hoover dam CITY STAIR-CLIMBING You don t need a StairMaster in San Francisco. The Filbert Street Steps, 377 of

CITY STAIR-CLIMBING You don t need a StairMaster in San Francisco. The Filbert Street Steps, 377 of them between Sansome Street hoover dam and Telegraph Hill, scale the eastern face of Telegraph Hill, from Sansome and Filbert past 19th-century cottages and lush gardens. Napier Lane, a wooden plank walkway, leads to Montgomery Street. Turn right and follow the path to the end of the cul-de-sac, where another stairway continues to Telegraph s panoramic summit.

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn t mean it ll work elsewhere in the country (thanks to our nation s fragmented cellphone system). It s a good bet that your phone will work in major cities. But take a look at your wireless company s coverage map on its website before heading out T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are particularly weak in rural areas. If you need to stay in touch at a destination where you know your phone won t work, rent a phone that does from InTouch USA (& 800/8727626; www.intouchglobal.com) or a rental-car location, but beware that you ll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.

Even without going inside the building, hoover dam this spot is one of San Francisco s most beautiful. Designed as a memorial to California s World War I casualties, the neoclassical structure is an exact replica of the Legion of Honor Palace in Paris, down to the inscription HONNEUR ET PATRIE above the portal. Reopened after a 2-year, $29-million renovation and upgrading project that was stalled by the discovery of almost 300 coffins, the museum s collection contains hoover dam paintings, sculpture, and decorative arts from Europe, as well as tapestries, prints, and drawings. The chronological display of more than 800 years of European art includes a collection of Rodin sculpture. The clincher: Grassy expanses and astounding views of the Golden Gate. In Lincoln Park (34th Ave. and Clement St.). & 415/750-3600, or 415/863-3330 (recorded information). www.thinker.org. Admission $8 adults, $6 seniors 65 and over, $5 youths 12 17, free for children under 12. Fees may be higher for special exhibitions. Free to all on Tues. Tues Sun 9:30am 5pm. Bus: 18 or 38.

When the Embarcadero Freeway was torn down after the Big One in 1989, one of the major benefactors was this hotel, whose backyard view went from a wall of cement to a view of the Bay Bridge (a bay-view room costs extra). Just off the Embarcadero at the edge of the Financial District, this former YMCA books a lot of corporate travelers, but anyone who prefers stylish, high-quality accommodations half-canopy beds, large armoires, writing desks, soundproof hoover dam windows and a lively scene will be content here. 165 Steuart St. (between Mission and Howard sts.), San Francisco, CA 94105. & 800/346-0555 or 415/882-1300. Fax 415/882-1313. www.harborcourthotel.com. 131 units. $165 $399 double. Continental breakfast $15. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking $32. Muni Metro: Embarcadero. Bus: 14, 32, or 80X. Pets accepted. hoover dam Amenities: Access to adjoining health club and large, heated indoor pool; courtesy car; room service (breakfast only); same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, fax, dataport, minibar, hoover dam hair dryer, iron, safe.