/228-9290) both have convention-hotel ambience but are conveniently located and have enough rooms to sleep thousands. Ditto the Pan Pacific (& 800/533-6465), which despite vivaaerobus its size exudes elegance.

tasmania Starting in December and continuing through March, the A o Nuevo State Reserve is home to one of Cal





Explore the area at your leisure, or see Organized Tours, below if you d like to join a special-interest walking tasmania tour. FISHERMAN S WHARF & THE NORTHERN WATERFRONT Few cities in America are as adept at wholesaling their historical sites as San Francisco, which has converted Fisherman s Wharf into one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. Unless you come really early, you won t find any traces of the traditional waterfront life that once existed here; the only serious fishing going on is for tourist dollars. A fleet of fewer than 30 boats still operates from here, but basically Fisherman s Wharf has been converted into one long shopping mall stretching from Ghirardelli Square at the west end to PIER 39 at the east. Some love it, others can t get far enough away from it, but most agree that Fisherman s Wharf, for better or for worse, has to be seen at least once.

Starting in December and continuing tasmania through March, the A o Nuevo State Reserve is home to one of California s most amazing animal attractions: the breeding grounds of the northern elephant seal. Every winter, people reserve tickets for a chance to witness a fearsome clash between the 21 2-ton bulls over mating privileges among the females. Reservations are required for the 21 2-hour naturalist-led tasmania tours (held rain or shine Dec 15 Mar 31). For tickets, which cost $4 per person (free for children under 3), and information, call & 800/ 444-4445 or visit www.anonuevo.org. Even if it s not mating season, you can still see the elephant seals lolling around the shore almost year-round, particularly tasmania between April and August when they come ashore tasmania to molt.

California is one of the country s most progressive states when it comes to anti-discrimination legislation and workplace benefits for domestic partners. The gay and lesbian community spreads well beyond the famed enclaves of San Francisco, West Hollywood, and San Diego s Hillcrest. Gay travelers (especially men) will find a number of gay-owned inns in Palm Springs and the Russian tasmania River, north of the Bay Area.

alegiant air INEXPENSIVE Swan Oyster Depot Finds SEAFOOD Swan Oyster Depot is a San Francisco experience you shou





INEXPENSIVE Swan Oyster Depot Finds SEAFOOD Swan Oyster Depot is a San Francisco experience you shouldn t miss. Opened in 1912, this hole-in-the-wall boasts 20 or so seats, jammed cheek-by-jowl along a marble bar. Most patrons come for a cup of chowder or a plate of oysters that arrive chilling on crushed ice. The menu is limited to fresh crab, shrimp, oyster, clam cocktails, Maine lobster, and Boston-style clam chowder, all of which are exceedingly fresh. Note: Don t let the lunchtime line dissuade you it moves fast.

Exploring a Real Gold Mine: Don your hardhat, tag in, board the mine shuttle, and experience what it s like to be a gold miner. alegiant air The Sutter Gold Mine tour company (& 866/762-2837) takes you deep into a mine that s loaded with gold deposits. You ll get an opportunity to sluice for some real gold. See A Modern Gold Mine Tour in chapter 10. Taking a Studio Tour: Studio tours are an opportunity to see the actual stage sets for shows such as ER and The West Wing, and you never know who you re going to see emerging from his or her Star Wagon. See Exploring the City in chapter 13.

Credit cards will not cover liability, or the cost of injury to an outside party and/or damage alegiant air to an outside party s vehicle. If you do not hold an insurance policy, you may want to consider purchasing additional liability insurance from your rental company. Be sure to check the terms, however: Some rental agencies only cover liability if the renter is not at fault.

With a $15-million room renovation completed in 2001, this already fabulous luxury boutique hotel offers some of the best accommodations in town not to mention the most expensive. Rooms were completely gutted, and old furnishings were replaced with limestone, pear wood, and more Italian-modern decor. The two executive suites and one luxury suite push the haute envelope to even more luxurious heights. Discriminating returning guests will still find superlative alegiant air service, extra-large beds, exquisite bathrooms, bathrobes, top-notch toiletries, slippers, and every other necessity and extra that s made Campton Place a favored alegiant air temporary address.

wilderness in the smokies CHINESE If you want a sure thing in Chinatown, go to R&G Lounge. During lunch, both newly redecorate





the Moss Rehab Hospital (www. mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; the Society for Accessible Travel wilderness in the smokies and Hospitality (& 212/4477284; wilderness in the smokies www.sath.org; annual membership fees: $45 adults, $30 seniors and students), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities wilderness in the smokies and informed recommendations wilderness in the smokies on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the

Traveler s checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Traveler s checks used to be the only sound alternative to traveling with dangerously large amounts of cash. They were as reliable as currency, but, unlike wilderness in the smokies cash, could be replaced if lost or stolen.

chair) in the same room, it s a supper club that s my criteria. Harry Denton s Starlight Room Come dressed to the nines or in casual attire to this old-fashioned cocktail-lounge-turned-nightclub, where tourists and locals sip drinks at sunset wilderness in the smokies and boogie down to live swing and big-band tunes after dark. The room is classic 1930s San Francisco, with red-velvet banquettes, chandeliers, and fabulous views. wilderness in the smokies But what really attracts flocks of all ages is a night of Harry Denton style fun, which usually includes plenty of drinking wilderness in the smokies and unrestrained dancing. Atop the Sir Francis Drake hotel, 450 Powell St., 21st floor. & 415/ 395-8595. www.harrydenton.com. Cover $10 Wed after 7pm; $5 Thurs after 8pm; $10 Fri after 8pm; $15 Sat after 8pm.

CHINESE If you want a sure thing in Chinatown, go to R&G Lounge. During lunch, both newly redecorated floors are packed with neighborhood workers who go straight to the $5 rice-plate specials. But you can also order from the dinner menu, which features legendary (and very greasy and rich) deep-fried salt-and-pepper crab. My favorites include R&G s melt-in-yourmouth Special Beef, which explodes with the tangy flavor of the accompanying sauce; savory seafood in a clay pot; and delicious classic wilderness in the smokies roast duck. 631 Kearny St. (at Clay St.). & 415/982-7877. Reservations recommended. wilderness in the smokies Main courses $9 $30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon Thurs 11am 9:30pm; Fri 11am 10pm; Sat 11:30am 10pm; Sun 11:30am 9:30pm. Parking validated across the street at Portsmouth Sq. garage or Holiday Inn after 5pm. Bus: 1, 9AX, 9BX, 12, or 15.

balboa park san diego Jazz at Pearl s This is one of the best venues for jazz in the city. Ribs and chicken are served wit





SFMOMA balboa park san diego is a fine museum, but it doesn t come close to those in New York City. That said, its collection consists of more than 23,000 works, including close to 5,000 paintings and sculptures by artists such as Henri Matisse, Jackson Pollock, and Willem de Kooning. (Alas, they only show a small amount of their collection at any given time.) Other artists represented include Diego Rivera, Georgia O Keeffe, Paul Klee, the Fauvists, and holdings of Richard Diebenkorn. SFMOMA was also one of the first to recognize photography as a major art form; its collection includes more than 12,000 photographs by such notables as Ansel Adams, Alfred Stieglitz, Edward Weston, and Henri Cartier-Bresson. Phone for details of special exhibits, and whatever you do, check out the fabulous MuseumStore and cafe.

At the Municipal Boathouse (& 510/238-2196) along the north shore, you can rent sailboats, rowboats, pedal boats, and canoes for $6 to $12 per hour. Another option is to take an hour-long gondola ride with Gondola Servizio (& 510/663-6603; www.gondolaservizio.com). balboa park san diego Experienced gondoliers will serenade you as you glide across the lake; the hourly rate for two varies from $45 for your basic Venetian fling, to $225 for a customized photo-op package balboa park san diego for weddings and other celebrations.

A cab from the airport to downtown will cost $30 to $35, plus tip. SFO Air- porter balboa park san diego buses (& 650/246-8942; www.sfoairporter.com) depart from outside the lower-level baggage claim area to downtown every 30 minutes from 5:35am.

