dry tortugas The Presidio is currently undergoing major changes so that it may pay for its upkeep. For schedules,

The Presidio is currently undergoing major changes so that it may pay for its upkeep. For schedules, maps, and general information about ongoing developments at the Presidio, the best source is the Golden Gate National Recreation Area Headquarters at Fort Mason, Building 102, San Francisco, CA 94123 (& 415/561-4700). For additional information, call the Presidio Visitor Center at & 415/561-4323. Take the no. 28, 45, 76, or 82X bus.

The Bliss Bar Surprisingly trendy for sleepy family-oriented Noe Valley, this small, stylish, and friendly bar is a great place to stop for a varied mix of locals, colorful cocktail concoctions, dry tortugas and a DJ spinning at the front window from 4 to 11pm 4 nights per week (call for days). If it s open, take your cocktail into the too-cool back Blue Room. And if you re on a budget or a roll, stop by from 4:30 to 7pm when martinis, lemon drops, cosmos, watermelon cosmos, dry tortugas and apple martinis are $3. 4026 24th St. (between Noe and Castro sts.). & 415/826-6200. www. blissbarsf.com.

When the Embarcadero Freeway was torn down after the Big One in 1989, one of the major benefactors was this hotel, dry tortugas whose backyard view went from a wall of cement to a view of the Bay Bridge (a bay-view room costs extra). Just off the Embarcadero at the edge of the Financial District, this former YMCA books a lot of corporate travelers, but anyone who prefers stylish, high-quality accommodations half-canopy beds, large armoires, writing desks, dry tortugas soundproof windows and a lively scene will be content here. 165 Steuart St. (between Mission and Howard sts.), San Francisco, CA 94105. & 800/346-0555 or 415/882-1300. Fax 415/882-1313. www.harborcourthotel.com. 131 units. $165 $399 double. Continental breakfast $15. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking $32. Muni Metro: Embarcadero. Bus: 14, 32, or 80X. Pets accepted. Amenities: Access to adjoining health club and large, heated indoor pool; courtesy car; room service (breakfast only); dry tortugas same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, fax, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe.