trolley AMERICAN Lower Haight is not known for glamour, and that s just what makes this swank restaurant suc

3155 Scott St. (at Lombard St.), San Francisco, CA 94123. & 800/473-2846 or 415/922-3000. Fax 415/931-5784. www.edwardii.com. 32 units, 21 with bathroom. $83 $88 double with shared bathroom; $115 double with private bathroom; $185 $235 suite. Extra person $25. Rates include continental breakfast and evening sherry. AE, MC, V. Self-parking $12 a block away. Bus: 28, 30, 43, or 76. Amenities: Pub (open Fri Sat). In room: TV, hair dryer and iron available on request.

The Palace of Fine Arts, on Baker between Jefferson and Bay streets, is the only building to survive from the Pan-Pacific Exhibition of 1915. Constructed by Bernard Maybeck, it was rebuilt in concrete using molds taken from the original in the 1950s. It now houses trolley the Exploratorium (p. 118).

AMERICAN Lower Haight is not known for glamour, and that s just what makes this swank restaurant such a nice surprise. Beyond the full-length silver mesh curtain is a glitzy diversion that looks like it belongs in New York City rather than this funky hood. Warmly lit with dark-wood floors and tables, a full bar, and a lounge mezzanine, it s the perfect setting for the equally appealing Italian- and French-inspired American trolley tapas-style menu by chef Justine Miner, who sharpened her culinary skills and knives at San Francisco s Postrio, Caf Kati, and Globe. Anticipate appetizers such as ahi tuna tartare with waffle chips, quail egg, and microgreens; and caramelized-onion-and-wild-mushroom pizza with Fontina cheese and truffle oil. Entrees include porcini-crusted day-boat scallops on a pur e of artichokes with shiitake-mushroom ragout and a salad of mache greens and watermelon radishes with Meyer lemon vinaigrette; and pan roasted rib-eye steak with pancetta-wrapped trolley red Irish potatoes, wild nettles, Oakville ranch cabernet butter, and shaved black Himalayan truffles. 598 Haight St. (at Steiner St.). & 415/551-7900. www.rnmrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Small plates and pizza $7 $14; Main courses $12 $22. MC, V. Tues Wed 5 10pm; Thurs Sat 5 11pm. Closed Sun Mon. Bus: 7 or 22.