Jazz at Pearl s This is one of the best venues for jazz in the city. Ribs and chicken are served with the sounds, too, with prices ranging from $6 to $14. The live jams last until 1:30am nightly. 256 Columbus Ave. (at Broadway). & 415/2918255. www.jazzatpearls.com. No cover. 2-drink minimum.

san jose tech museum California s spirit of tolerance and diversity has made it a welcoming place for travelers with disa





California san jose tech museum s spirit of tolerance and diversity has made it a welcoming place for travelers with disabilities. Building codes make most public facilities and attractions accessible (though some historic sites and older buildings can t accommodate drastic remodeling), and the state provides many services for those with disabilities.

If you re in Marin and want a taste of the latest rage in modern cooking or rather uncooking head for Larkspur, home of the nation s top raw, organic, vegan restaurant, Roxanne s (320 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; & 415/924-5004; www.roxraw.com). san jose tech museum This over-the-top natural, elegant, and very PC dining experience has L.A. models and actresses flying san jose tech museum up for dinner. Why? Because every dish from the lasagna san jose tech museum terrine layered with Roma tomato sauce, mushrooms, baby spinach, corn, and cashew cheese to the spicy stuffed chiles with ensalada de Buena noche and mole poblano is guiltlessly decadent. Every item is made from organic unprocessed ingredients that are never heated above 115 (to preserve the enzymes). The healthy and environmentally sensitive menu is meatless, flourless, and sugarless, san jose tech museum but it bursts with outstanding flavor and an equally impressive wine list. Don t miss the pad Thai made with raw baby coconut noodles. Skip the desserts, which tend to disappoint, and book well in advance: This is one of Northern California s hottest tickets. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 5:30 to 10pm, two courses here cost $36, three courses are $44, and four courses cost $52. American Express, MasterCard, and Visa are accepted.

monterey bay THE HIGH SIERRA Lots of new restaurants and lodgings in this chapter, starting with Groveland. On yo





Just because your cellphone works at home doesn t mean it ll work elsewhere in the country (thanks to our nation s fragmented cellphone system). It s a good bet that your phone will work in major cities. But take a look at your wireless company s coverage map on its website before monterey bay heading out T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are particularly weak in rural areas. If you need to stay in touch at a destination where you know your phone won t work, rent a phone that does from InTouch USA (& 800/8727626; www.intouchglobal.com) or a rental-car location, but beware monterey bay that you ll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.

THE HIGH SIERRA Lots of new restaurants and lodgings in this chapter, starting with Groveland. On your way to Yosemite, stop by the 150-yearold Iron Door Saloon, 18763 Main St. (& 209/962-6244), for a charbroiled buffalo burger and a try at tacking a $1 bill to the ceiling. Or stay the night at the historic Hotel Charlotte, 18736 Main St. (& 800/9617799), an inexpensive little charmer built in 1921 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

clyfford still museum San Francisco Symphony Founded in 1911, the internationally respected San Francisco Symphony has lon





Finds AMERICAN Mecca is the kind of industrial-chic supper club that makes you want to order a martini clyfford still museum just so you ll match the ambience. A decadent swirl of chocolate-brown velvet, stainless steel, cement, and brown Naugahyde, it s a chic spot where the DJ spins hot grooves, clyfford still museum and a fine American meal is served at tables tucked into several dining nooks. Menu options include such classic starters as Osetra caviar, oysters on the half shell, and Caesar salad. Main courses range from seared ahi tuna to wood oven roasted pork tenderloin. clyfford still museum The food is good, but it s that only-in San Francisco vibe that makes this place smokin hot in the Castro. 2029 Market St. (by 14th and Church clyfford still museum sts.). & 415/621-7000. www.sfmecca.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15 $29.AE,DC,MC,V.Tues clyfford still museum Thurs 5:30 10pm;Fri Sat 6 11:30pm,bar remains open later; Sun 5 9:30pm. Valet parking $10. Streetcar: F, K, L, or M. Bus: 8, 22, 24, or 37.

San Francisco Symphony Founded in 1911, the internationally respected San Francisco clyfford still museum Symphony has long been an important part of this city s cultural life under such legendary conductors as Pierre Monteux and Seiji Ozawa. In 1995 Michael Tilson Thomas took over from Herbert Blomstedt and has led the orchestra to new heights, crafting an exciting repertoire of classical and modern music. The season runs September through June; tickets are hard to come by, but there s usually someone outside the hall trying to sell their tickets the night of the show. Summer symphony activities include a Composer Festival and a Summer in the City series. At Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Ave. (at Grove St.). & 415/864-6000 (box office). www.sfsymphony.org. Tickets $12 $97.

trolley Del Mar. The turf meets the surf during the Thoroughbred racing season at the Del Mar Race Track. Po





Halloween, San Francisco. The City by the Bay celebrates with a fantastic parade starting at Market and Castro, and a mixed gay-straight crowd revels in costumes of extraordinary imagination. October 31.

Many reliable agencies trolley and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (& 877/426-8056; trolley www.elderhostel.org) arranges study programs for those ages 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the U.S. and in more than 80 countries around the world. Most courses last 5 to 7 days in the U.S. (2 4 weeks abroad), and many include airfare, trolley accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition. ElderTreks (& 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks. com) offers small-group tours to offthe- beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Del Mar. The turf meets the surf during the Thoroughbred trolley racing season at the Del Mar Race Track. Post time is 2pm most days; the track is dark on Tuesdays. Keep your eyes out for the occasional celeb. For this year s schedule, call & 858/792-4242 or 858/7551141. Mid-July to mid-September. trolley

islands menu The Fitzgerald Value The Fitzgerald s guest accommodations may be outfitted with newish furniture an





Prepare to Be Fingerprinted Tips 2 Getting to the U.S. AIRLINES In addition to the domestic U.S. airlines listed in chapter 2, many international carriers serve LAX and other U.S. gateways. These include, among others: Aer Lingus (& 01/886-8888 in Dublin; www. aerlingus.ie), Air Canada (& 800/776- 3000; www.aircanada.ca), British Airways (& 0845/77 33-377 in the U.K.; www.british-airways.com), Canadian Airlines (& 800/426- 7000), Japan Airlines (& 0354/ 89-1111 in Tokyo; www.jal.co.jp), Qantas (& 13-13-13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au), and Virgin Atlantic (& 01293/747-747 in the U.K.; www.fly.virgin.com). British Airways and Virgin Atlantic offer direct flights to San Francisco and Los Angeles from London. Air New Starting in January 2004, many international visitors traveling on visas to the United States will be photographed and fingerprinted at Customs in a new program created by the Department of Homeland Security called US-VISIT. Non U.S. citizens arriving islands menu at airports and on cruise islands menu ships must undergo an instant background islands menu check as part of the government s ongoing efforts to deter terrorism by verifying the identity of incoming and outgoing visitors. Exempt from the extra scrutiny are visitors entering by land or those from 28 countries (mostly in Europe) islands menu that don t require a visa for short-term visits. For more information, go to the Homeland Security website at www.dhs.gov/dhspublic.

Telephone, Telegraph, Telex & Fax The telephone system in the United States is run by private corporations, so rates, especially for long-distance service islands menu and operator-assisted calls, can vary widely. Generally, hotel surcharges on long-distance and local calls are astronomical, so you re usually better off using a public pay telephone, islands menu which you ll find clearly marked in most public buildings and private establishments as well as on the street. islands menu Convenience grocery stores and gas stations always have them. Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from public pay phones in most locales cost either 25 or 35. Pay phones do not accept pennies, and few will take anything larger than a quarter.

The Fitzgerald Value The Fitzgerald s guest accommodations may be outfitted with newish furniture and sweet striped wallpaper, and accented with bright bedspreads and patterned carpet, but some of the rooms are really small. (One I saw had a dresser less than a foot from the bed.) Of course, at $80 a night there s no room for complaining. But do ask for a larger room. If you can live without a sizable closet, you ll find that the price, breakfast (home-baked breads, muffins, juice, islands menu tea, and coffee), and cleanliness make it a good value. Note: The view of the Golden Gate on their brochure is not actually visible from the hotel.

clyfford still museum U.K. citizens returning from a non- EU country have a customs allowance of: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigar





Wilkes Bashford, 375 Sutter St., at Stockton Street (& 415/986-4380), is one of the most expensive and well-known clyfford still museum clothing stores clyfford still museum in the city, offering fashions for both sexes. It stocks only the finest clothes (which were often worn by former mayor Willie Brown), clyfford still museum including men s Kiton and Brioni suits (at $2,500 clyfford still museum and up, they re considered clyfford still museum some of the most expensive suits in the world).

