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SEAFOOD Without question, Aqua remains San Francisco s finest seafood restaurant. In 2003, heralded chef Laurent Manrique arrived from Campton Place to preside over the tasty traditions of previous chefs Michael Mina and George Marrone, and he continues to dazzle with a bewildering juxtaposition of earth and sea. The ahi (tuna) tartare my favorite all-time rendition, period is mixed tableside with pears, voyage pine nuts, quail egg, and spices. Sculptural grilled medallions of ahi tuna with foie gras in pinot sauce are beyond decadent. voyage Desserts voyage are equally impressive. The large dining room with high ceilings, one big floral arrangement, and otherwise stark decor can be seriously loud, but that doesn t stop power-lunchers from powwowing by day and well-dressed gourmands from feasting in style at night. Steep prices prevent most people from making a regular appearance, but for special occasions or billable lunches, Aqua is on my top-10 list. Keep in mind that there s no valet or street parking at lunch, so you ll have to pull into one of the Embarcadero lots 2 blocks away. 252 California St. (near Battery). & 415/956-9662. Reservations recommended. Main courses $29 $39; 5course tasting menu $90 or $100; vegetarian tasting menu $55. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon Fri 11:30am 2pm; Mon Sat 5:30 10:30pm; Sun 5:30 9:30pm. Bus: All Market St. buses.

California s allure is understandable. It really is warm and sunny most of the year, movie stars do abound in Los Angeles, and you can t swing a cat by its tail without hitting a rollerblading babe in Venice Beach. This part of the California mystique however exaggerated it may be does exist, and it s not hard to find.

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