lapland simple salad of giant white beans, egg, chives and marinated anchovies; and braised seafood and shel

Remarkably quiet, despite its convenient location near one of the busiest downtown corners, the eight-story hotel looks not unlike it did when it opened some 80 years ago. High-quality antiques collected during its decades of faithful service furnish the lobby and the individually decorated lapland rooms, all of which were completely lapland renovated in 2004 (think new paint and new furniture finishes). Tip: Request a room with a view of the backyard; they re the quietest. Complimentary wine is served in the small library each night, and afternoon lapland tea and cookies are a daily treat, as are the apples and hot beverages in the lobby. A breakfast room added in 2004 serves complimentary expanded continental lapland breakfast. 524 Sutter St. (at Powell St.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/227-3844 or 415/421-2865. Fax 415/3986345. lapland www.cartwrighthotel.com. 114 units. $89 $159 double; $139 $189 family/business suite (sleeps 4). Rates include 24-hr. tea, coffee, and apples in the lobby, lapland continental breakfast, nightly wine hour, weekday newspapers, and afternoon cookies. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $30; self-parking $22. Cable car: Powell- Hyde and Powell-Mason lines (direct stop). Bus: 2, 3, 4, 30, or 45. Amenities: Access to nearby lapland health club; concierge; pay-for-use Internet access. In room: TV, dataport, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, iron.

simple salad of giant white beans, egg, chives and marinated lapland anchovies; and braised seafood and shellfish stew with a sweet and savory red-pepper sauce. Do yourself a favor: Save room for orange lapland blossom beignets. Light and airy with a delicate and moist web of dough within and a kiss of orange essence, lapland it s dessert at its finest. Note: The wine list has a lovely and appropriately paired by-theglass and bottle selection, and there s a community table for drop-in diners.