BEACHES There are only two beaches in San Francisco that are safe for swimming: Aquatic Park, which is a patch of sand adjacent to the Hyde Park Pier, and China Beach, a small cove on the western edge of the South Bay. But dip in at your own risk there are no lifeguards, and the water is painfully cold.

It s advisable to book several months ahead for peak periods (summer, weekends, and holidays) and to get the best rates. Since the splendid views depend on daylight, also consider it carefully before clyfford still museum traveling during the shorter days of winter. For information and tickets, call Amtrak (& 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com).

U.K. citizens returning from a non- EU country have a customs allowance of: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250 grams of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still table wine; 1 liter of spirits clyfford still museum or strong liqueurs clyfford still museum (over 22% volume); 2 liters of fortified wine, sparkling wine, or other liqueurs; 60 cubic centimeters clyfford still museum (ml) perfume; 250 cubic centimeters (ml) of toilet water; and 145 worth of all other goods, including gifts and souvenirs. People under 17 cannot have the tobacco or alcohol clyfford still museum allowance. For more information, contact HM Customs & Excise at & 0845/ 010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk. For a clear summary of Canadian rules, request the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency (& 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; clyfford still museum www. ccra-adrc.gc.ca). Canada allows its citizens a C$750 exemption, and you re allowed to bring back duty-free 1 carton of cigarettes, 1 can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you re allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at less

Saturday, September 29, 2012

the maldives When parking on a hill, apply the hand brake, put the car in gear, and curb your wheels toward the c





334 Mason St. (between Geary and O Farrell sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/288-6005 or 415/781-5050. Fax 415/835-5991. www.kinggeorge.com. 153 units. $140 double; $240 suite. Breakfast $6.50 $8. Special-value packages available seasonally. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $25; self-parking $22. Cable car: Powell-Hyde and Powell-Mason lines (1 block west). Bus: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 30, 38, 45, 70, or 71. Amenities: Tearoom; evening lounge/bar; access to health club 1 2 block away; concierge; 24-hr. business center; secretarial services; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry/dry cleaning; wireless Internet the maldives access in lobby. In room: TV w/pay movies and Nintendo, dataport, hair dryer, iron, safe, complimentary high-speed Internet access.

Sausalito Art Festival. A juried exhibit of more than 180 artists. It s accompanied by music provided by Bay Area jazz, rock, and blues performers and international cuisine enhanced by wines from some 50 Napa and Sonoma the maldives producers. Call & 415/331-3757 or log on to www.sausalitoartfestival.org for information. Labor Day weekend.

When parking on a hill, apply the hand brake, put the car in gear, and curb your wheels toward the curb when facing downhill, away from it when facing uphill. Curbing your wheels will not only prevent a possible runaway, but also keep you from getting a ticket an expensive fine that is aggressively enforced.

Doctor Saint Francis Memorial Hospital, 900 Hyde St., between Bush and Pine streets on Nob Hill (& 415/353-6000), provides 24-hour emergency- care service. The hospital also operates a physician-referral service

marrakesh Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. These kiosks, which y





can take as long as 2 hours on some days, especially on summer weekends, so be sure to carry this guidebook marrakesh or something else to read. This is especially true in the aftermath of the September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks, when security clearances have been considerably beefed up at U.S. airports.

CHINESE To its legion of fans, the wait at this dive sometimes up to an hour is worth what s on the plate. When the line is reasonable, I drop by for a plate of potstickers and chef-owner Peter Fang s signature shrimp-and-green-onion pancake, served with peanut sauce. You can select from a good number of pork, rice, beef, seafood, chicken, or vegetable dishes, but I suggest marrakesh you trust the waiter when he recommends a special, or simply point to what looks good on someone else s table. Even with an expansion that doubled the space, seating is tight, so prepare to be bumped around a bit and don t expect good service it s all part of the Nanking experience. 919 Kearny St. (at Columbus Ave.). & 415/421-1429. marrakesh Reservations accepted for groups of 8 or more. Main courses $6 $12. MC, V. Mon Fri 11am 10pm; Sat Sun noon 10pm. Bus: 9, 12, 15, or 30.

The U.S. National Park Service offers a Golden Age Passport that gives seniors 62 or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered marrakesh by the National Park Service national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national marrakesh wildlife refuges for a one-time processing fee of $10. This must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges marrakesh an entrance fee. Besides free entry, a Golden Age Passport also offers a 50% discount on federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, marrakesh parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_ passes.htm or call & 888/467-2757.

Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. These kiosks, which you ll also see in shopping malls, hotel lobbies, and tourist information offices around marrakesh the world, give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that s usually higher than cybercafe prices. The kiosks clunkiness and high price means they should be avoided whenever possible.

elie wiesel night A cab from the airport to downtown will cost $30 to $35, plus tip. SFO Air- porter buses (& 650/246-





Vesuvio Along Jack Kerouac Alley across from the City Lights Bookstore, this beatnik hangout isn t just riding its historic reputation. Popular with writers, artists, songsters, and wannabes, Vesuvio elie wiesel night is crowded with self-proclaimed philosophers, along with everyone elie wiesel night else from longshoremen and cab drivers to businesspeople. 255 Columbus Ave. (at Broadway). elie wiesel night & 415/362-3370.

A cab from the airport to downtown will cost $30 to $35, plus tip. SFO Air- porter buses (& 650/246-8942; www.sfoairporter.com) depart from outside the lower-level baggage claim area to downtown elie wiesel night every 30 minutes from 5:35am.

jfk flight status JAPANESE Spare and plain in its decor, with ochre-colored walls etched with patterns, this spot has





A second, larger location is open in the Mission at 2327 Mission St., between 19th and 20th streets jfk flight status (& 415/648-0504). 1801 Haight St. (at Shrader St.). & 415/386-7670. Reservations not accepted. Tapas $5 $9; main courses $13 $15. MC, V. Daily 11am 4pm; Sun Thurs 5 11pm; Fri Sat 5 11:30pm. Streetcar: N. Bus: 6, 7, 66, 71, or 73.

JAPANESE Spare and plain in its decor, with ochre-colored walls etched with patterns, this spot has a meditative air to complement the traditional, experimental, and very fresh and clean Japanese-inspired cuisine. The menu, which changes jfk flight status daily, offers meal-in-a-bowl dishes ($9 $13) that allow a choice of soba or udon noodles in a clear soup with a variety of toppings from shrimp and wakame seaweed to beef with burdock root and carrot. jfk flight status Appetizers include a flavorful melding of grilled shiitake jfk flight status mushrooms, as well as portobello mushrooms, watercress, and green-onion jfk flight status pancakes. There are also specials ($10 $18), which always include delicious roasted salmon. 1830 Fourth St. (near Hearst). & 510/841-8783. Reservations jfk flight status recommended Fri Sat dinner. Main courses lunch $9 $19, dinner $18 $24. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon Sat 11:30am 3pm; Mon Thurs 5:30 9pm; Fri Sat 5:30 9:30pm.

city walk PARKING If you want to have a relaxing vacation, don t even attempt to find street parking downtown





PARKING If you want to have a relaxing vacation, don t even attempt to find street parking downtown or in Nob Hill, North Beach, city walk Chinatown, by Fisherman s Wharf, or on Telegraph Hill. Park in a garage or take a cab or a bus. If you do find street parking, pay attention to street signs that explain when you can park and for how long. Be especially careful not to park in zones that are tow areas during rush hours.

Earthquakes In the rare event of an earthquake, city walk if you re in a tall building, don t run outside; instead, move away from windows and toward the building s center. city walk Crouch under a desk or table, or stand against a wall or under a doorway. city walk If you re in bed, get under the bed or stand in a doorway, or crouch under a sturdy piece of furniture. When exiting the building, use stairwells, not elevators.

