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JAPANESE/SUSHI In a town overflowing with seafood and pretentious taste buds, you d think it would be easier to find great sushi. But the truth is, finding an outstanding sushi restaurant in San Francisco great lakes airlines is more challenging than spotting a parking space in Nob Hill. Still, chop-sticking these fish-and-rice delicacies is one of the most joyous and adventurous ways to dine, and Kabuto, which moved across the street from its original location in 2003, is one of the best (and most expensive) places to do it. Chef Sachio Kojima, who presides over the small, crowded sushi bar, constructs each dish with smooth, lightning-fast movements known only to master chefs. If you re big on wasabi, ask for the stronger stuff Kojima serves on request. 5121 Geary Blvd. (at 16th Ave.). & 415/752-5652. Reservations not accepted. Sushi $3 $10; main courses $11 $18. MC, V. Thurs Sat and Mon Tues 11:30am 2:30pm and 5:30 11pm; Sun 11:30am great lakes airlines 2:30pm and 5:30 10pm. Bus: 2, 28, or 38.

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