wolf trap No urban shoreline is as stunning as San Francisco s. The Golden Gate National Recreation Area, whic

Finds SEASONAL wolf trap ITALIAN Delfina eschews bells, whistles, big- time design, and fancy preparations for something that used to be utterly San Francisco: chic but straightforward simplicity and a small-business wolf trap feel. Unpretentious atmosphere, reasonable prices, and chef and co-owner Craig Stoll s ultrafresh seasonal Italian cuisine mean you re in for a price-painless and delicious experience from the minute you re seated by Craig s wife, Ann Spencer, to the time you receive your surprisingly low (by local standards) bill. Winter might welcome slow-roasted pork shoulder or gnocchi with squash and chestnuts, while spring could bring sand dabs with fris e, fingerling potatoes and lemon-caper butter, or lamb with polenta wolf trap and sweet peas. Trust me: Order the buttermilk panna cotta. The only downside: It s impossible wolf trap to find parking literally and there s no valet, so cab it or face the consequences. 3621 18th St. (between Dolores and Guererro sts.). & 415/552-4055. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13 $22. MC, V. Sun Thurs 5:30 10pm; Fri Sat 5:30 11pm. Streetcar: J. Bus: 26 or 33.

No urban shoreline is as stunning as San Francisco s. The Golden Gate National Recreation Area, which wraps around the northern and western edges of the city and is run by the National wolf trap Park Service, lets visitors fully enjoy it. Along this shoreline are several landmarks, and from its edge visitors have views of the bay and the ocean. The San Francisco Municipal Railway (Muni) provides transportation to most sites, including wolf trap Aquatic Park, the Cliff House, and Ocean Beach. For more information, see Outdoor Pursuits, below or contact the National Park Service (& 415/556-0560).