San Francisco city walk Brewing Company The bar is one of the city s few remaining old saloons, aglow with stained-glass windows, tile floors, skylights, a mahogany bar, and a massive overhead fan running the full length of the bar a bizarre contraption crafted from brass and palm fronds. Menu items range from $3.70 (curiously, for edamame, or soybeans) to $20 for a full rack of baby back ribs with all the fixings. The happy-hour city walk special, a dollar per 8.5-ounce micro- brew beer (or $2.50 a pint), runs daily from 4 to 6pm and midnight to 1am. 155 Columbus Ave. (at Pacific St.). & 415/434-3344. www.sfbrewing.com.

canary islands 1075 California St. (between Mason and Taylor sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/227-4683 or 415/





1075 California canary islands St. (between Mason and Taylor sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/227-4683 or 415/474-5400. Fax 415/474-6227. www.huntingtonhotel.com. 135 units. $315 $460 double; $490 $1,120 canary islands suite. Continental breakfast $14. Special packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $29. Cable car: California St. line (direct stop). Bus: 1. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; indoor heated pool (for ages 16 and up); health club; spa; steam room; sauna; concierge; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, fax, dataport, kitchenette in some units, minibar, fridges canary islands in some units, hair dryer, iron, safe.

As for things to do in Carmel, we re now hip to Carmel Walks (& 831/ 642-2700), a tour guide company offering 2-hour guided walks through Carmel s gardens, hidden pathways, and fairy-tale-like cottages of bohemian writers, artists, and movie stars.

Most business-class hotels offer dataports for laptop modems, and a few thousand hotels in the U.S. now offer high-speed Internet access canary islands using an Ethernet network canary islands cable. You ll have to bring your own cables either way, so call your hotel in advance to find out what the options are.

alligant air CALIFORNIA-ITALIAN Its discreet location in a quiet residential neighborhood hasn t stopped this tin





Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, alligant air you ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, alligant air and car rentals-and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you ll also find the following:

CALIFORNIA-ITALIAN Its discreet location in a quiet residential neighborhood hasn t stopped this tiny and predominantly white restaurant from becoming one of the city s hottest reservations since it opened in late 2003. Since there are only 15 tables, alligant air diners are clamoring for seats in order to savor the pristine nightly-changing Italian-inspired menu by Michael Tusk, who mastered the art of pasta while working at the East Bay s famed Chez Panisse and Oliveto restaurants. Regardless, alligant air it s worth the effort especially if you love simple food that honors a few high-quality alligant air ingredients. Dining divinity might start with a pillowy spring garlic souffl or white asparagus with a lightly fried egg and brown butter, but it really hits heavenly notes with the pasta course, be it garganelli with English peas and prosciutto, alligant air tagliatelle with veal ragu and fava beans, or artichoke ravioli. Meat selections don t fall short either, with delicately prepared mixed grill plates, tender Alaskan halibut with fava beans, and juicy lamb with fennel and olives. Desserts, though tasty, aren t as celestial, which is just fine since it may leave room for an extra pasta course. 1701 Octavia alligant air St. (at Bush St.). & 415/775-8500. www.quincerestaurant.com. Reservations necessary. Main courses $16 $27. AE, MC, V. Thurs Sun 5:30 10pm; Fri Sat 5:30 10:30pm. Valet parking $8. Bus: 1, 31, or 38.

openskies Almost every credit card company has an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is stolen. B





For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial 0 (zero, not the letter O) followed by the area code and number you want; an operator will then come on the line, and you should specify that you are calling collect, or person-to-person, or both. If your operator- openskies assisted call is international, ask for the overseas openskies operator.

Almost every credit card company has an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is stolen. Be sure to block charges against your account immediately and file a police report. Your credit card company may be able to wire you a cash advance off your credit card, and in many places, they can deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. To report a lost or stolen card, contact Visa at & 800/ 336-8472; American Express, & 800/ 221-7282; MasterCard, & 800/3077309; Discover, & 800/347-2683; or Diners Club, & 800/234-6377.

family fun center INEXPENSIVE Swan Oyster Depot Finds SEAFOOD Swan Oyster Depot is a San Francisco experience you shou





At the Municipal Boathouse family fun center (& 510/238-2196) along the north shore, family fun center you can rent sailboats, family fun center rowboats, family fun center pedal boats, and canoes for $6 to $12 per hour. Another option is to take an hour-long gondola ride with Gondola Servizio (& 510/663-6603; www.gondolaservizio.com). Experienced gondoliers will serenade you as you glide across the lake; the hourly family fun center rate for two varies from $45 for your basic Venetian fling, to $225 for a customized photo-op package for weddings and other celebrations.

INEXPENSIVE Swan Oyster Depot Finds SEAFOOD Swan Oyster Depot is a San Francisco experience you shouldn t miss. Opened in 1912, this hole-in-the-wall boasts 20 or so seats, jammed cheek-by-jowl along a marble bar. Most patrons come for a cup of chowder or a plate of oysters that arrive chilling on crushed ice. The menu is limited to fresh crab, shrimp, oyster, clam cocktails, Maine lobster, and Boston-style clam chowder, family fun center all of which are exceedingly fresh. family fun center Note: Don t let the lunchtime line dissuade you it moves fast.

The cheapest way to downtown San Francisco (and easiest during traffic snarls) involves taking the shuttle family fun center bus from the airport to BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit; & 510/464-6000; www.bart.gov). The AirBART shuttle bus runs about every 15 minutes Monday through Saturday from 6am to 11:30pm and Sunday from 8:30am to 11:30pm, stopping in front of Terminals 1 and 2 near the ground-transportation signs. The cost is $2 for the 10-minute ride to BART s Coliseum terminal, and tickets must be purchased at the airport s vending machines. BART fares vary, depending on your destination; the trip to downtown San Francisco costs $2.75 and takes 20 minutes once onboard. The entire excursion should take around 45 minutes.

firesky resort One of my favorite galleries is the Catharine Clark Gallery, on the second floor at 49 Geary St., be





Avoid excess charges and hidden costs. When you book a room, ask whether the hotel charges for parking. Use your own cellphone, pay phones, firesky resort or prepaid phone cards instead firesky resort of dialing direct from hotel phones. firesky resort And don t be tempted by the room s minibar offerings: Most hotels charge through the nose for water, soda, and snacks. Finally, ask about local taxes and service charges, firesky resort which can increase the cost of a room by 15% or more. If a hotel insists upon tacking on a surprise energy surcharge that wasn t mentioned at check-in or a resort fee for amenities you didn t use, you can often make a case for getting it removed. Book an efficiency. A room with a kitchenette allows you to cook your own meals. This is a big money saver, especially for families on long stays. LANDING THE BEST ROOM

One of my favorite galleries is the Catharine firesky resort Clark Gallery, on the second floor at 49 Geary St., between Kearny and Grant streets (& 415/399-1439). It exhibits up-and-coming contemporary artists, mainly from California, and nurtures beginning collectors by offering an unusual interest-free purchasing plan.

allentown airport The shops are open daily from 10:30am to 8:30pm. Cable car: Powell-Mason line to Bay Street. THE MIS





water. Those in the know make a quick detour allentown airport to Caledonia Street, which runs parallel to and 1 block inland from Bridgeway. Not only is it less congested, allentown airport but there s also a far better selection of cafes and shops.

The shops are open daily from 10:30am to 8:30pm. Cable car: Powell-Mason line to Bay Street. THE MISSION DISTRICT Once inhabited almost entirely by Irish immigrants, the Mission is now the center of the city s Latino community and the city s dot-commercialization, an oblong area stretching roughly from 14th to 30th streets between Potrero Avenue in the east and Dolores on the west. Some of the city s finest Victorians still stand in the outer areas, though many seem out of place in the mostly lower-income neighborhoods. The heart of the community lies along 24th Street between Van Ness and Potrero, where dozens of ethnic restaurants, bakeries, bars, and specialty stores attract a hip crowd from all over the city. Strolling through the Mission District at night should be done cautiously on the outskirts, but it s quite safe during the day and highly recommended.

