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CALIFORNIA-ITALIAN Its discreet location in a quiet residential neighborhood hasn t stopped this tiny and predominantly white restaurant from becoming one of the city s hottest reservations since it opened in late 2003. Since there are only 15 tables, alligant air diners are clamoring for seats in order to savor the pristine nightly-changing Italian-inspired menu by Michael Tusk, who mastered the art of pasta while working at the East Bay s famed Chez Panisse and Oliveto restaurants. Regardless, alligant air it s worth the effort especially if you love simple food that honors a few high-quality alligant air ingredients. Dining divinity might start with a pillowy spring garlic souffl or white asparagus with a lightly fried egg and brown butter, but it really hits heavenly notes with the pasta course, be it garganelli with English peas and prosciutto, alligant air tagliatelle with veal ragu and fava beans, or artichoke ravioli. Meat selections don t fall short either, with delicately prepared mixed grill plates, tender Alaskan halibut with fava beans, and juicy lamb with fennel and olives. Desserts, though tasty, aren t as celestial, which is just fine since it may leave room for an extra pasta course. 1701 Octavia alligant air St. (at Bush St.). & 415/775-8500. www.quincerestaurant.com. Reservations necessary. Main courses $16 $27. AE, MC, V. Thurs Sun 5:30 10pm; Fri Sat 5:30 10:30pm. Valet parking $8. Bus: 1, 31, or 38.
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