Telephone, Telegraph, allentown airport Telex & Fax The telephone system allentown airport in the United States is run by private corporations, so rates, especially for long-distance service and operator-assisted calls, can vary widely. Generally, hotel surcharges on long-distance and local calls are astronomical, so you re usually better off using a public pay telephone, which you ll find clearly marked in most public allentown airport buildings and private establishments as well as on the street. Convenience grocery stores and gas stations always have them. Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public phones allentown airport at airports now accept American allentown airport Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from public pay phones in most locales cost either 25 or 35. Pay phones do not accept pennies, and few will take anything larger than a quarter.

halloween horror nights 2011 hollywood San Francisco Brewing Company The bar is one of the city s few remaining old saloons, aglow with sta





In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers halloween horror nights 2011 hollywood from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

Designated historic landmarks by the National Park Service in 1964, the beloved cable cars clank across the hills like mobile museum pieces. Each weighs about 6 tons and is hauled by a cable under the street in a center rail. They move at a constant 91 2 mph never more, never less. This may strike you as slow, but it doesn t feel that way when you re cresting an almost perpendicular hill and looking down at what seems like a bobsled dive into the ocean. But in spite of the thrills, they re perfectly safe.

San Francisco Brewing Company The bar is one of the city s few remaining old saloons, aglow with stained-glass windows, tile floors, skylights, a mahogany bar, and a massive overhead fan running the full length of the bar a bizarre contraption crafted from brass and palm fronds. Menu items range from $3.70 (curiously, for edamame, halloween horror nights 2011 hollywood or soybeans) to $20 for a full rack of baby back ribs with all the fixings. The happy-hour special, a dollar per 8.5-ounce micro- brew beer (or $2.50 a pint), runs daily from 4 to 6pm and midnight to 1am. 155 Columbus Ave. (at Pacific St.). & 415/434-3344. www.sfbrewing.com.

balboa park san diego If you haven t had chocolate nibs, you haven t lived at least that s what chocoholics are likely to





If you plan to rent a car in the United States, you probably won t need the services of an additional automobile organization. If you re planning to buy or borrow a car, automobile- balboa park san diego association membership is recommended. AAA, the American Automobile Association balboa park san diego (& 800/ 222-4357), is the country s largest auto club and supplies its members with maps, insurance, and, most important, emergency road service. The cost of joining runs from $63 for singles to $87 for two members, but if you re a member of a foreign auto club with reciprocal arrangements, balboa park san diego you can enjoy free AAA service in America. See Getting There, in chapter 2 for more information.

Big Bear Lake: Families flock year-round to this lake in the San Bernardino Mountains, and not just for the skiing. Horseback riding, watersports, and the Alpine Slide (kind of a snowless bobsled) are fun alternatives, and you can see and learn about wildlife at the Moonridge Animal Park. The village has a movie theater, arcade, and dozens of cutesy bear-themed businesses. The area s cabins are perfect for families. See Big Bear Lake & Lake Arrowhead in chapter 14. Disneyland: balboa park san diego The Happiest Place on Earth is enhanced by its sister theme park, California Adventure. Whether you re wowed by Disney animation, thrilled by the roller-coaster rides, or interested in the history and secrets of this pop-culture icon, you won t walk away disappointed. Get a FASTPASS to skip those long lines! See The Disneyland Resort in chapter 14. San Diego Zoo, Wild Animal Park & SeaWorld: San Diego boasts three of the world s best animal balboa park san diego attractions. balboa park san diego At the zoo, animals live in naturalistic habitats such as Tiger River and Polar Bear Plunge, and it s one of only

If you haven t had chocolate nibs, you haven t lived at least that s what chocoholics are likely to discover upon visiting Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker (& 510/981-4050; www.scharffenberger.com). California s runaway success chocolatier opened its factory balboa park san diego and retail shop doors in mid-2001. Within the brick building, visitors can taste the nibs (crunchy roasted and shelled cocoa beans) and see how the chocolate company uses vintage European equipment during regularly scheduled balboa park san diego tours (call for details). And there are plenty of tasty products, from candy bars to cocoa powder and chocolate sauce, available in the retail balboa park san diego shop. The factory is located at 914 Heinz Ave.; from I-80 East, take the Ashby Avenue exit, turn left on Seventh Street and right on Heinz.

Australian citizens can obtain upto- date visa information balboa park san diego by contacting the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (& 02/6214-5600), or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission s website at http://usembassyaustralia. state.gov/consular.

oakview mall Tosca Finds Open daily from 5pm to 2am, Tosca is a low-key and large popular watering hole for local





The Conservatory of Flowers, Golden Gate Park, reopened in September 2003 after a major renovation to its delicate and dazzling oakview mall glass design. oakview mall Drop by for a stunning peruse of the 1878 glass building and its treasure trove of the planet s most gorgeous plants. oakview mall

SUSHI/JAPANESE San Franciscans often cross the bridge just to cram into the bar, window seats, and more roomy back dining area of this top-quality favorite. They journey here for the standard rolls (yellowtail, unagi, maguro, and the like) or the specialty rolls (crab, avocado, and beyond). oakview mall You ll also find a slew of creative dishes, such as generously sized, unbelievably moist and buttery miso-glazed black cod, oysters on the half shell with ponzu sauce and tobiko, and a Hawaiian-style ahi (tuna) poke salad with seaweed dressing. Pay the extra $2.50 or so for fresh wasabi, select from the fine sake and wine list, and don t miss dessert, because here they are more creative and delicious than those served at most Japanese restaurants. 107 Caledonia St. & 415/332-3620. oakview mall www.sushiran.com. Reservations recommended. Sushi $5 $14; main courses oakview mall $8.50 $16. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon Fri 11:45am 2:30pm and 5:30 11pm; Sat 5:30 11:30pm; Sun 5 10:30pm. From U.S. 101 north, take the 1st right after the Golden Gate Bridge (Alexander exit); Alexander becomes Bridgeway in Sausalito. At Johnson St. turn left, then right onto Caledonia.

Tosca Finds Open daily from 5pm to 2am, Tosca is a low-key and large popular watering hole for local politicos, oakview mall writers, media types, incognito visiting celebrities such as Johnny Depp or Nicolas Cage, and similar cognoscenti of unassuming classics. Equipped with dim lights, red leather booths, and high ceilings, it s everything you d expect an old North Beach legend oakview mall to be. 242 Columbus Ave. (between Broadway and Pacific Ave.). & 415/986-9651.

southwest phone number King of luxury boutiques, the Kimpton Hotel Group gives visitors a new reason to stay at Fisherman s





Haight-Ashbury Part trendy, part nostalgic, part funky, the Haight, as it s known, was the soul of the psychedelic 60s and the center of the counterculture movement. Today the neighborhood straddling southwest phone number upper Haight Street on the eastern border of Golden Gate Park is more gentrified, but the commercial area still harbors all walks of life. Leftover hippies mingle outside Ben & Jerry s with grungy, begging street southwest phone number kids, marijuana dealers, and people with Day-Glo hair. But you don t need to be a freak or wear tie-dye to enjoy the Haight: The food, shops, and bars cover all tastes. From Haight Street, walk south on Cole Street for a more peaceful neighborhood experience.

caveat is that its Lombard Street location is usually congested with traffic, but nearby Chestnut and Union streets offer some of the best shopping and dining in the city. The adjoining pub serves evening drinks.

ment. Pharmacies There are Walgreens drugstores all over town, including one at 135 Powell St. (& 415/391-4433). The store is open Monday through Friday from 7am to midnight and Saturday southwest phone number and Sunday from 8am to midnight, but the pharmacy has more-limited hours: Monday through Friday from 8am to 9pm, Saturday from 9am to 5pm, and it s closed Sunday. The branch southwest phone number on Divisadero Street at Lombard (& 415/931-6415) has a 24-hour pharmacy.

King of luxury boutiques, the Kimpton Hotel Group gives visitors a new reason to stay at Fisherman s Wharf with this gem at the very cool Maritime National Historic Park. A half block from the bay, the four-story timber-and-brick landmark building originally built in 1909 for the California Fruit Canners southwest phone number Association has 239 rooms and 13 suites whimsically decorated.

track flights The 1,480-acre area incorporates a variety of terrain coastal scrub, dunes, and prairie grasslands t





The 1,480-acre area incorporates a variety of terrain coastal track flights scrub, dunes, and prairie grasslands that shelter track flights many rare plants and more than 150 species of birds, some of which nest here. There are also more than 350 historic buildings, a national cemetery, and a variety track flights of terrain and natural habitats. The National Park Service offers a number of walking and biking tours around the Presidio; reservations track flights are required.

to 9:05pm. Shuttles on the 30-minute circuit stop at several Union Square area hotels, including the San Francisco Hilton, San Francisco Marriott, Westin St. Francis, Renaissance Parc Fifty-Five, Hyatt Regency, Hotel Nikko, track flights and Sheraton track flights Palace. A shuttle running every 60 minutes stops at the Palace Hotel, Crowne Plaza, Hyatt Regency, and Grand Hyatt. No reservations are needed. The cost is $14 each way, $22 round-trip; children under age 3 ride free.

chicago planetarium Kids AMERICAN Sure, it s contrived, touristy, and nowhere near healthy, but when you get that urge f





Kids AMERICAN Sure, it s contrived, touristy, and nowhere near healthy, but when you get that urge for a chocolate shake and banana cream pie at midnight or when you want to entertain the kids no other place comes through like Mel s Diner. Modeled after a 1950s diner, down to the jukebox at each table, Mel s harks back to the days when cholesterol and fried foods didn t jab your conscience with every greasy, chicago planetarium wonderful bite. Too bad the prices don t reflect the 50s: A burger with fries and a Coke runs about $9.50. There s another Mel s at 3355 Geary St., at Stanyan chicago planetarium Street (& 415/3872244); it s open Thursday through Saturday chicago planetarium from 6am to 3am.

It seems like wherever you turn, L.A. s hotels are upping the ante with multimillion- dollar face-lifts and mood- enhancing feng shui elements. The new Ambrose, 1255 20th St., Santa Monica (& 877/262-7673), blends Arts & Crafts movement with Asian influences such as a Japanese garden, a koi pond, and fountains. Rates start at a very reasonable $165 for an upscale chicago planetarium boutique, so book a room while it s still a bargain.

fort wilderness 1658 Market St. (at Franklin St.). & 415/552-2522. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10 $19 lu





(2) 200 cigarettes, fort wilderness 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not

1658 Market St. (at Franklin St.). & 415/552-2522. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10 $19 lunch, $15 $29 dinner. AE, MC, V. Tues Sat 11:30am midnight; Sun 11am 11pm. Valet parking $8. Streetcar: All Market fort wilderness St. streetcars. Bus: 6, 7, 71, or 75.

sawmill creek resort The Conservatory of Flowers, Golden Gate Park, reopened in September 2003 after a major renovation t





The Conservatory of Flowers, Golden Gate Park, reopened in September 2003 after a major renovation to its delicate and dazzling glass design. sawmill creek resort Drop by for a stunning peruse of the 1878 glass building and its treasure trove of the planet s most gorgeous plants.

OAKLAND INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT About 5 miles south of downtown Oakland, at the Hagenberger Road exit off Calif. 17 (I-880), Oakland International Airport (& 510/563-3300; www.oaklandairport.com) is used primarily by passengers with East Bay destinations. Many San Franciscans, however, prefer this less-crowded, accessible airport. Without traffic, a car or taxi ride to the airport is a quick 20 to 30 minutes; sawmill creek resort with traffic, give yourself at least an hour. It s also accessible by BART (see below for details), which is not influenced by traffic because it travels on its own tracks.

Attractions The Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, Embarcadero, at Market Street (& 415/353-5650), now at the renovated Ferry Building Marketplace, keeps getting better and is a must-visit. sawmill creek resort Not only do they have an enormous organic market sawmill creek resort hawking the bounties of local farmers, florists, and specialty food purveyors, they also host myriad cooking demonstrations. The outdoor market is open 4 days a week (see www.ferrybuildingmarket place.com for hours), but the interior gourmet shopping emporium is open daily. sawmill creek resort This is a great place just to come, hang out, and graze.

moma nyc The cozy downstairs restaurant, strewn with floral bouquets, is a warm environment in which to indul





For information on the state as a whole, contact California Tourism, 1102 Q St., Suite 6000, Sacramento, CA 95814 (& 800/GO-CALIF; www. visitcalifornia.com), and ask for a free information packet. In addition, almost every city and town in the state has a tourist bureau or chamber of commerce that will send you information on its particular area. These are listed under the appropriate headings in the geographically organized chapters that follow.

The cozy downstairs restaurant, strewn with floral bouquets, is a warm environment moma nyc in which to indulge in the $65 fixed-price four-course gourmet dinner, which is served Tuesday through Thursday. Friday and Saturday it s $75 for four courses, and Monday is bargain night, with a three-course dinner for $50.

When you walk through these doors, you ll be reminded how majestic old luxury really is. The original 1875 Palace was rebuilt after the 1906 quake; the most spectacular attribute is the old regal lobby and the Garden Court, a San Francisco landmark that has been restored to its original grandeur. moma nyc Thankfully, the rooms were recently moma nyc renovated with mahogany four-poster beds, warm gold paint and upholstery, and tasteful artwork. 2 New Montgomery St. (at Market St.), San Francisco, CA 94105. moma nyc & 800/325-3589 moma nyc or 415/512-1111. Fax 415/543-0671. www.sfpalace.com. 552 units. $550 $650 double; from $775 suite. Extra person $40. Children under 18 sharing existing bedding stay free in parent s room. Weekend rates and packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $40. Streetcar: All Market St. streetcars. Bus: All Market St. buses. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar; health club with skylight-covered heated lap pool; spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; moma nyc concierge; business center; conference rooms with wireless moma nyc Internet access; 24-hr. room service; laundry; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe.

ua airline Geology buffs will want to pack a copy of Assembling California, John McPhee s observation of Califo





151 Third St. (2 blocks ua airline south of Market St., across from Yerba Buena Gardens). & 415/357-4000. www.sfmoma.org. Admission $10 adults, $7 seniors, ua airline $6 students over 12 with ID, free for children 12 and under. Half price for all Thurs 6 8:45pm; free to all 1st Tues of each month. Thurs 11am 8:45pm; Fri Tues 11am 5:45pm. Closed ua airline Wed and major holidays. Streetcar: J, K, L, or M to Montgomery. Bus: 15, 30, or 45.

PREPARING FOR YOUR TRIP 55 claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring in foodstuffs (particularly fruit, cooked meats, and canned goods) and plants (vegetables, seeds, tropical plants, and the like). Foreign tourists may bring in or take out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs, which includes filing form CM 4790. For more specific information regarding ua airline U.S. Customs and Border Protection, contact your nearest

some less-coveted ua airline seats are usually available until curtain time. War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave. (at Grove St.). & 415/864-3330 (box office). www.sfopera.com. Tickets $25 $195. Standing room $15 $30.

Geology buffs will want to pack a copy of Assembling California, John McPhee s observation of California s geological history. Mike Davis s City of Quartz and Ecology of Fear offer a critical perspective on the social and natural history of Los Angeles.

thailand weather Still farther along the coast lie Point Lobos, the Sutro Baths, and the Cliff House. The latter has





If you haven t had chocolate nibs, you haven t lived at least that s what chocoholics are likely to discover upon visiting Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker (& 510/981-4050; www.scharffenberger.com). California s runaway success chocolatier opened its factory and retail shop doors in mid-2001. Within the brick building, visitors can taste the nibs (crunchy roasted and shelled cocoa beans) and see how the chocolate company uses vintage European equipment during regularly scheduled tours (call for details). And there are plenty of tasty products, from candy bars to cocoa powder and chocolate sauce, available in the retail shop. The factory is located at 914 Heinz Ave.; from I-80 East, take the Ashby Avenue exit, turn left on Seventh Street and right on Heinz.

The International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) (& 800/ 448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www. iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel companies.

Still farther along the coast lie Point Lobos, the Sutro Baths, and the Cliff House. The latter has been serving thailand weather refreshments to visitors since 1863 and is slated to undergo renovation in the coming year. Here you can view the Seal Rocks, home to a colony of sea lions and marine birds. Only traces of the Sutro

southwest flight status The shops are open daily from 10:30am to 8:30pm. Cable car: Powell-Mason line to Bay Street. THE MIS





The shops are open daily from 10:30am to 8:30pm. southwest flight status Cable car: Powell-Mason line to Bay Street. THE MISSION DISTRICT Once inhabited almost entirely southwest flight status by Irish immigrants, the Mission is now the center of the city s Latino community and the city s dot-commercialization, southwest flight status an oblong area stretching roughly southwest flight status from 14th to 30th streets between Potrero southwest flight status Avenue in the east and Dolores on the west. Some of the city s finest Victorians still stand in the outer areas, though many seem out of place in the mostly lower-income neighborhoods. The heart of the community lies along 24th Street between Van Ness and Potrero, where dozens of ethnic restaurants, bakeries, bars, and specialty stores attract a hip crowd from all over the city. Strolling southwest flight status through the Mission District at night should be done cautiously on the outskirts, but it s quite safe during the day and highly recommended.

GETTING southwest flight status THERE 41 Northwest (& 800/225-2525; www. nwa.com), Southwest (& 800/4359792; www.southwest.com), United (& 800/241-6522; southwest flight status www.united.com), and US Airways (& 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com). The lowest round-trip fares to the West Coast from New York fluctuate between about $350 and $500; from Chicago, they range from $300 to $400. International travelers should also see Getting to the U.S. in chapter 3 for information on overseas southwest flight status flights into California. For details on air travel southwest flight status within California, see Getting Around, below.

Ocean Beach, at the end of Golden Gate Park, on the westernmost side of the city, is San Francisco s largest beach (4 miles long). Just offshore, at the northern end of the beach in front of the Cliff House, are the jagged Seal Rocks, inhabited by shorebirds and a large colony of barking southwest flight status sea lions. Bring binoculars for a close- up view. Ocean Beach is for strolling or sunning, but don t swim here tides are tricky, and each year bathers and surfers drown in the rough waters.

Friday, September 28, 2012

rtd bus schedule San Francisco is accessible via several major highways: U.S. 101 and Calif. 1 from the north and sou





The Exploratorium Kids This fun, hands-on science fair contains more than 650 exhibits that explore rtd bus schedule everything from color theory to Einstein s theory of relativity. Optics are demonstrated in booths where you can see a bust of a statue in three dimensions but when you try to touch it, you discover it isn t there! The same experience occurs with an image of yourself: When you stretch

Finding your idea of a comfortable bar has a lot to do with picking a neighborhood filled with your kind of people and investigating that area. There are hundreds of bars throughout San Francisco, and although many are obscurely located and can t be classified by their neighborhood, the following is a general description of what you ll find and where:

In the mountain town of Mammoth, I ve added a couple of dining spots: rtd bus schedule Berger s Restaurant, 6118 Minaret Rd. (& 760/934-6622), a cabinlike rtd bus schedule cafe serving a huge array of burgers, steak, ribs, chicken, and such; and Grumpy s Saloon and Eatery, 361 Mammoth Rd. (& 760/9348587), a massive log sports restaurant with 35 TVs, a great selection of beers on tap, barbecued ribs, and table games.

San Francisco is accessible via several major highways: U.S. 101 and Calif. 1 from the north and south; and I-80 and I-580 from the northeast and east, respectively. If you drive from Los Angeles, you can either take the longer coastal route along Calif. 1/U.S. 101 (437 miles, 11 hr.), or the inland route along I-5 to I-580 (389 miles, 61 hr.). From Mendocino, it s a little over 3 hours along

road maps Unless you re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or





In the Sir Francis Drake hotel, 432 Powell St. (at Sutter St.). & 415/395-8555. Reservations recommended. Breakfast $7 $10; main courses $12 $24 lunch and dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon Fri 7 10:30am; Sat Sun 8 10:30am; daily 11:30am 4pm and 5:15pm midnight. Cable car: Powell-Hyde line. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 30, 45, or 76.

Unless you re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow road maps fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States. If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) no longer allows airline passengers to pack syringes in their carry-on road maps baggage without documented proof of medical need. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you smuggling narcotics aboard a plane is a serious offense that carries severe penalties in the U.S.

San Diego. The city s urban park is decked out in holiday splendor for a weekend of evening events, including a candlelight procession, caroling and baroque music, craft displays, ethnic food, and hot cider. The event and the park s 13 museums are free these evenings. For more information, call & 619/ 239-0512 or visit www.balboapark. org. First weekend in December.

It s advisable to book several road maps months ahead for peak periods (summer, road maps weekends, and holidays) and to get the best rates. Since the splendid views depend on daylight, also consider it carefully before traveling during the shorter days of winter. For information and tickets, call Amtrak (& 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com).

usairways dividend miles MEXICAN While most restaurants gussy up their goods with high-priced decor and gimmicks, La Cumbre s





Santa Barbara 429 Southern California usairways dividend miles at a Glance 452 Santa Monica & the Beaches 460 L.A. s Westside & Beverly Hills 463 Hollywood 465 Downtown Los Angeles 466 Pasadena & Environs 468 Universal City & Burbank 541 L.A. s Beaches & Coastal

MEXICAN While most restaurants gussy up their goods with high-priced decor and gimmicks, La Cumbre s celebrity is the burrito. Craftily constructed usairways dividend miles with fresh pork, steak, chicken, or vegetables, plus cheese,.

San Francisco has always been lacking in the alfresco dining department. One exception, however, is Belden Place, an adorable brick alley in the heart of the Financial District closed to everything usairways dividend miles but foot traffic. When the weather is agreeable, usairways dividend miles the restaurants that line the alley break out the umbrellas, tables, and chairs a la Boulevard St-Michel and voil a bit of Paris just off Pine Street.

Julian: This old mining town in the Cuyamaca Mountains near San Diego has long been known for its wildflower usairways dividend miles fields, the apple harvest, and charming bed-and-breakfasts. Julian and the surrounding communities were shaken by forest fires in October 2003, but from a touring stand- point most of the community is back to normal. There s plenty of pioneer history here, including a local-history museum, an 1888 schoolhouse, and mining demonstrations. See Julian: Gold, Apple Pies & a Slice of Small-Town California in chapter 16.

annenberg beach house At press time, domestic postage rates were 23 for a postcard and 37 for a letter. For international





At press time, domestic postage rates were 23 for a postcard and 37 for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to one-half ounce costs 80 (60 to Canada and Mexico); a first-class postcard costs 70 (50 to Canada and Mexico); and a preprinted postal aerogramme costs 70.

In the Gold Country I ve added the Nevada City Inn, 760 Zion St. (& 800/977-8884), a charmer annenberg beach house with cabinlike rooms and a park setting with barbecues, picnic tables, and a horseshoe pit. If you can t afford the pricey Nevada City B&B experience, the simple, clean Holiday Lodge, annenberg beach house 1221 E. Main St. (& 800/742-7125), annenberg beach house has a pool, sauna, and even a 9-hole golf course across the street. In Grass Valley is the new 212 Bistro at the Holbrooke, 212 W. Main St. (& 530/ 273-1353), the most authentic and nostalgic restaurant in town serving mesquite-smoked prime rib and Cajun-rubbed steaks.

chattanooga has jobs The Bliss Bar Surprisingly trendy for sleepy family-oriented Noe Valley, this small, stylish, and fr





Ten 15 Get decked out and plan for a late night if you re headed to this party warehouse. Three levels, a full-color laser system, and a gigantic dance floor make for an extensive variety of dancing venues, complete with a 20- and 30something gyrating mass who live for the DJs pounding chattanooga has jobs house, disco, and acid- jazz music. Each night is a different club that attracts its own crowd, ranging from yuppie to hip-hop. A recent $1.5-million renovation added 6,000 square feet of dance floor and a VIP area. Call ahead for a complete chattanooga has jobs schedule of events.

The Bliss Bar Surprisingly trendy for sleepy family-oriented Noe Valley, this small, chattanooga has jobs stylish, and friendly bar is a great place to stop for a varied mix of locals, colorful cocktail concoctions, and a DJ spinning at the front window from 4 to 11pm 4 nights per week (call for days). If it s open, take your cocktail into the too-cool back Blue Room. And if you re on a budget or a roll, stop by from 4:30 to 7pm when martinis, lemon drops, cosmos, chattanooga has jobs watermelon cosmos, and apple martinis are $3. 4026 24th St. (between Noe and Castro chattanooga has jobs sts.). & 415/826-6200. www. blissbarsf.com.

In 2003 the TSA phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with e-tickets and without checked bags can still beat the ticket- counter lines by using electronic kiosks or even online check-in. chattanooga has jobs Ask your airline which alternatives are available, and if you re using a kiosk, bring the credit card you used to book the ticket. chattanooga has jobs If you re checking bags, you will still be able to use most airlines kiosks; call your airline for up-to-date information. Curbside check-in is a good way to avoid lines, chattanooga has jobs although a few airlines still ban curbside check-in entirely; call before you go.

If you re willing to give up some control over your flight details, use an opaque chattanooga has jobs fare service like Priceline (www.priceline.com; www.priceline. co.uk for Europeans) or Hotwire (www.hotwire.com). Both offer rock- bottom prices in exchange for travel on a mystery airline at a mysterious time of day, often with a mysterious change of planes en route. The mystery airlines are all major, well-known carriers chattanooga has jobs and the possibility of being sent from Philadelphia to San Francisco via Tampa is remote; the airlines routing computers have gotten a lot better chattanooga has jobs than they used to be. But your chances chattanooga has jobs of getting a 6am or 11pm flight are pretty high. Hotwire tells you flight chattanooga has jobs prices before you buy; Price- line usually has better deals than Hotwire, but you have to play their

hampton court palace Business Hours Offices are usually open weekdays from 9am to 5pm. Banks are open weekdays from 9am t





Although the San Francisco Oakland Bay Bridge is visually less appealing than the Golden Gate Bridge, it is in many ways more spectacular. Opened in 1936, before the Golden Gate, at 81 miles long it s one of the world s longest

Business Hours Offices are usually open weekdays from 9am to 5pm. Banks are open weekdays from 9am to 3pm or later and sometimes Saturday mornings. Stores typically open between 9 and 10am and close between 5 and 6pm from Monday through Saturday. Stores in shopping complexes or malls tend to stay open late: until about 9pm on weekdays hampton court palace and weekends, and many malls and larger hampton court palace department stores are open on Sundays.

Excursions depart from many locations, including Morro Bay (Virg s Landing, & 805/772-1222), Santa Barbara (The Condor, & 888/77WHALE or 805/963-3564), Ventura Harbor (Island Packers, & 805/6421393; www.islandpackers.com), and San Diego (San Diego Harbor Excursions, & 800/442-7847 or 619/234-4111, or Hornblower Cruises, & 800/ON-THE-BAY or 619/686-8715; www.hornblower.com). Also in San Diego, the Natural History Museum hampton court palace (& 619/255-0203; www. sdnhm.org) offers multi-day whale-watching trips to Baja California.

dry tortugas national park 1075 California St. (between Mason and Taylor sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/227-4683 or 415/





1075 California St. (between Mason and Taylor sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/227-4683 or 415/474-5400. Fax 415/474-6227. dry tortugas national park www.huntingtonhotel.com. 135 units. $315 $460 double; $490 $1,120 suite. Continental breakfast $14. Special packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $29. Cable car: California St. line (direct stop). Bus: 1. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; indoor heated pool (for ages 16 and up); health club; spa; steam room; sauna; concierge; dry tortugas national park massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, fax, dataport, kitchenette in some units, minibar, fridges in some units, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Sooner or later most visitors to Sausalito look up and wonder at the ornate mansion on the hill. It s part of Casa Madrona, a hideaway by the bay built in 1885 by a lumber baron. Successive dry tortugas national park renovations dry tortugas national park and extensions have added a rambling, dry tortugas national park New England style building to the hillside below the main house. Now a landmark, the hotel offers rooms, suites, and cottages, accessed by steep, landscaped pathways. The 16 freestanding dry tortugas national park units were recently gussied up with contemporary flavor, four-poster beds, and marble dry tortugas national park bathrooms. dry tortugas national park Other rooms in the mansion are decorated in a variety dry tortugas national park of styles; some have Jacuzzis and others have fireplaces. The newest rooms overlook the water with views of the San Francisco skyline dry tortugas national park and bay. The classy Poggio restaurant (see below) has been Sausalito s hottest new thing since its late-2003 opening. 801 Bridgeway, Sausalito, CA 94965. & 800/567-9524 or 415/332-0502. Fax 415/332-2537. www. casamadrona.com. 63 units. $255 $340 double; $430 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $20. Ferry: Walk across the street from the landing. From U.S. 101 north, take the 1st right after the Golden Gate Bridge (Alexander exit); Alexander becomes Bridgeway. Amenities: Restaurant; Jacuzzi; concierge; room service dry tortugas national park (breakfast and dinner); babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: TV, VCR upon availability, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, robes.

Explore the area at your leisure, or see Organized dry tortugas national park Tours, below if you d like to join a special-interest walking dry tortugas national park tour. FISHERMAN S WHARF & THE NORTHERN WATERFRONT Few cities in America are as adept at wholesaling their historical sites as San Francisco, which has converted Fisherman dry tortugas national park s Wharf into one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. Unless you come really early, you won t find any traces dry tortugas national park of the traditional waterfront dry tortugas national park life that once existed here; the only serious fishing going on is for tourist dollars. A fleet of fewer than 30 boats still operates from here, but basically Fisherman s Wharf has been converted into one long shopping mall stretching from Ghirardelli Square at the west end to PIER 39 at the east. Some love it, others can t get far enough away from it, but most agree that Fisherman s Wharf, for better or for worse, has to be seen at least once.

royal gorge train The San Francisco Visitor Information Center, Hallidie Plaza, 900 Market St. (at Powell St.), Lower





The San Francisco Visitor Information Center, Hallidie Plaza, 900 Market St. (at Powell St.), Lower Level, San Francisco, CA 94102 (& 415/283-0177; www.sfvisitor.org), is the best source for any kind of specialized information about the city. Even if you don t have a specific question, you may want to request the free Visitors Planning Guide and San Francisco Visitors.

Ojai Music Festival. This weekend event has been drawing world-class classical and jazz personalities to the open-air Libbey Bowl since 1947. Past events have featured Igor Stravinsky, Aaron Copland, and the Juilliard String Quartet. Seats (and local lodgings) fill up quickly; call & 805/646-2094 for more information, or log on to www.ojai royal gorge train festival.org. Early June.

disneyland paris King George Hotel Value Built in 1914 for the Panama-Pacific Exhibition, this delightful hotel has f





King George Hotel Value Built in 1914 for the Panama-Pacific Exhibition, this delightful hotel has fared well over the years, continuing to draw a mostly European clientele. The location surrounded by cable-car lines, the Theater District, Union Square, and dozens disneyland paris of restaurants is superb, and the rooms are surprisingly quiet for such a busy area. Though the very clean rooms can be small, a renovation in 1999 made the most of the space with new mattresses, desks, and a handsome studylike ambience. In 2002, new textiles were.

DRIVING RULES California law requires both drivers and passengers to wear seat belts. A law that took effect January 1, 2004, requires an approved safety seat for children under 6 or weighing less than 60 pounds. Motorcyclists must wear

walking directions caveat is that its Lombard Street location is usually congested with traffic, but nearby Chestnut an





Honor (see Museums, above) and an 18-hole municipal golf course. walking directions But the most dramatic features of the park are the 200-foot cliffs that overlook the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco Bay. Take bus no. 38 from Union Square to 33rd and Geary streets, and then transfer to bus no. 18 into the park.

caveat is that its Lombard Street location walking directions is usually congested with traffic, but nearby Chestnut and Union streets walking directions offer some of the best shopping and dining in the city. The adjoining pub serves evening drinks.